86 Wonder Wedge

I COMPLETELY forgot about it being two-piece. Good call Caboo. However, is the block-to-adapter seal leaking? or the cooler-to-adapter seal leaking?

While you have a *brand new* engine in that car, I'm pretty disappointed to see a Subaru shop do a complete rebuild rather than source a ZERO MILE shortblock (which is around $2k from Subaru). Worst case, a low-mile JDM unit usually runs around $1100. They can still charge labor for the swap, but I imagine they did not disassemble, machine and reassemble that engine for free. Shame. Anyway, you can have the rotors turned (usually) to save some cash, but I would get another few options on brake service before dropping $600 on a single axle service. As stated above, fix the brakes, clean it up, and sell baby sell since this is the best time to do it. But, you have already done the most expensive work that car will see, assuming you keep up on the maintenance on time. Suspension work will be on the horizon @ 127K and keep it clean to fight off the rust, and you could keep rolling to 200k without many problems.

The clicking could also be the speedo cable. My XT did that when the weather got cold, would eventually go away as the interior warmed up. Despite being digital dash, it still used a speedo cable to power the reluctor to trigger the dash.

There should only be one, large O-ring between the oil cooler and the block.... Red, retail is about $7....

That was my fall-back as well, and use a piggy-back AFC to account for the higher compression, and use an Arduino or Pi to control the manifold solenoid (simple RPM threshold window).

I really just need to know the cross-over RPM for the butterflies. I've got a Frankenstein Phase 2 going and I think this intake can save the mid-range and low-end once the more aggressive cams go in. With this manifold working well, I'm shooting for 200 HP/200 ft-lb (using factory/junkyard parts). I will probably use aftermarket EM (unless I can patch the 204's ROM into a 32-bit ECU and OpenSource tune it...).

Is the computer in the 96 Outback the original computer (the 2.5 ECU)? If so, 96 was a special year for the Outback and required premium only fuel and was fairly aggressive in it's knock control. Since the 2.2 has lower compression than the 2.5, it might be picking up false knock and assuming it's a misfire. I'd unplug the knock sensor and see if it smooths things out. Yes it will pop a CEL, but that's ok during testing. Regardless of the computer, I'd get a "cold" compression test in on that cylinder. If you have sticking valves or sticking rings, it will reveal itself as low or inconsistent compression.

Is the computer in the 96 Outback the original computer (the 2.5 ECU)? If so, 96 was a special year for the Outback and required premium only fuel and was fairly aggressive in it's knock control. Since the 2.2 has lower compression than the 2.5, it might be picking up false knock and assuming it's a misfire. I'd unplug the knock sensor and see if it smooths things out. Yes it will pop a CEL, but that's ok during testing. Regardless of the computer, I'd get a "cold" compression test in on that cylinder. If you have sticking valves or sticking rings, it will reveal itself as low or inconsistent compression.

USMB! Haven't been around in a while, but I figured if anyone would have the info, it would be you guys. I'm looking for either a FSM or information about the 99-00 GC Impreza SRX (equipped with the EJ204). I need to know what parameters control the variable intake and/or the pinouts for the ECU. All of the FSM I have found for the GC chassis have been the English/USDM versions which make no mention of this engine (since it was EDM/JDM/AUDM only). Brochures, tech articles, whitepages... anything on this odd ball motor? Does NOT include the 04+ EJ204 (with the LARGE one piece manifold). Thanks!

A 60 psi difference is quite large. And 130 psi doesn't sound too great either (I thought spec was between 130-180, but can't confirm at the moment). I assume he heard the leaking air during the leak down and discovered is was coming from the valves rather than the cylinder/piston? A sudden change in compression like that is normally not "fixable" by adjusting the valve lash. However, if this was out of spec for a while, it could have burned a valve. Either way, that head is coming off for more inspection. Hopefully it's just head work.

Pulled the TCU and it looks pristine (no burned or blown transistors/resistors/IC), but I know that might not mean much.. Had about 50/50 luck with the TB and code 24. Measuring 13 ohm when both the TB is and is not present. I'm still on the hunt for a good gauge to see transfer pressure..

I need to get my USB to SSM cable in working order to see duty C duty cycle values and my pressure gauge for the transfer pressure.. However, I've heard there is a translator that burns out in the TCU causing code 24/duty C issues... Anyone have info on that?

O.k, this is a cross post from LegacyCentral, but I think I'm into electronics/logic stuff at this point. Info: MY91 (07/90) Legacy Sport. Swapped in a MY97 Outback 4EAT (4.444) and matching 4.444 LSD. Plug and play, but have intermittent duty C code and on/off-style TB. It's either there, hardcore or non-existent. I'm getting a dragging sensation 95% of the mild-hard, straight line accel situations and a slight vibration at 50+ to match. After parking and shutdown, the car will lurch forward like someone hits me ONLY when the duty C code and TB show-up. No change when FWD fuse is applied (light comes on). Duty C resistance is coming out at 11 ohms (within spec). I'm leaning toward TCU or intermittent duty C. From my post on the BBS: "I think I've found why I'm "dragging" in 1st gear. If I take off slowly, near crawl, the trans and car seem to move forward VERY easily. However, once I get above ~10 mph, it's like traction control kicks in. Engine power is halved and I'm not thrown backward into the seat when I punch it. This is then DIRECTLY related to the TB if I try to turn sharply (even with or without the intermittent duty C code and occasional non-TB). In short, I think AWD is kicking in on mid-hard accel from a standstill and is causing the "occurs most of the time" dragging. However, I want to blame a dying duty C or TCU, but I can't help but think that the new gear ratio is causing the TCU to see a speed difference between VSS1 and VSS2 (even though there is no wheel speed difference) and is locking the duty C to compensate. I need an early TCU expert to chime in and see if that's how it works. If the TCU "backwards" calculates front shaft speed from the speedo head speed (where VSS2 is) and compares is directly to rear shaft speed (VSS1) instead of doing rev/sec to rev/sec." Might the TCU be seeing a false "higher" road speed due the gearing for the speedo not being the same as the 3.9? Or does it not work like that? Ideas?

