86 Wonder Wedge

Oil pressure sender is #1 culprit, but also check the PCV tube connector, back of the block, by the pass. side of the throttle body. ~ 7/8" in diameter. I've seen these pop off or weep, but usually is followed by poor running and is slow to accumulate.

Subaru has gotten the design down now (since you might be thinking, "If this one failed, why go with another OES gasket?") so they are a do it once and job done. However, Fel-Pro's Laser-Weld MLS gaskets are NICE. However, according to Fel-Pro, these gaskets DO have tighter requirements for block and head prep in order to seal and hold correctly. IIRC, Subaru's replacement gaskets are a graphite composite (older base design) and are more forgiving to imperfections and non-exact head tightening torques. Either way, I've not had to replace an "updated" headgasket due to intrinsic failure.

Depends on the maker. I know for a fact Hitachi (early EJ22 and some 253 A/T) can separate the stator (windings) and the diode assembly (4 screws), but I don't know about the Mitsubishi (mid 90s EJ22 and 25). But no, the diodes themselves are encased in a basic heatsink block and cannot be torn apart.

I had this EXACT same thing happen on a buddy's early EJ22 and my EA82, only much more violently. And it happens intermittenly too, yeah? Stop by a local parts house that offers free charging system diagnosis. Have them run the tests and if you must, make sure they check for AC Ripple. Should be near zero or tens of mV. Anything above a hundred or so mV is not a good thing and can start screwing with the ECU and instruments as they are designed for DC voltage, not AC.

The T-type spare is a 15, but the width is too small to handle the normal load requirement for any period of time.. If you want bigger wheels, either hunt down the old Peugot sets or perform the 5-lug swap.

As a frequent sufferer of rust belt cars, that is not a "no rust" car. I'd give that rear crossmember another 2 years in that environment. Total surface rust is one thing, nasty scale at the edges and seams is another. Good call on walking. This guy bought it at auction, maybe pad slapped it and just threw it on the lot. ANYTHING out of a third tier (or any dealer for that matter) dealer's mouth is either bullshit or omitting knowledge. He was probably Serbian, too, wasn't he?

Bingo. The SOHC EJ20E/EJ201 is an ultra-common fix for the EJ25D or EJ251/3 problems that occur frequently. Since the EJ22s are sometimes hard to find (cheap, or in good shape/low mileage), the EJ20 is a drop in solution, albeit with less power.

I was not 100% about the WRXs... I know my 05 9-2x (Impreza wagon) was (but it was NA). I figured it would be with the immoblizer/anti-theft system would be integrated at that point (since the STi has it..)

Check for missing teeth on your crank sprocket. IDK which style you have (the 5 tooth or the million tooth one) but I had a camry do the EXACT same thing on me. WOULD NOT run over 3300 RPM. Idled great, smooth, but nasty and dead after ~3K RPM Lady came to me saying car runs like spoob after timing belt change, but the marks lined up, sensor specd/tested good and no CEL. Prior mechanic had pried the crank sprocket off, breaking a few of the teeth and the ECU would sense a missing/intermittent CKP, but would run and clear the MIL since the senor was "sensing" again. The only other thing I can think of is check for AC voltage. My GG and EA82 did this to me. Would run weird as hell, no CEL, nothing above ~2000 RPM on the GG and above 3K on the EA82 because the outputting AC Voltage was greater than 4 VAC and the ECU would interpret that differently. Turns out the diode trio failed after an engine bath...

04 would be cable operated throttle body, and 07 would be drive by wire, or DBW. Yes, you'd need a DBW harness, but these are not like the old imprezas or GLs, the 05+ ECU is CANbus and talks to the TCM, BCM and antitheft. If that isn't enough, you'd need the ECU, TCU and harness from the 07 as well, as with the keys and antitheft module so the system will be happy. Otherwise, you're not going anywhere. Have you checked for crossmember clearance? I know the GC8 and the GG imprezas need a crossmember swap to a turbo crossmember. And a clutch? You've got a pull style, yeah? You'll need an 06+ WRX clutch to match the 5 speed you have, plus an EJ20 flywheel. Did you score big on this 04 WRX motor? Cause the easiest thing is to just go buy a turbo car..

Do it to it! I was going to stealth mount an SC14 to the EA82, but some old woman in a Sebring changed those plans.. But check out RS25.com if you're serious. SpudChucker, IIRC, cut a hole in the hood of his 06 impreza and stuck it through the hood, bolted it on top of the TB... seriously crazy and cool stuff.

