Ravenwoods
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Posts posted by Ravenwoods
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6 minutes ago, wtdash said:
No offense, but Why is normal operation a problem? It's working as designed so why add a pan heater?
My daughter's 95 Legacy has the AT warmer. In the 2-3 miles it take my car's AT to warm up the RPM is up to 3000 if I go faster than 50. I prefer it to shift into 4rth sooner and not waste gasoline.
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2 minutes ago, wtdash said:
Brrr, I say...BRRRR!
Cold's coming to our 'neck of the woods' but only 0°.
Oh yeah....CTS....there are TWO related parts. One is a 2 wire (?) connector for the ECU/ECM's use (the one you want) and the other is a one wire sensor (?) that tells the dash gauge how its doing. I've bought the NAPA part and it worked fine.
Usually, sometimes, not always, the car will start hard /run rough when the CTS is bad - not just poor MPG.
Do y'all put cardboard or some kind of shield in front of the radiator to 'keep it warm'?
Thanks! So my car starts normally and engine temperature comes up nicely and is normal. Just the code and the poor mpg are the symptoms. This sensor is the one under the Idle Air Control valve on passenger side of engine?
Some people (not many) put a piece of cardboard in front of their radiator. Those people might just need a new thermostat. Our cold snap is coming to an end this weekend. It was only -26 this morning at my house. Sunday expected high is -22 and Monday -7.
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Thanks for the information. I think I'll get a transmission pan heater to eliminate this problem.
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I have been getting an occasional P0125 code and after researching it yesterday it sounds like my ECT sensor is likely going bad. My MPG is down from last summer (about 24 MPG) and I assumed it was just winter weather. Its been running about 19-20 MPG but yesterday it was 15.21. We have been enjoying a nice cold snap in the negative 30s Fahrenheit so that would have some effect on MPG but it doesn't effect our 98 Forestor this much.
I'm planning on dropping by Napa this afternoon to pick one up. Any suggestions on what Brand I should aim for? I notice there is also a Temperature Sender Switch. Is that the same thing?
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My 95 Legacy was like this. I just cut out the flange and a local shop gave me a 6" scrap of new exhaust pipe that the Legacy pipe can slide into. Then I just welded everything together.
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My 95 Legacy with AT has 191,000 miles. In cold weather (15 f or colder) it takes a mile or two for the transmission to shift up to the fourth gear. The colder the weather the longer it takes. This morning at -30 it took nearly 3 miles. Is this a sign of a transmission getting ready to fail? My daughter also has a 95 Legacy with AT. Her car has a AT pan heater. So maybe this is a common problem with the Legacy AT? I've been thinking I should get the heater for my Legacy too.
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23 hours ago, Numbchux said:
Brake problem is a frozen check valve in the booster line. I've had it happen on most of my cars, and have had good luck cleaning it. Pull it off from the booster, and squirt some MAF or Carb cleaner in there, let it sit for a minute and then start the engine, and spray some more through there with the engine running.
"Correct" fix is to replace that booster hose.
As for your misfire. I'd throw a set of NGK Copper plugs at it, their cheap and easy for that engine...
I put the legacy in my heated garage after work yesterday and took off the brake booster line. But I did not catch the part where you said the valve is in the rubber hose rather than where the hose connects to the black contraption on the firewall. Anyway I sprayed some MAF cleaner in there and in the engine manifold, but not in the hose. Anyway, some of the MAF cleaner must have ended up in the hose since there were no braking problems this morning.
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17 hours ago, heartless said:
in light of the recent revelations about "fake" plugs, where did you buy your plugs from?
ebay or a proper parts store?
if from a proper parts store, they should be ok, but doesnt hurt to check them anyway.
if from ebay, they could be questionable.
I got them from Rock Auto, an online business. Are they considered reputable? Anyway, yesterday afternoon after work, my car had been plugged in for 8 hours. Standard winterization here is an engine oil heater and a block heater. Some cars also have a battery warmer and and heater for the Automatic Transmission fluid. So it started nicely at -38 F with no misfires. It had been plugged in for 4 hours before I started it yesterday morning. So it seems to like the 8 hours of plug-in time much better. So I plugged it in last night for about 8 hours. No misfires this morning. Also it has warmed up to a balmy -30.
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2 hours ago, Numbchux said:
No bleeding required, this can be done in about 3 minutes with just a pliers. It's in the rubber vacuum hose between the engine and brake booster (if you need more info, google some of those terms and all your questions are answered, this stuff is used on all gas engines with vacuum boosters).
Those sound like the right plugs. Are they fairly new?
Yes, installed in 2019.
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Thanks! I'm not sure where the check valve is or the booster line. Will this require bleeding the brakes? My plugs are the standared NGK plugs recommended for this engine (BKR6E-11). Are those the copper ones you suggested?
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Here in Fairbanks, Alaska we are currently "enjoying" some cold weather down in the negative 30s. My 95 Legacy (AT) with 191,000 miles runs great when it is warmer that -30, but at this colder temperature the brakes frequently will act like the engine is off, and then suddenly be near normal. This does not seem to be normal even at this temperature. I have to press real hard and there is little braking. Fortunately no close calls yet. At warmer temperature when it is warmer than -20 it will do this first thing in the morning and then be normal the rest of the day.
I'm also getting a misfire code for cylinder 2. A few weeks ago when we had our last cold snap I got a misfire code on cylinder 3. The plug wires looked old so I checked the resistance and one wire was real high so I put on new NGK wires. Last summer I put in new NGK plugs. At warmer temperatures I don't get this misfire. At 2500 rpm the misfire appears to go away but at idle it comes back.
