Ravenwoods
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I’m in Alaska. The seller was too busy today for me to go over and jack the front up to see which cv is broken. She says Sunday morning will work for her. I told her what the problem most likely is and that it is an inexpensive repair in case she decided to keep it. She just wants it gone as she doesn’t have time to deal with it at the moment.
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I found a thread by japcs777 about a 96 Legacy with what sounds like the same problem. Title “Legacy makes clicking noise when driving and rolls in park.” Fairytax4me replied: “Putting the trans in park engages the parking pawl to the output shaft of the trans. This only locks the front pinion shaft from turning. The pinion shaft prevents the ring gear on the differential from turning, but it does not prevent the side gears inside the differential from turning. The axles are connected to the side gears. The side gears will rotate opposite of each other. (This is normal operation for a differential.) If one axle breaks, the axles can then rotate and the car can roll away. (The broken one will rotate the opposite direction of the wheel) The rear wheels are powered by a clutch set in the rear of the trans. The clutch set needs fluid pressure in order to engage. It only gets fluid pressure when the engine is running, and the transmission is in gear. When you start driving the clutch engages and the rear wheels will propel the car. When parked the clutch is free so no power can go to the rear wheels. This also means the rear wheels will not hold the car still when the trans is in park. Put a new axle in it and you'll be set.”
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I just had a look at this wagon with some sort of problem. The seller is asking $600. 243,000 miles, but they say the engine was rebuilt or replaced about 100,000 miles ago. The engine looks pretty clean so could be. A bit of rust on left rear fender, very little body damage. Struts need replacing. Tires low on tread. The car starts fine but Park doesn’t work. The car will roll forward in park. The car drives but there are some alarming clanks and noises, not typical of bad cv joints. None of the boots are torn. I only drove the car at 5 mph or slower. I only used Drive and reverse. The steering felt normal at five mph. The seller was hesitant to let me go faster but she can’t explain why. i couldn’t see anything in the car obviously wrong. It seems very odd that the transmission appears to work normally but park doesn’t. Anyway I told her if she didn’t get any higher offers I would give her $300. Maybe there is an easy fix? We already have Three Legacies in the family: two 95s and a 96. So it could serve as a parts car at a minimum. Any ideas or suggestions on what to look for as the cause of the problem?
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Two days ago I swapped out the MAF sensor and put in the sensor from my currently idle 95 Legacy. My daughter reports the car behaved much better but was not symptom free. Maybe there are two issues: 1. Failing MAF Sensor; 2. And something else. We got a used MAF sensor from the junkyard about five months ago for $50 and seems like it has already started to fail. Maybe it’s time to get a brand new one.
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I put in the MAF sensor last night from my new 95 Legacy and she said there were no issues on her trip home. But that was the initial result for the first trip when I borrowed the MAF from the 99 Outback. The second trip is when it started acting up again. Then I tested that sensor in our Forester for a short trip and it was fine. But I did not leave it in for additional trips. So I didn’t do a thorough job eliminating the MAF as the culprit.This time I’ll leave the MAF from the 95 Legacy in for as long as needed as I’m doing some work on it for the next few weeks.
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I weakened and bought the car for $800 as she did not want to budge and I was worried someone else would buy it. I think her high asking price scared everyone away so it worked to my advantage as it seems nobody else showed any interest as far as I know. I was wide awake before 4 this morning so I flushed the brake lines with new fluid and it seems I got air out of the system. One of the banjo bolts may be leaking but I will investigate that when I put on new struts. I’m not planning on driving it for about four weeks so I’m not in any hurry. The climate control is last on the schedule of repairs as I have about five months until colder weather arrives.
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We replaced the Idle Air Control Valve (with a used one) last November as we had been getting that Code from time to time and the engine would frequently stall when coming to a stop. Now it cuts out under power and when you take your foot off the accelerator the engine is normally still running. It really reminds me of when another of our cars had a bad MAF. But I did some swapping and testing of the MAF on another vehicle and that car ran fine. But this 96 can go on a short trip and be symptom free. So I’m guessing we can’t rule out the MAF. I just got a 95 Legacy yesterday that I won’t be using and I could put that MAF in for a day or two.
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I just looked at a 1995 Legacy L, AT, 187,000 miles. She was asking $2500, but I offered $500 and she has come down to $800. Problems: 1. Struts need immediate replacement. 2. Timing belt history unknown. She’s had it four years and an estimated 30,000 miles. We can assume it needs replacement with a full timing belt kit. 4. Tires in need of immediate replacement. 5. CV axles, one inner boot torn and one outer boot torn. So both should be replaced, but they aren’t clicking yet. 6. Brakes mushy and need pumping. Might just need bleeding. 7. Climate control switches non-functional. 8. Steering pulls slightly to the right. Might be the tires. 9. Steering shakes at 55. Maybe just an unbalanced tire? The body looks pretty good with only a bit of rust. In contrast we bought a 95 Legacy last month with 175,000 miles for $900 and a two sets of great tires on rims for summer and winter. We put about $500 worth of parts into it so far and is running great. Maybe it was a very good deal at $900? Maybe $800 is an ok price for this Legacy? What do you think?