Those top hats look identical to the EA82 ones, but idk about the mount hub diameter... could be too large (not fit in the hole) Fronts like straight swap. The rears need either an adapter plate for the top mount, or drill out the existing upper mount to accommodate the BE3 larger strut shaft diameter. Would double check length too, but over all, a good potential candidate. Nice find!

IIRC, that generation you'll need a turbo crossmember to clear the uppipe, or notch and weld the existing one. OR you use the EJ22T, but ditch the turbo, find an M90 from a Bonneville SSEI and cut a hole in the hood! I may need sleep.. EDIT: One a serious note, you can use any phase I EJ motor as a drop in(just using the bottom end and heads) as the electronics should stay with the car (intake, EGR, crank/cam, ect) like an EJ22 from a legacy or impreza or 2.5 from a forester. Or grab an EJ20 N/A off ebay for relatively cheap and call it a day..

Pull the kick panel just below the steering column, and look for the ECU, should be a dull-silver box. Go to ignition on, watch for the blinking light and count the codes (just like old GM, long flash for 10s, short for 1s). My guess would be either a MAF or Coolant Temp Sensor

With the TT Legacy parts, I imagine they're from a 00-04? Probably from a BH5? The fronts should work on the lower mount (fairly standard among the Subaru parts) but I don't know about the upper part. If the shaft diameter is the same as the GC8 Impreza (93-01), then EA82 mounts should work. As for the rear, no. The rear setup is no where near the same on the BE Legacy as the EA82...

IDK about the new ones, but on the GG impreza, it was unplugging the plug at the module and jumpering one of the circuits because DRL module would also control normal headlight operation. Are the DRL just dim headlights?

Jesek, do you have more detailed pictures of the small device circled in red?? That's the Speedo optical sensor/pickup thing I need to emulate. Where do those wires (or one wire) plug into on the dash? Or do they go into another harness? What about the red/white and yellow wires?

UPDATE: started a "build" thread for it and the ensuing stuff. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149279-standalone-8586-digital-dash/ Also, 89 Civic (DX) with EFI, ECU plugs (all 3) fit exactly for the black 16/20 pin connectors and the 20-pin white/clear connector in case you need replacements.

UPDATE: I started looking for pigtails to use so I don't have to cut/modify the cluster in ANY way. So I went searching knowing that JECS made just about everything for Japanese car makers in the 80s/90s, so I went to my local Pull A Part and started looking at the few 80s stuff they had currently. After some searching and heartbreak, I found an 89 Civic Sedan (DX) with EFI has the BANG on connectors for the combined/black 16/20 pin and the 20 pin white plug. Pull the 3 piece plug from the ECU, located below the glove box, under the carpet of the pass. side footwell. 3 down, 1 to go!

Since I'm not sure where to put this, I figured here would be a good place since it'll contain useful information. Also, it's sort of like retro fitting. I'm picked up this beautiful 85/86 Digital Dash from Suberdave for next to nothing, and now that I don't have EA82, I figured it'd be a cool bar decoration. In the following posts, I'll try to outline it the best I can and/or progress pics. Enjoy!

These are perfect! Thanks Gloyale! and also a big thanks to jono for the email/scans. The other question I have is what sort of wave the VSS (A/D converter on the odometer) outputs and if it connect to pin 13 like the diagram seems to indicate or does it connect to the random Yellow or Red/White wires I have not associated with any of the plugs. EDIT: I do not have the "meter case" that the FSM talks about, where the odo and analog/digital converter assembly is located. I have just the digital cluster/microprocessor section of the dash. Is the VSS a square wave? (I would believe it is as what good would a triangle or sine wave be for a speedometer? And the ignition pulse signal (aka Tach) would be a square wave as well, yeah? I can grab these wave generators to produce the needed signals for increasing RPM and Speed read outs on the dash..

Then he'll be in here showing off his new bicycle!

IIRC, a facelift (post 91) Legacy, you could get them, but was an option (like ABS). Probably in the L trim and above. Unless the insurance company is giving them a major savings for having ABS and Airbag (which is likely), show them the crash tests for the first gen Lego and even the Loyales. The Legos are tanks.

Even if a full dash harness diagram is not available, is there a possibility that some of these circuits run on 5V (like some modern dashboards)? I can see the smaller, 16/20 pin plugs being <12V as they are very small (similar to the ECU pins) but I don't recall there being a "signal box" in the digi dash setups (ref: my 86 XT). It just fed right from the sensors themselves. I also have Nippondenso's contact info for the USA. Think they could be any help?

Besides the mounting differences, I believe the spline count and diameter are also different.