Ravenwoods
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Posts posted by Ravenwoods
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I’m getting ready to replace timing belt and water pump etc so I’m planning on a new thermostat too.
The local car parts stores have ones that are 170 or 172 F.
We are in Fairbanks Alaska where the winters are long and cold. Can we get a thermostat with a higher temperature such as 180 or 185?
When I look at the live data from our 98 Forester it seems the engine temperature is in the 180-185 range if I remember correctly.
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The misbehavior returned. I got a used MAF for $50 and no more misbehavior.
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20 minutes ago, mikec03 said:
You didn't mention that you had gotten the idle control valve sensor code! Of course when you get that code, it's a no brainer to replace it. I had that failure on a 97 where it would hesitate and nearly stall in traffic. Yes, the adjustment is critical. It doesn't require the use of the "subaru select monitor" but it did require sticking pins through the wires of the sensor so that the voltage could be measured. Use the search engine to find the procedure.
And cleaning the throttle body in place isn't totally effective as SSI implied. Maybe it would work and maybe not. You can't be sure. But if you got the code, then fix the ICV sensor.
Thanks! I’ll see about finding the instructions on adjusting the Idle Air Control Valve. My daughter reported last night the car hasn’t misbehaved since I replaced the Idle Air Control Valve. The car runs normally. What happens by not checking to see if the voltage is correct? Maybe just not get optimum performance from the engine?
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9 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Remove and clean the throttle body. Idle issues are more often a result of the idle control being driven to its limits by a throttle body that is inconsistent, dirty, and isn't contributing consistent airflow at idle. Causing the computer to send max idle pulse widths, etc and it is unable to compensate for changing idle loads when it's already at it's limit.
GD
I did clean the Throttle body a few months ago, but did not remove it.
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30 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:
What symptoms were you trying to solve? You never mentioned.....
Hesitation and jerking during acceleration, engine stalling.
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Here is an update on the car. Since last Thursday there have been only intermittent problems with the car. I did spray MAF cleaner on the sensor but it already looked clean. Also since then the CEL has been off, but it was never on for the MAF sensor. It did come on from time to time for the Idle Air Control Valve. We bought a used Idle Air Control on eBay for $80 and I just installed it now. I took the car for a test drive and did not notice any problems.
The old Idle Air Control Valve was part 22650 AA033 and the Subaru dealer told the updated part number is 22650 AA034 so I got that one.
It looks like top part can be turned to make adjustments. Does anyone know anything about that? There are two little screws one can loosen like on the Throttle Position Sensor. I’ve attached a picture.
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24 minutes ago, wtdash said:
'92-'98 ('99 SUS/GT/OB) 2..2 (NA) and 2.5 are all compatible....Green Label versions...AUTECS (USA) and JECS (japan).
So are you saying the MAF for a 98 Forester with the EJ25 engine is the same as in the EJ22? If so, I can swap out the MAF from our 98 Forester and see what happens.
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Just now, idosubaru said:
Anecdotal, but I had a 1996 legacy a few years ago with a bad MAF and no codes. Swap MAF, all good.
You probably know this but knock sensors are routinely problematic on those as well. I've installed a ton of $6 ebay specials with no issues.
Pull the sensor and the bottom is usually corroded/cracked. Usually you get a code obviously.I assume there's no check engine light or pending codes if read?
She is bringing the car over this afternoon and I'll plug in the code reader.
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My daughter's 1996 Legacy with 116,000 miles on it is giving symptoms reminding me of our Forestor when the MAF was bad about 14 years ago. At that time I just dropped it off at the mechanic and they replaced the MAF.
I have a Code reader that provides freeze frame data and live data. Any suggestions on what I should look for in this data to determine if it is the MAF?
I'm thinking of getting some MAF sensor cleaner, but from the severity of the symptoms probably the MAF is already dead.
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I drove it today for a bit after changing out a CV Axle and replacing the engine block heater. I personally felt it was operating normally, but I didn’t go over 35 mph.
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My daughter has a 96 Legacy Brighton with the EJ22 engine and manual transmission. It has 116,000 miles on it.
I took the Throttle Position Sensor off unaware it has to be adjusted when you put it back on.
The car is still running fine but she says it is slower to accelerate.
I looked in YouTube for some instructional videos but didn’t find one specific to the EJ22 engine.
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Our local Subaru dealer has the block heater for $40 versus one of the car parts stores at about $55.
We should get installed this week sometime.
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Sounds great. We actually need to replace the one already there since it no longer works.
It looks like is is near the water pump. Is that correct? What tools do we need?
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We need to put in an engine block heater in a 2.2 liter in a 96 Legacy. Is that an easy job?
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That is the part we replaced. It is AWD. I’d have to verify the ABS.
I looked at your website. Our speedometer is functioning normally. So maybe there is a poor connection that breaks contact for an instant?
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My daughter has a 96 Legacy 2.2 manual transmission and the code P500 comes on every couple miles. It has 115,000 miles on it. I’ve been erasing the code every time it occurs. We replaced the Vehicle speed sensor but it didn’t help. According to the freeze frame data it usually occurs at about 2500-2600 RPM.
Do the ABS wheel sensors have any relationship to the VSS?
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So you think the MAF could be bad? It starts easily, runs great. I googled bad MAF symptoms and they don’t match this car.
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My daughter’s 1996 Legacy 2.2 (112,000 miles) with manual transmission has these 2 codes. The engine dies occasionally. Previously it died quite frequently so I cleaned the throttle body. That vastly reduced the problem.
We are just wondering what you recommend?
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This is an update on our overheated engine 500 miles later.
It is still running terrific. No indication of the head gaskets leaking, no rod knock yet.
My wife doesn’t believe me when I tell her the engine is going to be finished in a couple thousand miles. I can already see her planning her next long distance trip from Fairbanks to Anchorage and back.
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Shame it's a 2wd as previously mentioned. AWD in the snow = awesome.
Still, sounds like a good deal in your area!
It's like the ea81 - keep the oil and coolant up and she'll be sweet. One exception is that you keep a good quality cam belt kit on it at the appropriate intervals
Any pics of the beast?
Cheers
Bennie
It is an AWD. Not sure where you saw 2wd.
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What about the NGK iridium or platinum plugs?
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Is Fairbanks far enough north to have periods of no daylight? Or is it just really short (or really long) daylight! I remember being in Anchorage in the summer and the sun was still out at like 1130pm
We are a few hundred miles south of the Arctic circle so on December 21 the sun rises about 11am and sets about 2:40pm. But the sun rises and sets slowly so it starts getting light at least 90 minutes before actual sunrise and stays light for the same amount after sunset. So it isn’t as dark as you imagine.
Never gets dark in the summer.
During equinoxes we can gain or loose 7 minutes of daylight daily. So it changes really fast.
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Higher cost than the lower 48 but... a one owner car , extra rims & tires , and you will never have to worry if the timing belt breaks! Don't wait somebody else that knows Subaru's will snap it up.
A local aircraft mechanic once told me that here in Interior Alaska, a Subaru that can move on its own is already worth $1000.
Thermostat Replacement for 1995 EJ22
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Sounds like I’ll get a Subaru thermostat!