Ravenwoods
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Posts posted by Ravenwoods
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I cleaned it today with some carburetor cleaner. Now I’ll preemptively clean our 98 Forester’s EGR.
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The Check Engine Light has been off most of the time and didn’t come on today. I got some carburetor cleaner and cleaned the EGR up this evening. Hopefully that will extend its life for a while. I might as well preemptively clean the EGR on our 98 Forester now.
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Good news! Problem solved. The only thing wrong was missing fuses. Yesterday I checked to see if the fuses were burned out and discovered both ABS fuses were missing. I took the 20 amp fuse from the rear defroster since it has a broken connection but didn’t have a spare 10 amp fuse for the other slot. I got spares today and put one in. I started the car up and was delighted to see that the ABS light had not come on. Took it for a little test drive and the ABS is working beautifully on the fresh snow. Thanks everyone for your help.
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Definitely no OBD2 port. It has the plugs under the dash you connect together and then the light flashes a code.
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My daughter has 95 Impreza, EJ18 engine, 178,000 miles, and the check engine light code 56 flashed, which is for the EGR system.
Is this something that one can just clean with good results or is it better to replace?
Is there anything else in the EGR system we need to look at?
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I got the right front sensor out after a struggle and cleaned it up. Didn’t look dirty. Worked on getting left front out but is even more stubborn. Put some PB blaster penetrating fluid on it and will try again in a few days.
Took it out for a test drive without resetting battery and ABS light was still on.
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I found the black connectors and it flashed five long and six short. So 56. What’s that mean for a 95 Impreza?
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deosn't have one.
Subaru didn't start obd-ii until 96.
You need to find the pair of black connectors under the dash and plug those toghether, and then either the CEL or a LED in the ECU will flash codes in 10's and 1's (3 long pulse, 2 short = code 32)
I didn’t find black connectors. I found green ones. Also one yellow one that doesn’t have a mate. No blinking ABS light. But the radiator fan turns on and off. Could the green ones be the correct plugs?
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I just pulled it into the garage and checked the fuse. It was completely missing. Since the rear defroster is broken i took that fuse and put it in the ABS solenoid spot. The spot for the Cruise (ABS) spot is also empty but this car doesn’t have cruise control so maybe we don’t need a fuse there? I haven’t taken it out for a test drive yet to see if the ABS light has gone out.
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I just pulled the Impreza into our warm garage. I saw a big yellow plug but no corresponding plug. Then I saw two green plugs and plugged them together. No blinking lights but the radiator fan turned on and off.
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My daughter bought a 1995 Impreza (EJ18) with the ABS light on. Brakes work great.
Now that winter is here I thought maybe we should see if we can fix the ABS. I know nothing about the ABS system, only that each wheel has a sensor. The car has 178,000 miles on it.
How do you determine where the problem is?
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Check engine light has gone off. Does the 95 Impreza store codes for a while?
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Thanks. So there are plugs under the dash on the driver’s side that need connecting? Where is the ECU?
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My daughter has a1995 Impreza with the EJ18 Engine and the check engine light came on. I don’t see a place to plug in a code reader. Where is it?
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I didn't notice a milky appearance, just hints of rust on the outside.
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Temperature was up to about -10 today instead of -45 when the oil leak happened. I drove the car about 50 miles today without a repeat.
I suspect the pvc valve froze shut and pressure built up and forced oil out the dipstick. It may have been only a cup, but a cup of oil can make quit a mess. Anyway I replaced the pvc valve just now. The old one looked elderly.
Does that scenario sound plausible?
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So you think the seal around the dipstick may be leaking? No idea about age of pvc valve. My daughter got the car last August.
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CV boots fine.I would check the CV axle boot. If it's split it with throw grease everywhere, including on the exhaust. It's very thick grease so it doesn't drip like motor oil.
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ouoiOf course verify the source - ATF, front diff, engine oil, power steering...if it's definitely engine oil:
Oil cap missing
valve cover gasket
passengers side cam seal or cam cap oring - this will be coming from under the timing cover and blowing back everywhere.
Of course verify the source - ATF, front diff, engine oil, power steering...if it's definitely engine oil:
Oil cap missing
valve cover gasket
passengers side cam seal or cam cap oring - this will be coming from under the timing cover and blowing back everywhere.
Oil cap present, leak from driver's side, not from cv boot, or transmission or differential. Looks like from valve cover area
You mention passenger side cam seal. What about driver's side?
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Can you post a picture?
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There was a trail of oil drops on the snow all the way to garage door. Even after the engine had cooled the oil had not solidified like grease would. But I definitely will check the cv axle boot tomorrow like you suggested.
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Can you post a picture?
Not at the minute. I put it outside in -36 temperature and it is dark now. But when I started it up to take it out of the garage there was no leaking. Engine ran normally no sign of a leak anywhere, no oil dripping on the ground. Everything appeared normal. We changed the oil about 500 miles ago but did not overfill it.
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I drove my daughter's 1995 Impreza in -40 F weather today and after a few miles there was a very strong odor of oil. I got it home and in the heated garage. Oil every where on the left side of the engine. The engine oil level is down a bit, not more than 1/2 quart. This is a 1.8 liter engine I believe.
The engine didn't make any unusual noise. If it were a head gasket I think one might hear something or have less power. So maybe some other oil seal has failed like a valve cover seal?
Just wondering what people think might be the most likely cause?
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I'll have to look into an oil pan heater. The ones I've seen just stick to the oil pan, either by magnets or some adhesive I'm guessing. I never really paid much attention. Is this sufficent or should I put a little something extra on there to keep it on as I'd rather not attached and remove it every day as someone above had mentioned.
Also, the plugs at our building cycle on and off every 15 minutes (and we don't pay for electricity, though that's a bad excuse) so I hadn't ever looked into a timer. Would it be better for the car to cycle all night or cycle just for a couple hours in the morning? Temperatures here are right around -40c right now but can easily stay at -50c.
The oil pan heaters we have here in Fairbanks, Alaska are a thin sheet of rubber with heating elements embedded in it. A cord comes out of that. You just get some high temperature silicone sealant from the car parts store and clean off the bottom of your oil pan real good with some degreaser. Glue it on and they last forever. I've never had one go bad. That is best way to handle it.
If you have -40 right now and the power cycles on and off every fifteen minutes, I'd just plug it in before you go to bed. That would mean it would be on four hours and that is just about right at that temperature.
Here is a link at amazon to a 50 watt heater:
I don't remember what wattage I have on my vehicles, but 50 watt sounds about right. You can get much more powerful ones for large vehicles such as a big kenworth.
1995 Impreza EGR: clean or replace?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Where are those? I’ll post again if the check engine light comes on again.