86 Wonder Wedge

I'd also make sure your injectors aren't stuck or damaged. You could also unplug the MAF and then see if it runs any smoother.. Do you have a timing light? Put the light on each plug wire (closer to the plug the better) and make sure you get a steady, bright flash (the actual timing isn't important in this test) to ensure you are actually getting good spark consistently. You could have a bad/poor CAS...

since he's got the turbo crossmember already, why not a EJ20G? Yes, it's been done, but for 200 horse in stock form? Yes please... and they can be had relatively cheaply (usually come in some form of kit or swap setup with a trans and/or ECU..) Or piece a turbo setup together for a 2.2 or a 1.8 (those things LOVE to be turbo'd)

I had this same noise in my EA82 sedan. Turned out to be the header heatshield bushings (the small, half-moon pieces that isolate the pipe and the heatshield) had rusted and whenever the engine was under load, they would rattle like someone going nuts on a triangle. Wouldn't do it at idle, nor at high RPM under load. Only between 600 and 2000 RPM under load (in gear, taking off, ect). Drove me nuts until i just went under there and using the palm of my hand, bumped all the components until i got it to rattle. I took off the heatshields (and welded up a small hole that the bushing had caused) and it's had zero problems for 10 months and 12K miles.

Could be the bypass hose (small diameter, 90 degree hose on top of the pump, hides under the A/C compressor) could be leaking, or the gasket for the water pump could be leaking. There are two small oval rubber plugs on the center timing belt cover that you can remove to see if the belts are wet. This can help in determining where the water is going or coming from. Also, the main advantage to running without the covers is the ease of changing them in the future and visual diagnosis. However, it is more dangerous to limb when the engine is running and it also leaves the rubber belts and pulleys susceptible to water/snow, debris and other stuff that you generally do not want between your belt and cam sprocket. If they are broken or will not come off without destroying them, so be it. But, I'd advise to put them back on to try and maximize the life of the belts. Besides, if the oil or coolant is leaking, you'll see it at the bottom of the covers. They aren't fluid tight...

There is actually an AC Delco branded adjustable radius rod on Rockauto which allows for +/- 2.25 degrees. I think it's a better solution rather than slotting/spacing... However, keep in mind the extra stress it will induce on the LCA bushing and upper strut mount. Even with the 5-Lug swap, he couldn't pull the front camber closer to 0? Granted, he was probably going off the factory specs for a 4WD wagon (which has the most positive camber "range" because that's just how it sat due to the higher spring base on the 4WD struts and it being a wagon. It's not really the "ideal" setting for neutral handling and response..) I'd investigate why you have such a crazy difference between LR and RR camber. Print out the pages from the FSM about "tweaking" the rear settings. While they aren't adjustable (as I'm sure you know), they can be massaged so they fall on better settings or fall within range to make both sides equal. Be warned though: some shops are apprehensive about doing "custom" alignments or just won't do it down-right because of the liability on their end, especially if you have a tire warranty through them (Like Goodyear/Firestone/NTB/Terry's Tire Town, ect).

I can confirm this works. Non-ABS caliper brackets and the matching rotor work with the Loyale caliper. Honestly, the only difference between the calipers is the worm-drive piston for the E-brake. Even the brake pads are nearly identical with only a 0.20" difference in length between the EA82 and GC (Impreza) front pads.

Could also be a wiring issue. Thought I had a bad ECU when I couldn't figure out my IAC code... turned out it was the wires right at the plug on the harness side. If I moved the wires, it was golden. I'd check the wires at the plug back to the ECU or at least the main harness bundle at the driver's side head...