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The manual for my 1995 Legacy L has a section called:
”Towing with front wheels raised off the ground.” It then says to “Never tow manual transmission AWD vehicles with the front wheels raised off the ground.”
Then it says:
”If your vehicle is AWD with automatic transmission put a spare fuse inside the FWD connector located in the engine compartment and confirm that the Front-wheel drive warning light comes on. Release the parking brake and put the transmission in neutral. The Ignition switch should be in the ACC position while the vehicle is being towed.”
Under using the spare tire section it doesn’t mention FWD at all.
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Three months ago I got a 95 Legacy wagon with AT, my first Subaru with AT. Now that I’ve finished fixing it up (new struts, new tires, timing belt kit, replaced most fluids, fixed hole in exhaust pipe, new climate control switch, replaced blower motor, new spark plugs) the car is running great with 188,000 miles.
I looked in the manual to read instructions on the FWD option. It only mentions it in regards to towing the car. I had read on the web some places where people suggest you should use it if you have the spare tire on. Some people suggest it would be harmful to the car if you put it in FWD for the summer for improved fuel economy.
So what is the truth about using the FWD option? It seems the manual would give explicit instructions about this if it could be detrimental to the differential.
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Well we took the car into a mechanic that specializes in Subarus to get this car sorted out. They said it was a weird interesting case. After a couple hours of labor they determined that it was an electrical problem. They surmise there is corrosion between the transmission and the engine causing a voltage drop. The ground cable from the battery goes to the transmission. So they put on a “bandaid” short ground cable from the transmission to the engine. My daughter reports the car is now behaving normally and appears ready her upcoming road trip from Fairbanks to Anchorage in about a week.
Thanks everyone for the advice and suggestions on diagnosing this. I learned a lot more about working on our five elderly Subarus (95-98) as a result of this frustrating problem. It should help me in the future keeping them all going.
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8 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:
No. The hose would have to present a much larger leak than a "bit loose" - it would have to effect fuel trims significantly to cause stalling.
GD
Okay thanks.
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Ok, I haven’t had time for a few weeks to try and sort this car out. My daughter has been using my spare car in the meantime.
So today I started looking very closely at all the vacuum hoses to see if I missed something. The hose that goes to the PCV seems a bit loose on one end. Could an air leak there cause major misbehaving? If so it might be able to explain the intermittent nature of the problem. Maybe it seals there sometimes and then other times not.
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What about a fuel pump relay? If the fuel pump relay is going bad where would I find it?
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1 hour ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Sounds like an intermittent electrical connection. Being in Alaska I would put my money on corrosion somewhere. Start wiggling wiring connections and harnesses with the engine running and see if you can replicate the issue. Sounds like it's related to the drivetrain shifting when driving at lower speeds and accelerating from a stop, etc since you say it rarely, if ever, does it on the highway.
Another potential is a dead spot in the TPS. Check it with a scope if you can.
Don't troubleshoot with the parts cannon.
GD
How do you go about checking the TPS? What kind of scope does one use?
I did a 6 mile test drive this morning and it drove perfectly. So I had my daughter pick it up and she said during a short drive it was not entirely symptom free.
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On 5/10/2019 at 10:54 AM, idosubaru said:
since it's intermittent i think you're guaranteed to find them lined up. what might be off is the tensioner - but if it's intermittent it's going to look fine when you look in there.
if you do go in there look at the tensioner that's the only part that could be failing intermittently - see if the hydraulic pin is wet or deformed in any way.
i've seen loose EJ tensioners (new style) and the drivers side belt will slop around while driving. you could leave the drivers side timing cover off (it's only 3 10mm botls and takes a couple minutes to remove, very easy) and try to look at it when the car has symptoms.
I replaced the belt and tensioner today with no improvement. I had already swapped out the MAF with a 95 AT Legacy which did not seem to help. So today I took a different MAF from a different 95 AT Legacy and neither car has any bad behaviors with the swapped MAF sensors. All the MAF Sensors have different numbers on them. Very strange how the problem suddenly disappears from time to time.
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On 5/11/2019 at 5:23 AM, el_freddo said:
Yeah we do!
(OBD1 EJ22 in my L series)
I’m now about to replace the CTS, and I’ve just replaced the O2 sensor since this film was made.
Cheers
Bennie
Our 96 Legacy starts well, not at all like this video.
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Swapping the ECUs only causes neither car to run. It seems the ECUs are different.
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4 minutes ago, Ravenwoods said:
I finally had a chance to swap the ECU from a 95 Legacy into the 96 Legacy. Our problem car, the 96 now doesn’t start at all. The 96 had the 8D ECU. The 95 has the 2D ECU.
Here is the 2D ECU
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On 5/10/2019 at 11:00 AM, idosubaru said:
you don't, not sure what they have in his country, but that is not an appropriate course of action for any 1990's US market Subaru.
swap sensors and carry on just like you did. the ECU has no idea what sensor is in there, there's no identifying data for a specific sensor.
you can swap ECU's (which thereby changes *all* the sensors) - plug in another ECU and drive immediately. which, since you have additional vehicles and an untraceable issue you could try. plug in another ECU and see what happens. model and EJ22 or EJ25 doesn't matter as long as they're all 1995-1998 legacy/outbacks/foresters - all the ECU's are plug and play interchangeable.
I finally had a chance to swap the ECU from a 95 Legacy into the 96 Legacy. Our problem car, the 96 now doesn’t start at all. The 96 had the 8D ECU. The 95 has the 2D ECU.
95 Legacy Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Last summer I occasionally got an O2 sensor code so I replaced the upstream O2 sensor and haven't had any more O2 sensor code errors.