86 Wonder Wedge

I think 2.7 Loyale used them, but with 4Runner (IIRC) struts? But I believe the ride height was much higher.. What about when you do the 5-lug imp/lego swaps? with the impreza struts, don't you use the imp springs and EA hats? or did I read that wrong?

Sounds like the gaskets are not doing their jobs.. do you hear a bubbling or boiling noise from behind the dash when you start it? And is it SPFI? could be an ECT, but if it's truly overheating and not just lying to you, probably a headgasket...

you'll have about a 1/16" inch ring of no-contact on the outer and inner diameters of the rotor... other than that, like GD said, frozen pins, OR air or grease is stuck in the slide pin shaft and is causing a buildup of pressure everytime you apply the brakes feeling like a stiff pedal...

Make sure your knuckle is actually "hanging" onto the strut. Sometimes rust and corrosion can keep the 2.5-3" of the stub from sliding out. Use some penetrant (PBlaster or WD40) and try gently tapping the small "stablizing finger" where it bolts into the knuckle to give it a little twist. Also, you may have to undo the strut rod (the rod running from the control arm to the footwell) or at least have someone push down on the control arm. My strut rod was actually pushing the knuckle UP into the strut not letting it release.

Well, when you turn the ignition on, do you hear it whine for approx 2 seconds? If you want to by pass that anyway just for diagnostics, you can ground the pump right at the body so it will run full time with ignition on (instead of using the ECM to ground it). Also, pull the distro cap to make sure the rotor/distro is spinning, and check the timing of the valves (timing belt alignment). lazy/old tensioners or belts can cause skipping. Otherwisem the basics. check for spark, do a comp check, look/smell for LARGE amounts of unburnt or raw fuel.. report back!

Well, rolled over 119K today, and changed the front struts (since the PO or whoever had put 4WD sensa-traks up front causing a +2.0 camber! (FYI, the 2wd strut has its spring base plate ~1" lower to the spindle than the 4wd ones.) Also regreased and rebooted the driver's axle since the boots were getting tired/cracking and the axle seal was shot.... National seal and Beck/Arnley boots. The beck/arnley boots were the exact OE replacements (no uni-fit dormans here! ) and they work and look exactly like the OEM. VERY impressed. even made in USA! :-p And to top it off, new set of General AltiMax RT (175/70/R13). $49 ea from tireRack. So far, VERY impressed as well, comfortable and quiet and nice agressive treads on the sidewalls. And the icing, NEW HUBCAPS!!! I bought the last 4 in the U.S. Even got the note from the Subaru dealer network, pretty cool! Ill be posting pics soon, but NTB for 22 each! Now about that stupid radio... and maybe some Hella 500 Black magics for the front???? yes please!

With the daughterboard installed, could you use an emulator to run/tune the maps in realtime instead of having to burn/reburn EEPROMs? Run/Record with the emulator, fine tune on the fly, then burn one EEPROM or keep the emulator in place? I was able to use my Emu emulator on an old 3rd gen F body ECM in real time to run my "warmed" 80 Turbo TA. It would load an "EPROM" to the board and allowed the laptop to record and modify the timing/tables w/o having to remove the chip.. I just left the Emu plugged in so I could have USB connectivity whenever and change maps/timing to suit the weather or driving style (track/street/strip)...

What I'm curious to hear is why the cranking becomes "labored" or slows down when both fuel AND spark are plugged in... hmmm... have you tried cranking with a WOT? or a partial throttle? How are the voltages to the coil with KOEO (key on engine off) and while cranking? Were the injector pluses (flashes with the noid) strong or weak? Maybe the coil isnt punching enough across the plugs? I know you've tested for spark at the wires, but how do the plugs look?

If you compare the Impreza (93-96) and any EA82 front caliper, they look identical (minus the e-brake provisions and piston style) so yes, they will swap. However, your OBS e-brake is a rear-pull setup and the EA82 is a front pull... You'd have to swap handles, which I have no idea if they will, cut holes for the cables in the floor, and route them to the fronts while avoiding the control arms... Possible, but REALLY difficult...

