Ravenwoods
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Posts posted by Ravenwoods
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Your 80$ timing set is more dangerous to the engine than anything else. If it is a dohc and heating up , just give it new head gaskets (Subaru only !!!) If you do that then give it an oe timing set and your good to go.
I sent an inquiry to the eBay seller and here is his reply:
“Thanks for the inquiry. This product is our own in house brand and is manufactured specially for us from our suppliers in Japan, China and Taiwan.
If quality is your concern, we have sold hundreds of this item and our customers are generally happy with the quality of our products. They are expected to match OEM specifications. ”
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It is a DOHC. When my wife got home last night I checked the coolant reservoir tank to see if it had overflowed and it was almost empty. The oil is still black. I told her not to fill up the gas tank but only to put in a few gallons as we could expect head gasket failure at any time.
What is the most dangerous thing about the Chinese timing kit? The belt or the pulleys?
There is another thing I didn’t mention about the car’s history. It is setup to be towed behind an RV and the story is that a previous owner towed it around North America for about 50,000 miles. So even though the odometer reads 277,000 the engine may have about 50,000 less.
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The oil is still black so it doesn’t seem oil is getting into the coolant. My wife took the car to town so I am very curious to see if signs of head gasket failure have shown up yet.
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I’ll change the oil as it’s about time for that anyway.
So if the head gaskets start leaking would you say not to put any more money into the engine at its mileage?
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Our 98 Forester S with 277,000 miles sprang a nasty radiator leak. My wife neglected to mention she noticed puddles on the ground. She also didn’t notice the temperature gauge was full hot. She arrived home last week with the thing steaming. It looks like there was no more coolant but the engine didn’t seize.
I was thinking maybe the engine was partially ruined but I got a used radiator from Interior Auto Salvage here in Fairbanks Alaska and put on a new water pump. While i was at it I got the cheapest possible timing belt kit on EBay for $82. That’s with new pulleys and belt tensioner. No doubt Low quality stuff from China. The belt didn’t even have marks on it. But I’m hesitant to put much money into a higher mileage engine.
I got it back together today and no coolant leaks and the engine runs great. Apparently I got the timing right. Also no blue smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. The engine is much quieter with its new cheap Chinese timing pulleys.
So I was hesitant to put much money into it not knowing exactly if the engine had been damaged by no coolant. What would you have done? Any suggestions on what to expect after this overheating event? The
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"Or, save yourself the time, and buy a remanufactured semi-loaded caliper. The NAPA Eclipse brand ones are a premium BBB reman, and (here anyway) are competitively priced to the unpainted competition from BBB or Cardone. "
I think I'll recommend this to my daughter. The Eclipse semi-loaded caliper you mention is $54.69 at our local Napa. A new rotor is about $36 (saw one for $26 too).
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The caliper pins appear to be well greased and slide easily. The steering feels tight while driving. Tires are almost new. The bearing does not appear to allow any place and is quiet. The alignment seems fine as the car does not pull to the left or right.
I did notice that one of the brake pads appears thinner than the other. I believe it was the outside pad. I swapped them.
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Actually the caliper piston was already fully pressed in. It is as if the brake pads are too thick. It looks like the previous owner replaced them at the same time he put in new cv joints. I had my daughter push on the brake pedal to see if the caliper piston would move and it did and I was able to press the piston back in fully.
I find it interesting I don’t notice any of that hot brake smell one normally notices after you come down a long steep hill. Does that not happen with ceramic brake pads?
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My daughter’s 95 Impreza with 182,000 miles, has a slight shake in the steering wheel. The breaks don’t pulse like one gets warped rotors. So I assumed a bad wheel bearing. One could feel the right wheel was hot after driving. I took it apart tonight but the bearing appeared fine so I put it back together.
The only problem I had was getting the brake assembly stuff to fit over the break pads. I couldn’t depress the cup thing that actuates the brakes so I left off those two anti vibration shims. Seems like it is too tight. She’s had the car for 10,000 miles and we didn’t replace the pads at all.
So I got it all back together and test drove it. It seems like the slight shaking in the steering only starts after a few miles. This time I felt the right rotor with my fingers and it was too hot too touch after driving six miles with minimal breaking. Left rotor was only warm.
So should we assume that right one is warped even though there is no pulsing when applying breaks? Any recommendations one what to do?
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anyone know what symptoms bad engine/trans mounts give?
interesting it does it loaded while decelerating but not loaded while accelerating - the trans is loaded in both scenarios.
check engine and trans mounts first - i've had them come apart when removed multiple times, if they're in even worse condition then i'd expect symptoms.
Whats the best way to check engine and transmission mounts? Hold the car with your foot on the brake and let clutch out a bit while an observer watches to see if the engine moves?
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does it make the noise sitting still idling in N ? Or, can you rev in N and get the noise?
If so, when the noise is happening in N, does it stop if she depresses the clutch pedal?
It only makes the noise while decelerating, or going down a hill and using the engine as a brake, mostly while going down a hill using the engine as a brake.
It never makes the noise while idling in neutral. We cannot make the noise just by revving the engine.
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input shaft bearing? symptoms don't match too well but ???
no FWD fuse on manual trans.
So there isn't an easy way to change the car to a FWD?
Is the input shaft bearing in the clutch? The clutch itself feels very healthy.
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1. can you tell if it's front, center rear, or left, center, right on the vehicle?
2. Are there any vibrations physically - floor board, steering wheel, rear view mirror - when the noise occurs?
post a link - make it just the address with no hyperlink or www if needed
how sure are you it's identical to yours? i hear people say "it's like this..." frequently and the only similarity is that a noise is being made.
