skoebl

Would I be wrong in assuming that the full exhaust from a single port car would fit under mine (without modification)? Jerry's is definitely an option. Could I just bring him my y-pipe and headers or will he actually need the whole car? Edit: Also, what years exactly had the single port exhaust that would work (assuming the full exhaust will fit)?

Oh. I was under the impression that there was some difference between the single port intakes and the dual port intakes (stud locations, gasket fitment, not entirely sure what though). If that's true, then that saves me a bit of money and headache

95% of my driving is done in town, so I could use the better low end power. Fuel economy difference between the two? I already have them, and they're in really good shape and have new valves, so I think I'll stick with the newer single port heads. What about the camshafts? Do I need to get them re-ground, or are they ok as is? Any parts I'm missing otherwise? Edit: I also failed to mention that I'll be putting this whole motor together before dropping it in, since it's my only car (other reason for choosing the single port heads)

Are the single port heads better in any way?

Hey all, I've been wanting to do a frankenmotor build for my 92 legacy (auto) for quite a while. I've been reading all the threads I can find about it and just wanted to make sure I had everything clear. First: I got a great deal on a set of heads from a 97 (I believe) that are single port. I would like to use these instead of my HLA dual port heads that I have now. I know I need to get an intake and exhaust manifold from the year that the heads are from, but is there anything else that won't just swap over from my dual port heads? Second: Is it required to have my cams re-ground? I'm not going to have the extra $200 bucks to get a set of delta cams for quite a while, so can I just use the stock ones and be fine until I gather the funds for the delta ones? (I know about it being easier and "why not do it while it's out," but that's not relevant to me at the moment). Third: Just to double check the parts list. I will need: 96-98 2.5 block 2.5 head gasket Newer 2.2 intake manifold Single port exhaust manifold New gaskets, etc Anything I'm missing? Thanks! Scott

Ok, I found the test in the service manual for it. It's getting 4.7V (which the manual says should be getting between .7 and 1.0V with the ignition ON), and it has around 3 kohms of resistance (which is what it should be). In looking through the electrical tests with the ECU in the manual, it is saying to test pins that I don't have. What the heck? I understand non-turbo vs turbo, but there are still discrepancies....

And is there a better way to test if it's working than to just unplug it? Unplugging it made my fans turn on...which I assume means it thought the car was too hot?

So unplugging it isn't enough? Or was that in response to Bork's post? This is killing me...I've checked everything it seems. Fuel - ok Spark - ok Timing - ok Cam/Crank Sensors - ok What else is there? (besides the CTS....) The CTS is only $24...should I just replace it anyway?

So I unplugged the CTS, the only thing it changed was that the fans come on when the key is ON. Still no start. Any other ideas?

No I haven't checked that. Theoretically it would still fire even if it was messed up right? Guess it couldn't hurt though lol.

Is it possible that my ECU is bad? It seems to be the last thing on the list....Which sucks, 'cause I don't have $350 for one =(

So what I've done so far: Tested the coil - tests within spec, all plugs are firing at correct intervals Checked fuel pump - seems to be functioning, fuel getting past the injectors Replaced fuel filter - needed to anyway Replaced Cam sensor - due to CEL code Fuel injectors are spraying fuel, and they are getting signal at the correct time in correspondence with the spark plugs firing. All the timing marks line up as they should. So I'm currently getting constant flashes from the CEL (which apparently means there are no codes), and the car still won't fire up..... I'm at a loss....what else is there to test??

Well I suppose that's a good thing....but still doesn't solve the fact that the car won't start lol.

I mean it just flashes consistently, with no breaks or pauses or anything.

Ok so now I have another issue.... I replaced the cam angle sensor with a new one (yay gift from a friend!). I cleared the ECU codes (by unplugging the battery for a bit), and re-pulled them. I'm getting a consistent flash by the check engine light. It will just blink and blink and blink and blink. What the heck does that mean??

I got the sensor from the junkyard because it was free lol. And I understand taking the measurements across the connector...but there are 3 wires. I can't really make sense of the wiring diagram as to which wire corresponds to what.... And I can't find a manual online (I have veeerry limited funds...so even if it's just scans that are related to what I need to know would be awesome)....

So what pins do I test for those two sensors? I got a cam and crank sensor from the junkyard and it still didn't do anything. Am I looking for a voltage drop from 12V to 2V? Or am I looking for a drop/jump from 2V down to around .1V? And is there a ground that is specific to the cam sensor?

So I test for voltage variation while cranking right? I read somewhere that it should be like 1 or 2V normally with a dip no lower than .1V with every revolution....that sound right? I had driven through rain in the week before this happened, but the spark plug holes are completely dry.

So I left the battery unplugged overnight to clear the ECU codes. I tried to start it again and pulled the new codes it gave me. 13 - No signal entered from cam angle sensor, but signal (corresponding to at least two rotations of cam) entered from crank angle sensor 22 - Abnormal voltage produced in knock sensor monitor circuit 31 - Abnormal voltage input entered from throttle sensor The knock sensor one I would understand because I had unplugged it earlier to test if it made any difference. I pulled out the crank and cam sensors to check for damage. The crank sensor had a ton of metal shavings on it (from when my ac pulley decided to disintegrate into oblivion), so I cleaned that. The cam sensor was mostly clean, but I just wiped it off. Is there a way to test the cam sensor? Or at least one that doesn't require turning the car over (my roommates are at work...so no help)

There wasn't any weirdness or anything in the days before this happened. Wouldn't a bad cam or crank sensor cause a no-spark situation? Also shouldn't they throw a code? Battery voltage is good, as well as oil level.

I unplugged the knock sensor...it didn't make any difference. How do I verify that the injectors are working? I pulled one out and a bunch of gas came out of the hole it was in.... Do I need to have someone turn over the engine while I observe the injector to see if it's spraying??

I tested the spark by taking a plug out and grounding it while turning over the engine. I got a strong spark from it. I don't have a fuel pressure tester. I did test flow, and there seemed to be a lot (especially after I replaced the filter). The pump was replaced by the PO as well. I took it out and stuck it in a cup of gas and turned the key on, it shot out the top with what seemed like a lot of pressure. What I meant by everything looked new is that all the bearings in the pulleys looked new, without any play or anything. What would unplugging the knock sensor do?

Bah...I don't have a compression tester.... Yeah I'm sure I have spark. I tried a new coil even to see if it was just weak. It was the same. There isn't any mention on the receipt, but from looking at them, they look like they are in good shape at least. They look newer than just about anything else on the motor lol. I have checked all the fuses; multiple times even. They are all good =(. How do I check for fuel pressure after the regulator? Take an injector out I assume??

Yeah I pulled the fuel pump out and checked it. It's definitely got sufficient pressure.

So my setup looks exactly like that picture. All the notches point in the right directions. What the heck else could be wrong?? I've eliminated timing, coil, and fuel....