Ravenwoods

I weakened and bought the car for $800 as she did not want to budge and I was worried someone else would buy it. I think her high asking price scared everyone away so it worked to my advantage as it seems nobody else showed any interest as far as I know. I was wide awake before 4 this morning so I flushed the brake lines with new fluid and it seems I got air out of the system. One of the banjo bolts may be leaking but I will investigate that when I put on new struts. I’m not planning on driving it for about four weeks so I’m not in any hurry. The climate control is last on the schedule of repairs as I have about five months until colder weather arrives.

We replaced the Idle Air Control Valve (with a used one) last November as we had been getting that Code from time to time and the engine would frequently stall when coming to a stop. Now it cuts out under power and when you take your foot off the accelerator the engine is normally still running. It really reminds me of when another of our cars had a bad MAF. But I did some swapping and testing of the MAF on another vehicle and that car ran fine. But this 96 can go on a short trip and be symptom free. So I’m guessing we can’t rule out the MAF. I just got a 95 Legacy yesterday that I won’t be using and I could put that MAF in for a day or two.

NGK plug, the recommended ones. We did get a misfire code on the previous plugs so we changed them. No more misfire codes.

Plugs were replaced last September. Seems like plugs would cause a misfire code.

I just looked at a 1995 Legacy L, AT, 187,000 miles. She was asking $2500, but I offered $500 and she has come down to $800. Problems: 1. Struts need immediate replacement. 2. Timing belt history unknown. She’s had it four years and an estimated 30,000 miles. We can assume it needs replacement with a full timing belt kit. 4. Tires in need of immediate replacement. 5. CV axles, one inner boot torn and one outer boot torn. So both should be replaced, but they aren’t clicking yet. 6. Brakes mushy and need pumping. Might just need bleeding. 7. Climate control switches non-functional. 8. Steering pulls slightly to the right. Might be the tires. 9. Steering shakes at 55. Maybe just an unbalanced tire? The body looks pretty good with only a bit of rust. In contrast we bought a 95 Legacy last month with 175,000 miles for $900 and a two sets of great tires on rims for summer and winter. We put about $500 worth of parts into it so far and is running great. Maybe it was a very good deal at $900? Maybe $800 is an ok price for this Legacy? What do you think?

Interesting. So can the 15” wheels fit on a 95 Legacy that has 14” rims? Someone is selling a 95 Legacy that I’m looking at. All the tires are bad and in need of immediate replacement. The guy with the 99 Outback is asking $400 for the car. The rims and tires alone are worth that.

It always starts well. The MAF Sensor from the parts car could be bad. I just test drove it again and compared to my daughter’s description of the symptoms she experiences I believe it is worse. I’ll try the MAF off our 98 Forester when it gets home.

2.2 liter, MT, 119,000 miles. No codes. It will run great for a day and now and then cut out intermittently. I borrowed a MAF sensor from a parts car and it did not solve the problem. I remember hearing that a Legacy fuel pump is prone to failure. Feels like sudden lack of fuel or suddenly no spark in all four cylinders. It’s my daughter’s car. It seems like it never or seldom happens at highway speeds.

I don’t think I’ll pull our Forester engine to put in this car. Our Forester is an S model with 16” rims and the Outback has 15” rims. So I don’t think we can use our Forester rims and tires on the Outback. We have two sets of tires and rims for the Forester (summer and winter tires) so it makes more economical sense to just keep using the Forester. We just got a new set of studless tires last autumn. They are asking $400 for the Outback and it has a decent set of rims and tires. It would be nice to get an engine into this Outback since the rest of the car looks nice.

Another option has just developed. Someone is selling an EJ22 out of a 94 Legacy wagon missing MAF sensor, crank and cam angle sensors. Also missing the intake manifold plenum. Will this go into the 99 Outback? He is asking $450.

It is 98 with DOHC. The Forester has 288,000 on the body. We have had it since 103,000 miles. A previous owner had it setup for towing behind an RV and it was reported to us that about 50,000 miles of 103,000 were towing miles. If that is true the engine only has about 235,000 miles. A year ago the radiator got a big hole in it and the engine overheated. But 10,000 miles later the engine is still going strong. So the 98 Forester is a manual transmission. And it will still work in the 99 outback with the automatic transmission?

We also have an old 98 Forester MT with lots of cosmetic challenges. Would it be possible to put this engine into the 99 Outback with its automatic transmission?

I’ve decided not to get it. I’ll leave it for some one who already has a Loyale and needs parts.

It needs a clutch apparently. It comes with a full set of winter and summer tires all on rims. That is what the higher price is for. The seller says he only drove it a few hundred miles before the clutch went out.

Ok, the seller was confused and it is an EJ25DAXEYL. Does that make a transfer impossible? The body looks great.

The contact person told me the 99 had a 2.2 (possibly mistaken) but sounds like FerGloyale and GeneralDisorder are saying it would have a 2.5. Is that correct?

There is a 1999 Legacy Outback that had a 2.2 and AT with looks like a decent body. My daughter has a 95 Legacy L with the 2.2 and AT, and the body is cosmetically challenged. Any reason why we can't put her engine in the 1999 Outback?

Here in Interior Alaska salt isn’t often used on the roads. They say it isn’t very effective under our conditions. So it depends how long it’s been here. Our 98 Forester has been here since about 2002-2003 with little Rust. My daughter’s 96 Legacy is even better. My youngest daughter’s 95 Legacy has been here ten years and was driven up from Minnesota and it does have some rust problems. So Interior Alaska can be a great place to get older Subarus. I’m not likely to get the Loyale after all. One can see some rust on the body. I’m looking more for a Legacy wagon with the EJ22.

I’m looking for a 90s Subaru in need of maintenance or repair and saw this one on Craigslist: ”burned clutch, engine runs fine, but does not drive1992 Subaru loyale manual 232k miles4wd with 2wd switch on the shifterVery well maintained, Service history availableHas studded tires onComes with a set of summer tires and 2 sparesReconstructed title(rear end damage).” This would be my first time pulling an engine, but I’ve done timing belts on the EJ18, EJ22, and EJ25, as well as struts and CV shafts. I am just wondering if it’s worth it. I’m guessing he will take much less than he is asking as it has been advertised for quite a while. Someone indicated this has the EA82 engine which is inferior to the EA81.

I'm looking for a commuter car that needs some work done on it that I can do myself. What is the EA series and the EA engine? What are NLA part?

I’m curious about possible buying something like this available on Craigslist: ”burned clutch, engine runs fine, but does not drive1992 Subaru loyale manual 232k miles 4wd with 2wd switch on the shifterVery well maintained, Service history availableHas studded tires onComes with a set of summer tires and 2 sparesReconstructed title(rear end damage)” He is asking $699 and it has been on Craigslist for a long time. I’m assuming pulling this engine would be straight forward. But I’ve never pulled an engine before or done a clutch. Any advice on if there is any thing I should beware of? I may get him to come down on the price since it has been advertised so long.

That is what our local DMV told me. The owner comes in and pays only $15 for a new title. It is possible the car was totaled by an insurance company and the owner decided to keep it, but never got the new reconstructed title.

Thanks for all the great advice. The seller is a miserable communicator. The advert says the title is missing and he hasn’t responded to requests for the VIN and why the title is missing. His last email was that he would accept $150 and said I can come and get it, but did not give an address. Maybe the vehicle is stolen.

Are there any differences in the engine?