86 Wonder Wedge

This is actually an involved process. You must reset the preload on the pinion bearings correctly after replacing the seal or you'll be pulling that diff again in several hundred miles. Unless you have single digit inch-pound torque wrenches, I'd leave it alone. Look for a shop locally that does diff set-ups or repair work. Save yourself the money and pull it yourself, let them rebuild, then throw it back in. Just remember to mark the flange positions before you separate or you'll be chasing a nasty vibration issue...

I'd double check with that rebuilder to make sure they are also replacing the bearings, checking for thrust clearances, ect. $800 seems almost TOO good for a good job. Unless they are specialists who do 4EATs all day, there's a reason other places charge $1000+ for a stock rebuild. While you're in there, do the transfer clutch rebuild and Duty C. With the early 4EAT, trust me. Have it done. However, I would recommend doing the 4.111 swap like others have recommended. It will really wake it up (you can sacrifice top end speed, we don't have an autobahn in Ohio) and take some stress off the trans. Yes, you will need a matching diff, but look at LKQ for low mile diffs and come with a 1 year warr. Really are the best deals. EDIT: For a quality. complete rebuild kit, prices are around $500. They're going to go through the whole thing, spend HOURS double checking and measuring tolerances for only $300? ehhhhh....

Well, as carmakers go, cars don't get much easier to work on than Subarus. Most maintenance can be done in the driveway with minimal tools or experience and will run forever if you just keep your fluids in them. I'll be honest, sub-$1K Subarus usually come with more problems than the insurance company will pay you out (in case of a total loss). The generation that is the cheapest is the 2nd gen Legacies with the EJ25D. Most at this age (or price) have overheating issues due to headgaskets which will eventually lead to bearing failure if overheated too badly. Rust is the other major issue, but usually confined to the rear quarters but can get the rear subframes if not careful. If you can find an early Legacy or Impreza with the 2.2 (before 97), those were the best years for stoutness and interchangeability. Almost NEVER see headgasket or bottom end issues and the parts are mostly the same from 90-97 (yes, there are exceptions). Find the cleanest one you can, even if it has drivetrain issues, as they will last as long as the body will.

IIRC, he can use his Phase 1 trans with the Phase 2 block as long as he keeps the flexplate from the Phase 1 block. The Phase 2 stuff had more bolt holes, but still had the same/original bolt pattern for the phase 1 stuff. Also, beware the MY96 EJ25D. Had higher compression and requires premium fuel and the ECU to match (some of them). And there's something about using 25D heads on a 251/153 block.... either you need a hybrid gasket, or the cooling passages don't line up well... something. It's been a while since I don't like using Phase 2 stuff (Phase 1 was just built better), but for the easiest swap, grab an EJ22, 97-99.

Welcome! I would go back and talk to the dealer first. What did they service? Spark plugs? Timing chain? filters? Depending on what they were working, something could have been left disconnected or loose (as evidenced by the hose, so far). If they will not do anything about the issue, I would then try to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and let it sit for approximately 30 mins. This will force the computer to "relearn" sensor data and operating ranges to accommodate the new parts on the car and for the recently reconnected hose.

Since the diag fee was only $40, I assume they didn't bother with the fuel leak-down test or a compression check or a spark check. A P0301 - Misfire Cylinder 1 could mean a HOST of things, but if your sister hasn't had any routine maintenance done recently, it's probably time. Does the light ever blink at her? Does she notice it more when it's cold, wet, ect? Like others have said, pull the cylinder-in-question's plug and see what it looks like. If it's fouled out or damaged, I'd look for a bigger issue. If not, good resistance check on the wire will quickly check it's health and the spray-bottle at night will help root out any arcing. But due to the fact that it only happens for a short time at start-up, I wouldn't rule out a coil. I'd source one from a junkyard for a cheap gamble if there's no other evidence to support it's failure.

If you want a high-quality replacement, spring for an OEM Calsonic or Nissens radiator. The original lasted you this long and the OE quality productions are MUCH better in terms of fitment, finish and durability. No, they aren't cheap. But the "Mishimoto" aluminum ones have been problematic and if you convert to a non-standard setup, realize that you will also lose the ability to buy "off-the-shelf" parts incase of an emergency. Just something to consider.

Did the replacement sensor come with a new harness/pigtail attached to the sensor? Or was it just a sensor? If not, the harness on these are also notorious. Most replacements include a new/updated sensor-side harness.

Check the electrical system for any AC voltage when running. Can cause odd driveability issues as well. Also check the resistance of the ECT when hot vs. cold.

A no crank condition? Or a no-fire condition? If a no crank, (And A/T) throw it into neutral and see if it cranks. If manual, look for the Clutch safety switch, unplug and jumper it on the car-harness side. If a no fire, give it a shot of starting fluid and see if it responds. Yes, then fuel issue. Look at a dead/dying cam sensor or blown ECU/INJ/IGN fuse. If no, then consider a no-spark condition. Crank sensor, coil, blown fuse..