DexII is the old spec of ATF (the P.S. cap says/uses the same fluid). The common replacement is DexIII/Mercon. The fluid is the same, it's the MerconV you've got to be careful with (for newer Fords). DexVI is perfectly ok to use in old Dex/DexII/DexIII systems, however, I've had better results with a DexIII HM (like Castrol's TransMax) since it does have a little seal sweller. FYI, the SYSTEM may hold 7qts, but the pan may only hold 3 or so. Find the "service fill" spec or fill to appropriate level. The rest of the fluid is in the torque converter, trans cooler and line, the valve body and the clutch packs and drums. I would advise just "changing" the 3 quarts from the pan since a total swap may shock the system and cause worse slippage since the junk in the old fluid may be keeping your clutches together!

Is it a hard, almost slapping noise? Does it go away when you brake or just slightly touch the pedal? Did you just do pads and/or rotors? I'm having the same problem, however I just did the front pads and rotors. It would come and go, but would stay all the time EXCEPT when I just barely put pressure to the brake pedal. Long story short, I found it was the new pads I installed (TBH, I installed the cheaper set since I had to replace them due to pulsations AND I'm doing the Impreza spindle swap shortly). I could "rattle" the pad in the cradle even with the caliper installed and even after the new anti-rattle clips, the pads still just "flop" into the cradle instead of squeezing or fitting snugly. I believe the pads are just a cheaper backing plate made to smaller specs...

It's not the best method, but there are small oil relief holes next to the HLA buckets. If you have an air compressor, I've had luck using a small nozzle air gun and back-feeding them to get them to pop... however, I've also had to destroy several using pry bars and needle nose since they WOULD NOT LIFT. Spin and wiggle, yes. But WOULD NOT lift up. Sealed Power STILL has them available from most auto parts houses (Advance, NAPA, Oreilly) or RockAuto I'm sure can get them if you end up destroying one or several. Good luck!

Does the exhaust SMELL sweet? or even feel cooler than normal? Had a buddy's EA82 (MPFI) with a bad intake gasket, and it wouldn't smoke, per se, but plug 1 was moist and the exhaust was nearly cool to the touch coming out of the back (at operating temp) where my SPFI EA82 can't hold my hand infront for more than a couple seconds..

I had the same "huh?" moment as well, AND the Haynes "Computer Codes and OBDI" book said the Loyale's (SPFI and MPFI) would flash the CEL on the dash-area rather than blink the tiny red LED on the ECU itself. But no dice. First, remove the under-column cover (big kick panel covering ECU) OR go completely dark in a garage or dead of night so you can see the flashing red. Look directly under the column, you'll see the ECU. There is a small hole to watch the red LED blink. Without either green or white connectors connected, and KOEO (Key On, Engine Off), the ECU will flash starting/driving codes (critical codes like IAC, TPS, MAF, injector, starter circuit, ect). With the green connector connected, KOEO, the ECU will display current non-critical codes (EGR, CTS, knock, timing, ect..) You should also hear the EGR, Canister Purge, and Fuel pump relays rhythmically tick on/off sounding like a grandfather clock. With the white only, KOEO, it will display old/stored codes. To clear, start the car, connect both green and white until the CEL blinks, then turn off, disconnect, then drive off. This is no Subaru FSM data, but combined from experience and several different code retrieval books..

Checked the floor board on the pass side yet?

UPDATE! Well, my throttle body re-gasket finally came in, so new injector O-rings, upper TB gaskets, new FP reg o-rings and a new fuel filter, and my problem is cured. There wasn't anything obviously wrong with any of the components, but i figured it couldn't hurt (esp with the added ethanol in the fuel now a days). Don't ask me why, I couldn't see why the computer has rectified the electrical dilemma it was in by a simple regasket (the injector housing to TB gasket was fairly wet..) or it was a vacuum leak that sealed upon warming up?! IDK.. lol anyway, no more cold idle problem!

What is a "soft clutch"? Slipping under load? squishy? Its cable actuated, so you might be able to adjust some of the "slack" or cheat to get it to grab faster..