The only other bad experience I've had with an EA82T is I had 3 headbolts pull out of the block. Granted, this was a high mileage motor from a different car and who KNOWS what the P.O. did to it or if even HE stripped out the headbolts (this is my current theory), but after that, it had 12 qts of fluid in the crankcase (8 of those were coolant) and it still got me home... 20 miles. Oversized the bolt holes from M11 to M12, got new Grade 10.9 bolts, bolted it up and it still ran like a champ. In fact, it's still kicking around in some woods, in southern Ohio I believe... Overall, a great motor. It was susceptible to problems just like any other motor, but look how many other motors were COMPLETELY made out of aluminum (minus the crank and rods, of course). This was still in an era of iron/steel everything so heads never went bad/warped/cracked and if gaskets blew, it was 10 bucks and a few hours to fix. Infact, I'll probably just build the EA82 I've got in my loyale now until the Ej204 arrives.. this SC14 needs a job..

Have your son try pushing the release down (since I'm assuming it's an EA82?) while a friend gently pushes IN on the cover. Sometimes the tension on the peg is enough to keep it from withdrawing. After that, a painter's stirring stick and a little persuasion will do it. (Had ice seal it close one year... oy)

I'd save the FT4WD box and sell it so you have more funds to play with and run the XT box. OR you can give me the FT4WD box and rear subframe assy and I'll give you my FWD box and FWD rear subframe! and +1 to the above. Cooling, cooling, cooling. Wire the A/C fan to a toggle if you have to. I'd also carry a spare clutch cable just in case.

Is it a single wire with a hook/eyelit on the end? like the other two that go onto the small terminals on the coil? If so, could be for the RPM signal to the cruise control unit.. (At least that's what mine was)

Tacoma Mall, go it. And yeah, I'd have to leave like Tuesday.... Google Maps says 37 hours drive time. Plus, I'd have to sleep at least several hours to rest... maybe. (Once did Cleveland, OH to Key West, FL without sleeping.. 26 hours.. man that was nuts.) But so far, only one other from the East? subeman90?

Honestly, Not super-hardcore truckin', but no loligagging... And I've seen 1 other Older Soob in all of NEOhio, but I've got a buddy that is into the BD/BG Legacies that might want to go.. IDK if he'd want to X-country his though.. lol but if anyone else is passing through or has a group started (i.e. Chicago, I know a few 9-2x guys over there) more than welcome to join/combine..

Could we get a caravan started back further east? like Ohio? I'd love to caravan with some Soobs and I80 runs just north of me.. East coast/Midwest group!

What about the green and white connectors? Make sure both of those are unconnected. Then try the green connectors with IGN on to see if you can get the pump to cycle... but sounds like a power problem or a CAS. Check for spark and check for turning distro rotor.

^^ don't read the numbers on the cap. My replacement came with Nissan firing order since the used the same cap design at one point.. just route your wires carefully, and make sure your is pointing toward cylinder 1 at TDC and that wire 1 is on that terminal.. It sounds like a wire crossed or distro off by a tooth or two..

I had the same problem when I first got my 91 sedan, the drivers side was possessed to where it would start, go half way, then go back, then all the way open. I found it was a loose connector by the kick panel just below the hood release cable and the carpet was falling down.. I cleaned and dielectric greased up the connectors, tucked them back in behind the panel and no phantoms since then! under the pass seat, there are a few relays and IIRC, one is for that auto seat belt motor which is at the bottom of the B pillar kick panel, right above the rocker..

I too have been contemplating a manual rack swap, and interesting point about draining the fluid from the rack to convert it to a manual.. But what about longevity and lubrication? And id think the logic would be the manual rack has quicker ratio since there ISNT an assist... But I'm not near my manuals ATM. but if that's true, then a drained XT6 rack (quickest of all the power racks, IIRC) would be nice in an EA82, I'd imagine..