Honestly, I've never needed to deck the heads with Fel-Pros. If you have a good straightedge, check for warping, of course, but then scuff with the red scotch-brite pads, brake clean and call it a day. That's how I've done ALL the non-FHI gaskets since. The Fel-Pros are not nearly as picky as the OE.

Did you have the heads decked/resurfaced and prep the block face as well? IIRC, the OEM MLS gaskets require VERY specific surface prep in order to ensure proper sealing. Actually, it was the OE metal MLS that failed in the 25D. They claimed to have FINALLY fixed the OE design flaw and materials, but after 2 sets of the 'final' design failing, I've given up on FHI non-turbo head gaskets. Switching to Fel-Pro's LaserWeld or the composite style gaskets, I've never had a problem on the 10+ 25D/222/253/251 I've done in the past years. Some have 100k+ since the gasket swap.

NGK Laser Plats are OE for the car. IIRC, replacement isn't scheduled till 60K. Unless you're burning oil or are just super anal about peak performance, I'd leave them alone. Replacements are ~$7/ea from a local parts house, I think. EDIT: If you want to replace due to age, I understand, but plugs don't age like wires/rubber does. I'd remove and inspect the wires for damage/cracking/hardness, but replace only if damage found. Re-inspect at 50K.

I remember at first, Subaru blamed a batch of bad short-blocks on poorly fitting piston rings, which would eat the walls and the short-block had to be replaced. Subaru also doesn't define "normal" consumption at 1qt every 1500 miles. That is the threshold at which shortblock/ring replacement is considered from SOA. "Normal" consumption is considered for 1qt every 5k miles. I honestly think it has to do with the 0w-20 and 5w-20 they are putting in for fuel efficiency. Look at EVERY other low-tension ring design motors in the last 10 years: Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Volkswagen. With thin oil, they burn. Bad. Nissan was the worst: if you didn't run the special ester-based oil for the diamond-like coating on the pistons and rockers, the coating would wear and flake, and start consuming a qt every 500 miles after 30K. No thanks. I know 3 owners who follow the maint and break-in schedule religiously on their new Civics, using Honda 0w-20, and they burn a quart every 1500 miles. 2 switched to a 5w-30 and BAM. Gone. Just food for thought.

I'd been using colourtune to dial in my Weber converted Spitfire years ago.. Fantastic little tool if you don't want to spend $400+ on a digital, standalone wideband O2 sensor and modify the exhaust. I remember reading a while ago on the british car forums that it was originally designed for cars/bikes with individual carbs so you could fine tune each cylinder (since the mfg back then wasn't as precise, each cylinder could be significantly different). So you'd have 3 or 4 and then match the color along with a carb synchronizer and balance the vacuum draw on each. It was a PAIN IN THE rump roast, but it ran like a Singer when done, even on the crude 1.4L motors.

^^ Bingo. The bushing provides support for the yoke/output shaft mating and if worn too bad, will let the yoke "droop" in the housing pulling the oil seal out of round and won't seal on the shaft. Time for a new one... However, if you can obtain the dimensions on the original, I'd see about a non-FHI sourced option (like a toyota, GM or Ford trans) that may have an identical bushing, but "isn't for a Subaru"...

Sounds like you've got yourself a new rally car.... On a serious note, I'm glad she's ok, a loss of a good "friend" is never easy. But the above are correct. You'll get more money from parting it out, but it will take a while to see the profit and you'll still have to do something with the carcass. Some yards won't take a hulk without a solid, honest-to-god title (not a salvage receipt that the insurance company/DMV will give you) so I'd call around to see if someone will take the shell once you're done. Otherwise, sawsall or plasma cutter time.

My friend's 04 RS had 156k on his OE belt... (it said mitsuboshi and the cover bolts were untouchced/rusted in place).

When you say shudder, like you're driving over washboard? or is it more like bucking and kangarooing? It sounds more like a "washboard" feel, which could be more of a slipping clutch disc.. but it only happens during the 1-2 shift? While the shifter is travelling between gears or after you've shifted and start to let the clutch back out? Does the shifter shake/jump/kick at all during this?

The rear O2 (downstream) could have been disturbed or there's a small leak somewhere between the converters. Or, there is the possibility that if the car had been running poorly (or a CEL for a non-emissions related issue like a knock sensor or upstream sensor that had been neglected for a long time), it's possible to have plugged or damaged the converters. A decent code scanner can watch/graph the rear O2 voltage. If it changes with the upstream voltage, it's usually good. If not, could be bad, dirty or a bad converter.

Either a dragging brake issue or a CV is going/gone bad. My Loyale did this and my Legacy is currently doing this. Both times, bad axle. (The Legacy is getting a new axle tomorrow) Look for split boots, flung grease or even excessive play (up and down, not in and out. They can "shift" in and out a bit, normal)

There is only the 1 fusible link, but several "large" fuses in that box. Weak or broken battery terminals can act like a low/no power condition. The dash/ECU/power toys take quite a bit of power to turn on, but the radio/ACC stuff does not. Could just be low on power/voltage.