Hello EA82 club! 91 Loyale, EA82 SPFI, 2WD, 5SPD, 116K miles Ok. I go out in the a.m. and try to start the car, no start w/o holding the throttle 50% until started, the CEL stays on, and idles around 350-500 RPM on its own. I go to drive, and she sorts of bucks mid range, and is slow on the take-up if I spike the RPMs. Also, upon engine braking ( from 1500-on) and pull into neutral, the idle bottoms and stalls (like you turn the ignition off), but restarts right away, CEL still on, and idles stupid low. Pull the CEL code: Code 24, and that's it. NOW, for the twist. When the engine FINALLY warms up (the gauge never reaches half point, more like 1/4 when it's "warm"), the idle stops bottoming out, the engine doesn't hesitate, and is much livlier. PLUS, when I turn the ignition off for a second or two, restart, the CEL goes away, and the idle sits right at 700. It will start and run 100% 20 mins, 1hr, 4hrs, and today, it went 6hrs, without running, and started perfectly. INFO: All tests/readings were when the engine was cold (CEL on) Idle valve Ohm (10.4), infinite Ohms between terminals and body Harness power (black/white wire) 12.2V MAF: 10.3Ohm resistance on gnd terminal, 12.2V feed, and good signal power (can't remember values, but it was smack in the middle and varying w/ blowing into air box) CTS: 435Ohm @ 147F NO build-up in throttle body (I mean SPOTLESS. The zinc plating is still POLISHED), no fluid leaks. The IAC is original and I watch it cycle when the throttle is actuated, and when the ignition is turned on and off. now.... GO!

Well, I did a number of things. I resealed the oil pump (and I think this was the main cause since the exterior was wet, and there were small brown "tracks" under the seals where it had been leaking), I used one extra washer under the pressure relief spring, and I installed a new pressure sender from BWD. And I still run a 5W-30 HM oil. I now get 50-55 when cold, 45-50 when cruising, and 30-35 at idle.

does the radio, igntion (motor start, ect) and/or warning lights come on? Might be a lazy/bad ignition switch... Also, on the switch on top of the column, is it flicked to the left (can you see a "P" with rays coming off of it? If not, flick it over.. I've seen some Subaru ext. lights systems do this (prevent ALL other lights from coming on if this is switched on). Or you could have a bad headlight switch. try moving it around or flicking on the highbeams and see if that awakens anything.

Hello all! First off, you'll have to excuse the user name, the Wonder Wedge is no longer with us... (a moment of silence, please.) Moving on, I loved my first EA82-chassis, I had to get another! For a while, I've been stalking craigslist, Autotempest, and eBay for something squeaky clean. Drivetrain didn't really matter since it'll be getting something much, much better Anyway, what I found was an ultra-clean 91 Loyale, 2WD, 5 Speed, SPFI w/ 115K miles. The only problem it had was a bypassing oil pump gasket (low oil pressure). Fixed that, plus the 120K mile service (T belts idlers and tensioners, fluids, WP, thermostat, belts and hoses, ect). The only rust is the rockers at the rear well are starting to balloon (only at the tips). Otherwise, the car is RUST FREE. Even the original converters have CLEAN HEATSHIELDS. EVERYTHING was Ziebarted from the get go, and EVERYTHING is coated underneath.. lol I couldn't have found a cleaner one from the museum! All in, it owes me less than $1K. Not too shabby.. Now for the pics!

Well, I don't plan on changing oil mid year since Ohio sees -20F and 100F throughout the year (You would know, coming from Dayton! lol ) so I'll probably end up running 5W-30 after the oil pump reseal to (hopefully) get my pressure back..

If there are leaks, I would pop out the pressure relief valve as well and check for any sludge/broken spring allowing it to bypass when it shouldnt...

Good to hear guys, thanks, and pics are coming! I was thinking sender/inaccuracies because even while cruising steadily, the gauge would fluctuate a bit as well... I looked into the Haynes manual for Ohm/test specs but came up short. Would the FSM have it? or is it just a "trust its bad" thing? Can an aftermarket gauge/sender be used in the idiot light hole on the pump or must it go into the factory sender hole?