It is real hard to tell where the noise is coming from. No vibrations in steering wheel, floorboards, or mirrors. I would say the noise is very similar. My guess is that it is the same thing but that our noise is more severe. My daughter just puts the clutch in or puts the transmission in neutral to avoid it. We figure that probably helps preventing it from getting worse. I'm planning on getting a FWD fuse to put in that fuse slot to see if it still makes the noise when it runs only on FWD.
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Someone posted a video on Youtube with audio of what I believe to be the same noise. Here is the link:
Even though I include the link it doesn't show up after I post it. The title of the youtube video is "Subaru transmission rattle on deceleration." It's 22 seconds long.
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Better description:
Did you check diff/trans fluid? What did you find?
Has it ever been changed?
Does it have an aftermarket front axle?
Left/right or center or unsure?
Noise - one time clunk, continuous, high pitch or low....turning heads loud or no one else can hear- it annoys OCD people loud?
How about when accelerating fast from a start- does it do it? Or accelerating up a steep grade?
Loaded noises while accelerating or decelerating are often front diff or inner
We changed the rear differential oil and the transmission fluid. I didn't see any metal pieces in the oil. The previous owner did put on new front axles and we don't know if they are aftermarket or not. I found a video on Youtube with what I believe to be the same noise. I'll post a link to it in a little bit. It never does it while accelerating.
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My daughter has a 1995 Impreza (EJ18) with a manual transmission.
When she lets up on the accelerator or is going down a hill a noise occurs. I made a feeble attempt to push the driveshaft around to see if a bearing has obvious play but didn’t find anything obvious. I did this 6-12 months ago, so we haven’t considered this an urgent matter and it doesn’t seem to be getting worse.
Now that I’ll have some time off for the holidays this might be a nice little project.
From the symptoms I’ve described is the driveshaft the likely source? The car has 178,000 miles on it.
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Yep, it does cycle the purge valve open and closed. I blew through it and it definitely closes. But that doesn’t necessarily mean that it doesn’t need replacing?
Even though the computer doesn’t weigh the canister, is it supposed to be replaced when it exceeds a certain weight?
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So I can plug in those green plugs under the dash on the drivers side to see if it closes the valve?
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If there were pinholes in the filler neck wouldn’t we loose vacuum in the fuel tank. When I remove the gas cap there is plenty of vacuum.
We don’t get much vehicle corrosion here in interior Alaska since they use very little salt on the roads. Also we have a fine dry power snow instead of heavy wet snow.
The hoses to the canister and purge valve appear to be solid.
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I saw a YouTube video about Subaru evap canisters and the guy said the dealer told him the canister’s maximum weight is 2.5 pounds and needs replacing when it exceeds the maximum weight. My check engine light for P1440 comes on a couple times a year and goes out by itself. It’s been doing this for four years. The car is a 1998 Forester with 271,000 miles on it and the light has been in for a week.
Can anyone verify this about the weight? I weighed mine this morning and it was 3 pounds 3 ounces.
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I watched a YouTube video about the Subaru evap canister and the guy said the dealer told him the maximum weight for a canister is 2.5 pounds. Apparently they accumulate weight over time and need replacement when they exceed a certain weight. So I took mine off this morning and weighed it. It is 3 pounds 3 ounces. Does anyone know if this is correct?
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I think it's very unusual that with the 2.5 engine that you have exceeded 270K miles. Congratulations. And in Fairbanks too. Don't they use salt up there?
i'm not sure the forester is exactly the same, but on the 97 legacy wagon, the P0440, I think usually means that the purge valve has failed and it is located above the canister behind the passenger rear wheel. But if the light it keeps going off, why bother fixing it. In a lot of the states, however, the check engine light prevents getting new registration so it's a problem that needs fixing immediately.
Get that car over 300K and you will lot's of admiration on this site.
Thanks for the reply, Since it was towed behind an RV for 50,000 miles, I guess the engine may make it to 320,000.
They don't use much salt up here so vehicles have little corrosion. They say at our low winter temperatures the salt is not effective. They spread lots of sand and small gravel at intersections.
We also don't have any inspections so an intermittent Check Engine Light is not a problem.
But their are those green diagnostic plugs under the dash on the drivers side. Maybe plugging those will help determine if it is the solenoid that is occasionally causing the fault?
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Here is an update on our 1998 Forester—four years later. Mileage is now 271,414, compared to the 215,000 back then.
I never did make any repairs and the Check Engine Light went off. It occasionally comes on a couple times a year for a couple days. So it came on again yesterday and I dropped by AutoZone to read the trouble code: the same old P1440.
Car seems to still be running great and has been very reliable. Cosmetically it has suffered. One time my wife forgot to set the parking brake and it rolled down a slight hill and got some body damage. Another time someone else scrapped our right rear fender. The insurance company declared it totaled but we kept it. Another time my wife backed into my motorcycle and the rear door got a nice dent. No damage to my motorcycle thankfully!
When we bought the car we were told it had been towed behind an RV for about 50,000 miles, so the engine actually has 50,000 less miles on it than what the odometer shows.
Last time I checked it was still getting about 25 mpg on the highway.
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It doesn't need cleaning - it needs either the solenoid or the backpressure transducer replaced most likely.
GD
It has been a week since I cleaned the EGR with carburetor cleaner and the Check Engine Light has not come on again.
Near Death Experience for EJ25 Engine
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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So are we talking about the connecting rod from the crankshaft to the piston? So does the bearing fail? What is the rod knocking? Extra play in a bearing?
Anyway I’m looking forward to the outcome in the next few thousand miles. Two years ago someone sideswiped the car causing cosmetic damage and the insurance company totaled it and we have a reconstructed title now. So the car doesn’t have much value. Yet here in Fairbanks Alaska elderly well used Subarus still fetch a decent price. My 19 year old daughter searched hard and ended up spending $1000 on a 1995 Impreza with huge cosmetic defects.