So the investigator pulled the dipstick, smelled fuel, said it COULD have broken down the oil (Which you'd need QUITE a bit of fuel to do that to 4.2 qts of oil) and that was it? It sounds like he doesn't give two rat's asses about you or your classic. Besides, isn't that fresh oil? As in, you, the owner, have ZERO miles driven on that oil? If it was a factor BEFORE the engine "died" (still not knowing the cause of "death") when the mechanic drained it, wouldn't he have said something to you when he called to ask to replace the intake gaskets? But playing devil's advocate, say it was an existing problem and he changed the oil anyway... in FRESH oil, and in less than an hour worth of run time, he dumped enough fuel from (I assume a leaky carb?) the time he changed the oil to the time it seized to turn 4 quarts of oil into effectively water? This reeks of bull and I hate it as an automotive professional to see people fed this crap because only two things will happen. Either you'll get a bad taste in your mouth for older cars or worse Subarus, or you'll find out the inspector didn't give two $*#) about you and neither does your mechanic. Don't let this one go man... if you love her, fight for her!

I've been living with this misfire since I've had the car... when warm, it pops and the idle kinda bobs around 700 or so, but I'm not wondering if it might be an exhaust restriction since the NGK V-powers I put in and approx 5K miles later, had a white powder (like a lean condition or burning additives) but emissions passes with flying colors, all sensors pass, have about 20-22 inHg vac at idle (seems a little high to me...) I went a step colder on plugs and it seemed to help a touch (thought it was a predetonation..) Anyway, got the small hole patched on the header-pipe, no more hissing! ( ) but now off with the muffler to find why it's rasping.. even though the growl it produces it pretty awesome. Sounds better than most of the WRXs running around..

Should be done with engine off... but yeah, make sure the pads have seated into the caliper piston's grooves. And a bleed in sequence if you're in question.

NO BOV. If you want the sound, put a speaker in there. Dump the 3", it isn't helping you. Also forget the CAI. With the air box's snorkle the way it is, it can pull more "cold" air than a mushroom in a near-zero air flow pocket in a nearly sealed engine bay can. The EA82Ts are fun if you can keep them cool enough and keep the knocking at bay. DO NOT TOUCH THE BOOST. The intercooler is a good start, but just keep your EM system in good order and it should last a while. There are two ways to increase the car's performance: Add power or lose the weight. And in the case of the EA82T, more power is a motor swap. Even the EJ22 will be probably a 20% increase in power and torque. For lightweight, strip the fold down seats, the spare, ect. Make sure you don't have the air suspension first. Also, cutting springs really won't help you... 5 lug (XT6 hubs and control arms among other parts) is the only way to go to maintain good alignment or even camber adjustment for the front. Rear alignment adjustment is nearly non-existant. Also, start saving/looking for a 4WD rear carriage and research a rear e-brake conversion. The XT can be anything you want it to be, just don't throw good money after bad. If you've dreamed it, chances are someone has tried or thought about it too. Welcome, and Good Luck!

Honestly, I'd skip the R134A conversion as these systems are very robust and wouldn't tamper with it. Convert the ports to 134 heads and use an R12 replacement (Like EnviroSafe's ES12). Have successfully used it in 2 other R12 Subaru systems and an old A6 general motors setup. The ES12 will mix and the ester oil will help the compressor. At ~$30 for 4 12oz cans, HELLVA lot cheaper than a new/reman compressor and the R12 (ES12) is a vastly superior refrigerant to 134a Just food for thought...

Be very, very careful when playing with those exhaust studs in the head.. I'd undo those first, then the flange bolts back at the 2nd converter, then the one bolt by the trans. This will keep the pressure off the head studs while removing.. They thread right into aluminum and LOVE to eat threads if not careful. You can also look for telltale signs of leaking exhaust (typically black streaking, or white deposits) or even feed a tiny bit of ATF through a vac line and when it burns, it produces a thick white smoke which likes to find it's way out of every hole in the exhaust. Good Luck!

how old is the clutch? Mine's got 135K on the original and it's near the end of the clutch travel when it finally bites... adjusting the clutch to hover closer to the pressure plate may help, but in the mean time, slower shifts between gears will help and fully push the pedal to the floor for max disengagment. If I'm lazy or too quick between gears, it gets angry or is real notchy. Good Luck!