Ravenwoods

I saw a YouTube video about Subaru evap canisters and the guy said the dealer told him the canister’s maximum weight is 2.5 pounds and needs replacing when it exceeds the maximum weight. My check engine light for P1440 comes on a couple times a year and goes out by itself. It’s been doing this for four years. The car is a 1998 Forester with 271,000 miles on it and the light has been in for a week. Can anyone verify this about the weight? I weighed mine this morning and it was 3 pounds 3 ounces.

I watched a YouTube video about the Subaru evap canister and the guy said the dealer told him the maximum weight for a canister is 2.5 pounds. Apparently they accumulate weight over time and need replacement when they exceed a certain weight. So I took mine off this morning and weighed it. It is 3 pounds 3 ounces. Does anyone know if this is correct?

Thanks for the reply, Since it was towed behind an RV for 50,000 miles, I guess the engine may make it to 320,000. They don't use much salt up here so vehicles have little corrosion. They say at our low winter temperatures the salt is not effective. They spread lots of sand and small gravel at intersections. We also don't have any inspections so an intermittent Check Engine Light is not a problem. But their are those green diagnostic plugs under the dash on the drivers side. Maybe plugging those will help determine if it is the solenoid that is occasionally causing the fault?

Here is an update on our 1998 Forester—four years later. Mileage is now 271,414, compared to the 215,000 back then. I never did make any repairs and the Check Engine Light went off. It occasionally comes on a couple times a year for a couple days. So it came on again yesterday and I dropped by AutoZone to read the trouble code: the same old P1440. Car seems to still be running great and has been very reliable. Cosmetically it has suffered. One time my wife forgot to set the parking brake and it rolled down a slight hill and got some body damage. Another time someone else scrapped our right rear fender. The insurance company declared it totaled but we kept it. Another time my wife backed into my motorcycle and the rear door got a nice dent. No damage to my motorcycle thankfully! When we bought the car we were told it had been towed behind an RV for about 50,000 miles, so the engine actually has 50,000 less miles on it than what the odometer shows. Last time I checked it was still getting about 25 mpg on the highway.

It has been a week since I cleaned the EGR with carburetor cleaner and the Check Engine Light has not come on again.

Where are those? I’ll post again if the check engine light comes on again.

I cleaned it today with some carburetor cleaner. Now I’ll preemptively clean our 98 Forester’s EGR.

The Check Engine Light has been off most of the time and didn’t come on today. I got some carburetor cleaner and cleaned the EGR up this evening. Hopefully that will extend its life for a while. I might as well preemptively clean the EGR on our 98 Forester now.

Good news! Problem solved. The only thing wrong was missing fuses. Yesterday I checked to see if the fuses were burned out and discovered both ABS fuses were missing. I took the 20 amp fuse from the rear defroster since it has a broken connection but didn’t have a spare 10 amp fuse for the other slot. I got spares today and put one in. I started the car up and was delighted to see that the ABS light had not come on. Took it for a little test drive and the ABS is working beautifully on the fresh snow. Thanks everyone for your help.

Definitely no OBD2 port. It has the plugs under the dash you connect together and then the light flashes a code.

My daughter has 95 Impreza, EJ18 engine, 178,000 miles, and the check engine light code 56 flashed, which is for the EGR system. Is this something that one can just clean with good results or is it better to replace? Is there anything else in the EGR system we need to look at?

I got the right front sensor out after a struggle and cleaned it up. Didn’t look dirty. Worked on getting left front out but is even more stubborn. Put some PB blaster penetrating fluid on it and will try again in a few days. Took it out for a test drive without resetting battery and ABS light was still on.

I found the black connectors and it flashed five long and six short. So 56. What’s that mean for a 95 Impreza?

I didn’t find black connectors. I found green ones. Also one yellow one that doesn’t have a mate. No blinking ABS light. But the radiator fan turns on and off. Could the green ones be the correct plugs?

I just pulled it into the garage and checked the fuse. It was completely missing. Since the rear defroster is broken i took that fuse and put it in the ABS solenoid spot. The spot for the Cruise (ABS) spot is also empty but this car doesn’t have cruise control so maybe we don’t need a fuse there? I haven’t taken it out for a test drive yet to see if the ABS light has gone out.

I just pulled the Impreza into our warm garage. I saw a big yellow plug but no corresponding plug. Then I saw two green plugs and plugged them together. No blinking lights but the radiator fan turned on and off.

My daughter bought a 1995 Impreza (EJ18) with the ABS light on. Brakes work great. Now that winter is here I thought maybe we should see if we can fix the ABS. I know nothing about the ABS system, only that each wheel has a sensor. The car has 178,000 miles on it. How do you determine where the problem is?

Check engine light has gone off. Does the 95 Impreza store codes for a while?

Thanks. So there are plugs under the dash on the driver’s side that need connecting? Where is the ECU?

My daughter has a1995 Impreza with the EJ18 Engine and the check engine light came on. I don’t see a place to plug in a code reader. Where is it?

I didn't notice a milky appearance, just hints of rust on the outside.

Temperature was up to about -10 today instead of -45 when the oil leak happened. I drove the car about 50 miles today without a repeat. I suspect the pvc valve froze shut and pressure built up and forced oil out the dipstick. It may have been only a cup, but a cup of oil can make quit a mess. Anyway I replaced the pvc valve just now. The old one looked elderly. Does that scenario sound plausible?

So you think the seal around the dipstick may be leaking? No idea about age of pvc valve. My daughter got the car last August.

CV boots fine.

ouoi Oil cap present, leak from driver's side, not from cv boot, or transmission or differential. Looks like from valve cover area You mention passenger side cam seal. What about driver's side?