Ravenwoods
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I have been getting an occasional P0125 code and after researching it yesterday it sounds like my ECT sensor is likely going bad. My MPG is down from last summer (about 24 MPG) and I assumed it was just winter weather. Its been running about 19-20 MPG but yesterday it was 15.21. We have been enjoying a nice cold snap in the negative 30s Fahrenheit so that would have some effect on MPG but it doesn't effect our 98 Forestor this much. I'm planning on dropping by Napa this afternoon to pick one up. Any suggestions on what Brand I should aim for? I notice there is also a Temperature Sender Switch. Is that the same thing?
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My 95 Legacy with AT has 191,000 miles. In cold weather (15 f or colder) it takes a mile or two for the transmission to shift up to the fourth gear. The colder the weather the longer it takes. This morning at -30 it took nearly 3 miles. Is this a sign of a transmission getting ready to fail? My daughter also has a 95 Legacy with AT. Her car has a AT pan heater. So maybe this is a common problem with the Legacy AT? I've been thinking I should get the heater for my Legacy too.
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I put the legacy in my heated garage after work yesterday and took off the brake booster line. But I did not catch the part where you said the valve is in the rubber hose rather than where the hose connects to the black contraption on the firewall. Anyway I sprayed some MAF cleaner in there and in the engine manifold, but not in the hose. Anyway, some of the MAF cleaner must have ended up in the hose since there were no braking problems this morning.
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I got them from Rock Auto, an online business. Are they considered reputable? Anyway, yesterday afternoon after work, my car had been plugged in for 8 hours. Standard winterization here is an engine oil heater and a block heater. Some cars also have a battery warmer and and heater for the Automatic Transmission fluid. So it started nicely at -38 F with no misfires. It had been plugged in for 4 hours before I started it yesterday morning. So it seems to like the 8 hours of plug-in time much better. So I plugged it in last night for about 8 hours. No misfires this morning. Also it has warmed up to a balmy -30.
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Here in Fairbanks, Alaska we are currently "enjoying" some cold weather down in the negative 30s. My 95 Legacy (AT) with 191,000 miles runs great when it is warmer that -30, but at this colder temperature the brakes frequently will act like the engine is off, and then suddenly be near normal. This does not seem to be normal even at this temperature. I have to press real hard and there is little braking. Fortunately no close calls yet. At warmer temperature when it is warmer than -20 it will do this first thing in the morning and then be normal the rest of the day. I'm also getting a misfire code for cylinder 2. A few weeks ago when we had our last cold snap I got a misfire code on cylinder 3. The plug wires looked old so I checked the resistance and one wire was real high so I put on new NGK wires. Last summer I put in new NGK plugs. At warmer temperatures I don't get this misfire. At 2500 rpm the misfire appears to go away but at idle it comes back.
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The manual for my 1995 Legacy L has a section called: ”Towing with front wheels raised off the ground.” It then says to “Never tow manual transmission AWD vehicles with the front wheels raised off the ground.” Then it says: ”If your vehicle is AWD with automatic transmission put a spare fuse inside the FWD connector located in the engine compartment and confirm that the Front-wheel drive warning light comes on. Release the parking brake and put the transmission in neutral. The Ignition switch should be in the ACC position while the vehicle is being towed.” Under using the spare tire section it doesn’t mention FWD at all.
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Three months ago I got a 95 Legacy wagon with AT, my first Subaru with AT. Now that I’ve finished fixing it up (new struts, new tires, timing belt kit, replaced most fluids, fixed hole in exhaust pipe, new climate control switch, replaced blower motor, new spark plugs) the car is running great with 188,000 miles. I looked in the manual to read instructions on the FWD option. It only mentions it in regards to towing the car. I had read on the web some places where people suggest you should use it if you have the spare tire on. Some people suggest it would be harmful to the car if you put it in FWD for the summer for improved fuel economy. So what is the truth about using the FWD option? It seems the manual would give explicit instructions about this if it could be detrimental to the differential.
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Well we took the car into a mechanic that specializes in Subarus to get this car sorted out. They said it was a weird interesting case. After a couple hours of labor they determined that it was an electrical problem. They surmise there is corrosion between the transmission and the engine causing a voltage drop. The ground cable from the battery goes to the transmission. So they put on a “bandaid” short ground cable from the transmission to the engine. My daughter reports the car is now behaving normally and appears ready her upcoming road trip from Fairbanks to Anchorage in about a week. Thanks everyone for the advice and suggestions on diagnosing this. I learned a lot more about working on our five elderly Subarus (95-98) as a result of this frustrating problem. It should help me in the future keeping them all going.
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Ok, I haven’t had time for a few weeks to try and sort this car out. My daughter has been using my spare car in the meantime. So today I started looking very closely at all the vacuum hoses to see if I missed something. The hose that goes to the PCV seems a bit loose on one end. Could an air leak there cause major misbehaving? If so it might be able to explain the intermittent nature of the problem. Maybe it seals there sometimes and then other times not.
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I replaced the belt and tensioner today with no improvement. I had already swapped out the MAF with a 95 AT Legacy which did not seem to help. So today I took a different MAF from a different 95 AT Legacy and neither car has any bad behaviors with the swapped MAF sensors. All the MAF Sensors have different numbers on them. Very strange how the problem suddenly disappears from time to time.
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We have four Legacies in our family (95-96). I picked up one recently as a backup car that I can fix up. It has a knock sensor trouble code so I pulled the knock sensor today and discovered it has a different connection than the other cars. A big connection just like our 98 Forester. I had ordered a replacement sensor and was going to put it in today. So are the connections not Standard? Should I get a knock sensor for a 98 Forester?