Mdarius

Final conclusion: While yes, the leaking oil filter on the transmission was a problem, the ultimate solution to the P1719 code....... ....... ......wait for it...... .....Replace the negative battery cable. Yup. That's it. The cable was corroded and messing with things.

I just took it in for an oil change. ''Looks like an oil filter. Fits like an oil filter. Hmm. Must be an oil filter!'' Dweeb didn't clue in that the OIL WAS RED!!!!!

In case this isn't already common knowledge, the dealership informed me today that lube shops often mistake the transmission filter for the oil filter. The oil filter fits, and they put the $4 oil filter on instead of the $40 transmission filter. In my case they crimped the filter housing, resulting in a hole, that drained my transmission. The car didn't start complaining until late in the game, still waiting to see what kind of damage was done. Just a heads up if you don't do your own LOF changes. Is it REALLY cheaper or the same cost to take it down the street to Jiffy Lube? My $350 and counting says no. (2005 Legacy) Codes: P0700 and P1709 Symptoms: Slow to shift in to gear, shifting like your riding the clutch, but it's an automatic, dies when coming to a stop sometimes, I assume it didn't shift out of 2nd. Hope this helps someone.

WHAT!!!! Did you do voodoo on me because I couldn't use the FSM???? Undo it! Quick!! Problems: The last place that changed my oil mistook my transmission filter for my oil filter. Also, when they tightened it down they crimped it, resulting in a leak. I have been running without tranny fluid for how long?? God bless Subaru, but I wish it would complain more than that so I would know before I do something stupid like that! So, this also means they didn't actually change the oil filter...and probably not the oil. It's low and black. Add to it the leaking head gaskets, leaking oil pump, timing belt that needs to be changed, bad CV joints....the list goes on. My poor car has been abused and I didn't even know it! My '84 Land Cruiser is in better condition!!! That's just wrong. I stopped doing my own oil changes this summer because it wasn't saving me any money and it made a mess that I had to clean up...a trip to the parts store to dump the oil. I suppose had I known this would be the result I would have kept doing it. Sons of guns. I was going to sell it this last summer, too. It would have been after the "oil change", but before I knew there was a problem. Better for my pocket book, but somebody else would have hated me, even though I didn't know.

So, yes, I went through all the connections...again. I think I know which ones apply specifically based on the FSM so I checked them twice. The same 2 codes came back after the last reset, in fact, after the leaving the positive cable disconnected for 2 days the codes came back up almost immediately. I'm afraid it's time to call in the real Jedi. I could check one more connection in the console, but I break stuff. If I do that, what would have been a $300 job 3 months ago will turn in to a $600 job 3 months later, and the AC blower will STILL sound Chewbaca! BUT...i got an OBDII code reader and vacuum gauge out of the deal!

Yeah, but this is nothing like blasting womp rats on Tatooine!

Auto. Yeah, weird I'd see a code for a MT when I'm an AT...huh?

BTW...I found P0851 on pg. 839 of the FSM...''NEUTRAL SWITCH INPUT CIRCUIT LOW (MT MODEL)''

Feel free to harass me anytime. I appreciate the help.

Ah...so "Tripping a fault code" can be translated to mean I caused a DTC code to be created...just one of the "Pxxxx" codes. I was thinking it flipped a bit on the ECU or something. Easy enough. I'll disconnect tonight and try again tomorrow. I think I'm done for the day.

you're killin' me smalls!! It's all good. I did read a post while searching the magical interweb that indicated the whole thing (with these specific codes referenced) may be due to the fact I left the battery connected and disconnected the wiring harness, (which I did), tripping a fault. I just don't know how to clear the fault. It's my fault. Admitting it is half the battle. I checked all my connections...with the battery disconnected...they seem tight, no damaged wires, pins and receptacles in line. Thanks for the tip on the yellow one...I was moments away from a learning experience. And yeah, I was trying to find words for the picture with all the connections...and I was simply speechless. Now, to search the FSM...thanks for all the help! (sincerely.)

Laughing...with a little vinegar. There sure are a LOT of .pdf pages to download. *sigh*. Thanks for the direction though! It's good to get a fishing lesson I suppose.

Thanks, I needed a little humor in this humorless thread. I'll have a look. Any idea which wiring harness? I found this, but not sure I trust it: ''The neutral safety switch has a 12-terminal connector connected to a wiring harness under the dash.'' Fairly generic. When you're in there bent over double in sub-freezing temps, the dash seems like a pretty big place to just generically search for a 12-terminal connector.

