So far so good

Fairtax4me, If the new engine calls for 0w-20 oil, use it. It's complicated to explain, but basically the designers of the engine are looking for the oil to be a certain viscosity when the engine is warm. The 0w20 oil is what they recommend based on clearances and tolerances of the engine internals. The synthetic will also last longer and protect better between changes. It also has almost no tendency to sludge like conventional oil will. Thanks for the info, it makes sense. Anyone fill their oil filter with oil before putting it on to prevent dry starting? The Forester oil filter is now on top of the engine so doing this is going to prove difficult without the oil coming back out while installing it. Any thoughts?

Nipper, 3k for very first one then 7500 after that.

Thanks folks I will follow the book and yes I plan to drive this till the wheels fall off if possible. From what I gather here, the main reason may simply be due to the 0w20 only comes as a synthetic. Other than that, conventional may work. Sario, the 80.00 I was quoted was from the dealer. I will use eithor Castol or Mobil 1 and change my own oil when they are no longer free from the dealer.

You are correct with the dealer estimate of 80.00 per oil change however after the free year of service worked into the deal when I bought the Forester, I will change my own. The manual does state it requires the 0w20 for my vehicle (non turbo) and needless to say I will follow the manual to a 'T' but was looking for insight as to why this unusual requirement for this engine.

I just brought home a 2011 Forester and was told it is a requirement that it must have synthetic oil. While I understand and trust the benefits of synthetics I do not mind changing my own oil every 3-5k miles using conventional. Is it honestly necessary that I pay the 80+ for full synthetic? I would like to try the new NexGen recycled oil from Valvoline (when and if they ever come out with the right weight)