Ravenwoods
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Posts posted by Ravenwoods
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I’m in Alaska. The seller was too busy today for me to go over and jack the front up to see which cv is broken. She says Sunday morning will work for her. I told her what the problem most likely is and that it is an inexpensive repair in case she decided to keep it. She just wants it gone as she doesn’t have time to deal with it at the moment.
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52 minutes ago, nvu said:
Check if there's a rollpin to punch out. If so it's a female axle and stubs on trans like pictured above, no oil spill.
I've only done CVs on Subarus from 95-98 and they all had rollpins. So I've never encountered anything else. I got the impression from 3Pin that this is an easy fix if it is the short axle stub. But el_freddo indicates it is much more involved.
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40 minutes ago, 3Pin said:
yup, it was the short stubby guy coming out of the trans. I hope it is just the cv for Ravenwoods.
So when you remove that short axle does a bunch of oil come out?
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I’ll be going out this evening to jack up the front and see which cv is broken. I’ve got an old cv ready to swap out.
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2 minutes ago, FerGloyale said:
It might work, but it's torture for the rear transfer plates. Might wear them substantially. or might destroy them and leave you unable to drive. Problem is the TCU tries to disengage the rear more and more the faster you go, so it will be slipping like crazy any speed above 20 mph or so. I suppose you could cut the wire to the transfer solenoid to go "full lock" mod and splice it back in or install a switch later.
I''d just take an axle, a breaker bar, and a 19mm socket, a 32mm socket and a roll pin punch and change it out before driving. Only take 30 mins or less to change.
Thanks for the very helpful advice.
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11 minutes ago, wtdash said:
My '96 AWD Auto would only do 35MPH w/the front right broken CV. YMMV.
If I buy it I only have to drive about six miles on a lightly traveled road to get it home.
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1 hour ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:
is it stick or auto trans?
some folks say the 5spd won't transfer enough power to the rear for safe driving on public roads???
Automatic transmission.
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On 12/29/2014 at 8:03 PM, Fairtax4me said:
Putting the trans in park engages the parking pawl to the output shaft of the trans. This only locks the front pinion shaft from turning. The pinion shaft prevents the ring gear on the differential from turning, but it does not prevent the side gears inside the differential from turning.
The axles are connected to the side gears. The side gears will rotate opposite of each other. (This is normal operation for a differential.) If one axle breaks, the axles can then rotate and the car can roll away. (The broken one will rotate the opposite direction of the wheel)
The rear wheels are powered by a clutch set in the rear of the trans. The clutch set needs fluid pressure in order to engage. It only gets fluid pressure when the engine is running, and the transmission is in gear. When you start driving the clutch engages and the rear wheels will propel the car. When parked the clutch is free so no power can go to the rear wheels. This also means the rear wheels will not hold the car still when the trans is in park.
Put a new axle in it and you'll be set.
I went to look at a 95 Legacy Wagon today that has the same symptoms. So if it is a broken front cv joint is it ok to drive it six miles? I might be able to get this car at a low price.
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I found a thread by japcs777 about a 96 Legacy with what sounds like the same problem. Title “Legacy makes clicking noise when driving and rolls in park.”
Fairytax4me replied:
“Putting the trans in park engages the parking pawl to the output shaft of the trans. This only locks the front pinion shaft from turning. The pinion shaft prevents the ring gear on the differential from turning, but it does not prevent the side gears inside the differential from turning.
The axles are connected to the side gears. The side gears will rotate opposite of each other. (This is normal operation for a differential.) If one axle breaks, the axles can then rotate and the car can roll away. (The broken one will rotate the opposite direction of the wheel)
The rear wheels are powered by a clutch set in the rear of the trans. The clutch set needs fluid pressure in order to engage. It only gets fluid pressure when the engine is running, and the transmission is in gear. When you start driving the clutch engages and the rear wheels will propel the car. When parked the clutch is free so no power can go to the rear wheels. This also means the rear wheels will not hold the car still when the trans is in park.
Put a new axle in it and you'll be set.”
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Do you have to pull the engine to get to the parking pawl?
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I just had a look at this wagon with some sort of problem. The seller is asking $600.
243,000 miles, but they say the engine was rebuilt or replaced about 100,000 miles ago. The engine looks pretty clean so could be.
A bit of rust on left rear fender, very little body damage.
Struts need replacing.
Tires low on tread.
The car starts fine but Park doesn’t work. The car will roll forward in park. The car drives but there are some alarming clanks and noises, not typical of bad cv joints. None of the boots are torn. I only drove the car at 5 mph or slower. I only used Drive and reverse. The steering felt normal at five mph. The seller was hesitant to let me go faster but she can’t explain why.
i couldn’t see anything in the car obviously wrong. It seems very odd that the transmission appears to work normally but park doesn’t.
Anyway I told her if she didn’t get any higher offers I would give her $300. Maybe there is an easy fix? We already have Three Legacies in the family: two 95s and a 96. So it could serve as a parts car at a minimum.
Any ideas or suggestions on what to look for as the cause of the problem?
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Two days ago I swapped out the MAF sensor and put in the sensor from my currently idle 95 Legacy. My daughter reports the car behaved much better but was not symptom free. Maybe there are two issues: 1. Failing MAF Sensor; 2. And something else. We got a used MAF sensor from the junkyard about five months ago for $50 and seems like it has already started to fail. Maybe it’s time to get a brand new one.
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We haven't tried anything in Reverse but we can give it a try. Where is the Crank Position sensor?
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16 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
When it cuts off - it restarts immediately?
There's no patterns (hills, cold start, highway, coasting...)?Test or swap the CTS?