OK, I'll bite...what's the NSS harness. Forum search turned up no results. Edit: Google says Neutral Safety Switch. Yes?

Interesting. The reader says it's a Subaru code Throttle Position Sensor circuit (High). The pdf in the link says PNP Switch Out Of Self Test Range.

P0700 generic transmission control (mil request) P1709 That's it. I have a new family member though, the innova 3100 obd2 reader. It has a lot more data available, just not sure what's relevant.

OK, I need to get a code reader and confirm the codes it's throwing. I have to admit when I saw the lights come back on it was cold out and I was sick of the whole thing, so I didn't actually go back inside Autozone and get the code reader again. I just assumed it was the same codes since I didn't do anything else to the car. I also need to check vacuum. I don't have a vacuum gauge. Sorry to be so needy on this.

About 60k miles since it was changed.

I'll take a couple pics.

Unplug WHICH cable? I unplugged the self test wire. I should probably follow this sequence: 1. Clear OBDII codes 2. Remove positive battery cable 3. Disconnect all connectors in the kick panel 4. Re-connect all the connectors in the kick panel 5. Re-connect the positive cable (after waiting how long?) 6. Drive and see if behavior is different 7. Shut off car, restart and see if lights come back on 8. Erratic behavior or lights? Y= Call it a good effort and take it to the stealership. No= Celebrate with pals and reinstall the glovebox. Thoughts?

Alright, the green connector was hooked up, so I disconnected it (it's behind the panel below the glove box, near the center console.). Went to Autozone, of course since the battery had been disconnected I had to reset the stations on the way(This is actually a little relevant), cleared the codes, and turned the key to ACC. The radiator fan didn't cycle on...Success! Or, so I thought. I drove away and the erratic driving was still there...delay to shift in to gear when stepping on the gas, delay in the RPM's when stepping on the gas, delay to shift up, stalling when stopping. Drove about 10 miles round trip with no check engine lights. Returned to Autozone...still no codes. Returned the code reader, removed the negative battery cable for about 30 seconds, replaced it and got in the car. Turned the engine over and the check engine light was on, the "Sport" light and...the other green light in the middle of the RPM gauge...were flashing at me. All the same codes as before. The weird thing is, the radio was still on the station it was on before I removed the battery cable. Should I have left it off for a longer period of time, and if so, how long? Would it have really made a difference? But hey, the engine fan stopped cycling on and off! Gah!!! Any other ideas?

That is a beautiful piece of information, right there. I did connect that. I'll check it tonight and get back to the group. Thanks for this! I didn't even really know where to start!

So, the test connectors are under the dash on the drivers side? These are not connected to anything. BUT, if there are some on the passengers side, this could be the problem. I reconnected everything that fit together. Maybe I shouldn't have?

I disconnected the battery, then reconnected the battery, then disconnected each connector and reconnected with the battery in the circuit. I don't know where the ECU or PCU are. When i find them, I assume the process is (with the battery connected): -Clear the codes (autozone code reader?) -Disconnect the ECU -Reconnect the ECU -Disconnect the PCU -Reconnect the PCU -Try it again I wouldn't be so anal, but I know that electrical gremlins like things done in a specific order and manner sometimes. Not sure how picky the Subaru gremlins are.

2005 Legacy 2.5 wagon. So, I pulled the entire ac blower assembly, not just the motor. (removed the glove box, pulled the whole unit) When I removed it, the car was functioning fine, no error codes. I ran the car without the unit in place for a while, no error codes and no pro lems...other than I had no heater. When I reinstalled with a new motor I disconnected the connectors below the a-pillar because the wiring harness was in the way, I needed a little more give. I reconnected them and when I put the key in the ignition and turned to ACC, the cooling fan (engine compartment) cycled on and off continuously with clicking in the relays below the A-pillar. When I started it up The check engine light came on, the "Sport" light started flashing, the transmission didn't shift at the right time, and there are at least 7 codes: PO137 PO1518 PO851 PO1152 PO1153 PO137 P1518 I have a hard time believing it's not related to something I've done. I've pulled the blower unit out again and checked all the connections and they are tight. I don't see any wires visibly pulled loose from pins or damaged, all visible grounds under the dash are tight and in place. The 3 relays below the A pillar all feel like they are the one clicking when I turn the key to ACC mode, so I can't tell if it's one of them or not. I checked all my fuses, they are all in place and in good condition. Does anybody have any further guidance? I really don't want to go to the dealership on this if I can avoid it. Is it possible I blew something up, disconnected a ground, or...?? Thanks!