Edit: reading is hard. Glad you got an OE one. When I had big air bubble problems, it would throw the code 21 on my 91 SS. But the book defines it as an "abnormal" signal witch could be a bad electrical signal or a wildly varying signal as well. Check the harness on the driver's side by the battery for clean and tight connections.

In the Mid-west area, looks like a decent, ~100-125K mile motor will set you back ~$1000. If you can grab one from an LKQ yard, they are the best bang for the buck, usually carry a 1 yr warranty and are VERY easy to deal with if you have any problems (such as bad from the yard, shipping damage, requires more repair before use, ect) EDIT: I do not work for or are associated with LKQ, but I use them on a very regular basis.

Love the enthusiasm, but unless you already have the 6MT or a friend you're stealing it from, a good, used 6MT with the parts you'll need is PROBABLY more expensive than the Forester you're putting it in. Have you looked at 6MT swap prices..? If you want to learn and tinker with Subarus, I'd suggest looking for a core motor (the Ej251/2/3 are EVERYWHERE) and play with that on the engine stand. Or find a junkyard that will let you pull your own parts. Aside from the WRX motor, you'll need proper engine management, full FHI wiring diagrams from both the 01 Forester and the donor car and the little parts that will nickle-and-dime you to death (unless you have a half-cut WRX sitting in your garage/yard).

Not the 5MTs. Full Time 50/50 split. Had a buddy's LGT do the same thing, but it was a bad front axle. Looked good/intact boot, but when removed, that thing would lockup on the inner joint on fairly sharp turns. Pop, grind, growl, good lord.

I'm only showing the DCV14G as the compressor used on the 00 Outback/Lego. I have a feeling the DKV and DCV are not interchangable due to possibly different output pressures or maybe port locations. (Even though RockAuto has the DKV listed as the cross from Subaru's part number.) Car-part.com shows AT LEAST 20 in my area (Akron, OH) for ~100 or less. Subaru also says they used this on the 00-03MY Legacy/Outback/Baja with the 2.5. Also, the advance reference to a running change is about the brand name, not the consolidation of part numbers (in 99% of cases). So the factory air they might ship you will work/function the same as the Tough One they advertise.

Could also be a crank sensor dying... Or a MAF/TPS issue? I'd check for nasty vac leaks too.

Having the belt on 180 degress out of sync typically would cause all sorts of problems, but I'm also on the "low to no compression" wagon. Thought I had a dead EA82T once due to the HLAs not pumping back up after headgasket job. Near 0 compression in 3 cylinders. Pulled the HLAs back out and sure enough, almost all of them were hydrolocked into the bores due to junk in the cam carrier. Grabbing compression numbers will help. Good luck!

In neutral, you should be able to hold the output shaft (or stub shafts on the front diff) still while turning the input shaft. In gear, it should be smooth, but more resistance. Consistant, but more resistance. The presence of the nylon suggests a thrust washer was sacrificed and two parts are now bonding when you need to keep them separated (like the Offspring). Rotating the shifter rod about 15-20 degrees off center should find you 2nd or Rev (pushing in on the shaft)

The locking up almost seems like two different gears have engaged. With either a bad/broken hub or broken shift fork, when like 1st AND 3rd engage, the center shaft will lock up due to 2 different ratios being employed. I had a T5 do that at 70 mph, not fun mind you. I don't see anything catastrophic going on in the center diff though... With the center removed, does the trans spin freely (via the input shaft) when in a gear or neutral?

This is true. My 2WD Loyale (with 175/70/13 All seasons) could plow right through snow. Our Blizzak'd Liberty sucked with its 225 tires.

Figures the dealer would just pad slap... A possibility, especially with grooved/unsurfaced rotors. EDIT: OR the dealer went to town on the rear hubs/rotors to get them off and has damaged a wheel bearing. The hard left/right test doesn't work quite well with rear bearings.

The common Frankenmotor is the 25D bottom end with 22E top end. High compression and nice torque. DOES require premium fuel though, IIRC. Would also have the bores checked and rods/mains journals checked while you're at it. 183K is usually nothing for cylinder wear, but the 25D bores can become out of round fairly easily (from the HM ones I've redone). OR if you're not going to split the halves, have a back-up motor on standby. Higher stress means higher chances of problems on these.

Is there any sort of growling/whine/rumble when taking off quickly (Like pull auto into "1" or 1st gear and give it hell)? Does the noise change when taking left or right turns?

I wonder if he was trying to "feather" or modulate the throttle like you would in a cable-throttle car (or non-trac/VDC car). Since this is DBW, it will do that work for you, so all you do is keep your foot lightly down and the car will sort the rest. Constantly stabbing or working the pedal will only confuse the system and try to get him to knock it off.

I know this is an ancient topic, but just to clarify, the SOA8376400 or 8376300 (sedan) is only the axle-back muffler and not a complete header/cat/resonator/muffler system. The comments about it not fitting due to the oil cooler are irrelevant since it's a muffler, not a header that a few have failed to realize. And some people want a stainless, bolt on, more than silent muffler for less than a muffler shop would put a crappy universal. It should fit the 99 OBW, it might be a listing error.