What would the pro's do here - log data so they can see what happens just before it cuts off?
It doesn’t usually die. You take your foot off the accelerator and put the clutch in and it is idling.
No detectable pattern
What is CTS?
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21 hours ago, heartless said:
i can highly recommend the KYB mounts - used them myself on the 95 i had, on forester struts/springs.
I’m going to the junkyard to see if there are any struts and mounts still in decent shape for a very reasonable cost. Little bit short on money the moment and it’s not a big job changing them out in a year if necessary. Does the Forester use the same struts as the Legacy?
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2 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Swap the coolant temp sensor next
There are three coolant temp components - one triggers the radiator fans, one is for the dash gauge cluster engine temp, and one is for the ECU. Swap or replace the one for the ECU.
When it cuts out to you get any symptoms just before or around that time such as:
A. dash lights lighting up
B. drivability issues, engine getting weak
C. noisesOr it goes from perfect running to not at all instantaneously?
It goes from perfect to cutting out on all four cylinders instantly. So none of your ABC options.
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I put in the MAF sensor last night from my new 95 Legacy and she said there were no issues on her trip home. But that was the initial result for the first trip when I borrowed the MAF from the 99 Outback. The second trip is when it started acting up again. Then I tested that sensor in our Forester for a short trip and it was fine. But I did not leave it in for additional trips. So I didn’t do a thorough job eliminating the MAF as the culprit.This time I’ll leave the MAF from the 95 Legacy in for as long as needed as I’m doing some work on it for the next few weeks.
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On 4/14/2019 at 7:48 AM, biggman100 said:
$800 for a running, but needs work, Subaru of any year, in my opinion, is a steal, but, im also biased, because, anywhere within 200 miles of where i live, i cant find Subaru's with bad engines for less than $800-$1000. The first things i would look at are, in order, replacing the strut, fix the brakes, then alignment, then tires, then climate control. The reason i would choose that order is, the shaking is probably linked to the tires, but, if it pulls to the right, that is more likely alignment, which will ruin the new tires if not done, and, the mushy braking could cause an accident even with good tires. Cv axles, i would actually hold off on, at least for a few days, until you have actually driven it a bit, as they may only need new boots. The climate control, that could be a fuse or electrical problem though, or, it could just be a bad control unit.
The left strut mount has a broken bearing and the rollers are falling out. I imagine that could cause the slight pull to the right. One can get replacement bearings to tap in I suspect?
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13 minutes ago, heartless said:
I will have to do a bit of digging, but i "may" have a climate control unit hiding in the garage.. not sure if it is for a 95 or the earlier 90 model I had..
That would be great.
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On 4/14/2019 at 4:31 AM, lmdew said:
Go back with a list of parts costs. Show her what it will take to make it a good subaru again. $800 might be OK for AK. $500 would be better.
List of parts and $500 in cash and you might drive it away.
I weakened and bought the car for $800 as she did not want to budge and I was worried someone else would buy it. I think her high asking price scared everyone away so it worked to my advantage as it seems nobody else showed any interest as far as I know.
I was wide awake before 4 this morning so I flushed the brake lines with new fluid and it seems I got air out of the system. One of the banjo bolts may be leaking but I will investigate that when I put on new struts.
I’m not planning on driving it for about four weeks so I’m not in any hurry.
The climate control is last on the schedule of repairs as I have about five months until colder weather arrives.
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4 hours ago, idosubaru said:
96 does have misfire codes and is OBD - read the codes first. There could be pending codes.
Clean or swap the idle control motor/valve if it’s usually cutting out when you take your foot off the gas....coasting, idling, etc.
is it cutting out under load - while speeding up with foot on pedal or when coasting ?
We replaced the Idle Air Control Valve (with a used one) last November as we had been getting that Code from time to time and the engine would frequently stall when coming to a stop.
Now it cuts out under power and when you take your foot off the accelerator the engine is normally still running. It really reminds me of when another of our cars had a bad MAF. But I did some swapping and testing of the MAF on another vehicle and that car ran fine. But this 96 can go on a short trip and be symptom free. So I’m guessing we can’t rule out the MAF. I just got a 95 Legacy yesterday that I won’t be using and I could put that MAF in for a day or two.
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NGK plug, the recommended ones. We did get a misfire code on the previous plugs so we changed them. No more misfire codes.
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Plugs were replaced last September. Seems like plugs would cause a misfire code.
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I just looked at a 1995 Legacy L, AT, 187,000 miles. She was asking $2500, but I offered $500 and she has come down to $800.
Problems:
1. Struts need immediate replacement.
2. Timing belt history unknown. She’s had it four years and an estimated 30,000 miles. We can assume it needs replacement with a full timing belt kit.
4. Tires in need of immediate replacement.
5. CV axles, one inner boot torn and one outer boot torn. So both should be replaced, but they aren’t clicking yet.
6. Brakes mushy and need pumping. Might just need bleeding.
7. Climate control switches non-functional.
8. Steering pulls slightly to the right. Might be the tires.
9. Steering shakes at 55. Maybe just an unbalanced tire?
The body looks pretty good with only a bit of rust.
In contrast we bought a 95 Legacy last month with 175,000 miles for $900 and a two sets of great tires on rims for summer and winter. We put about $500 worth of parts into it so far and is running great. Maybe it was a very good deal at $900? Maybe $800 is an ok price for this Legacy? What do you think?
Failing fuel pump symptoms? 96 Legacy
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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We put in a different MAF for a week and initially it was much better— but then returned to the way it was previously. Then it can be problem free for a day or two.
Now we finally got a code for the coolant temperature sensor. Where do we find the one connected to the ECU?