86 Wonder Wedge

Ah, this "standalone" box is just the enclosure I plan on housing it in along with the signal and DC generator to power the dash board. The back of the dash has a 17-pin clear plug, a 20-pin pigtail plug with a singular yellow wire and a singular red/white wire, then a combined black plug with separate 16-pin and 20-pin sections (both car-side plugs are separate, but will plug into the same socket on the board).

Trying to set-up a standalone box for this beautiful 85 orange digi dash, but have no idea what pins do what. The 90 and 89 FSMs do not help (as they have the analog and/or green digi dash hookups) and I do not want to kill this dash. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Are you sure it's a dead pump? Could be a CAS or fuel pump driver module in the ECU..

What did it end up being? Bad valve or wiring problem?

If he's "the" subaru guy, then he must have thought they started in 1990. He can, especially if he's worried about breaking bolts, not getting replacement parts or having you take him to the bank under warranty work because he's not confident enough to handle the job. I've had a few "subaru guys" around town refuse to do the 25D headgaskets and 3.0 spark plugs strictly based on hassle.

There is actually a special bullitin published for firefighters/EMTs about Subaru's "3 rings of safety". In the newer Subarus (late 90s and up), the boron steel rods hidden in the B pillar were so strong, they advised them NOT to cut the pillars because it could take HOURS to cut through the pillars. [http=http://moojohn.com/subaru/extract.pdf]Source(Good read)[/http] I think is also boasts a 2x load rating for rollover protection? (Roof structure can support 2x the car's own weight if flipped over!)

You could find a 90-95 Legacy, 2.2L and FWD automatic (kinda rare, but they did exist). But as has been said, EXTREMELY involved with wiring, swapping trans crossmembers and more wiring. Just.... wiring.

I thought I had a bad fan at first, but the fan only trips when the radiator temp rises too high or the low side A/C pressure is too high (which is why it's called a trinary switch). It's really only meant as back-up cooling. In the 2+ years I had my 91 sedan, it only came on twice: Hot summer day (95+) with the A/C on full tilt at a long light and when I had the A/C on (testing cooling ability) in the garage with a warm car, warm day. Normally, I could let the A/C run on a decent day and let it idle and the mech fan kept the temp normal, easily.

If you can wait a few days, I'd grab the ball joints from a dealer online (will save you a good bit on NICE, OEM ball joints). Grabbed mine at ~20 each. Then grab some nice Moog or Raybestos Prof. stuff off rockauto.com Like up above, if it has a higher mileage and the inners flop around (or sound like a dislocated shoulder), then I'd do the inners too.

FINALLY got around to working on assembling/cleaning the rear suspension for the 4WD swap (from an 88 wagon). Got the crossmember coated with OSPHO (LOVE that stuff) and the trailing arms. Got the backing plates banged mostly straight, caliper rebuilt (found the awesome Raybestos kits on eBay with the seals, boots and bleeder cap) and the GL-10 wagon DOES have the 34mm pistons. Cleaned and greased the slides and new Centric rotor, Bendix ceramics.

Even then, that's 91 and 95 RON. Most of the pumps around here (if not most of the states) the octane is R+M/2 a.k.a AKI and 85 AKI is about (90 RON) So you've got about the same as the states get. 87 AKI and 91 AKI. The average right now is ABOUT USD $3.80/ USgal and most suppliers are also running E10 which is not that great anyway (they are testing E15 in some areas and a few mistaken fuel stations were dispensing the E15 as E10 and E15 is NOT recommended for non-OBDII cars.) Are they pumping E10 down under? or is it closer to E5 or E0?

Honestly, if VERY careful, I've done it without removing the bearing retainer ring (the cog-looking ring by the stub shaft) with a right angle pick and a flat bladed screwdriver. When installing, make sure you tap the new seal in at the same depth the old one came out. There is no backstop for it!

short update, I've pumped more R12 into the system, and the low side stays a bit higher and the high side will climb and if I keep cycling the compressor manually (A/C on and off via the button) the pressures will stay in the appropriate zones. However, upon inspection, I noticed there was damage to the pulser in front of the clutch (some of the pick-up coil is exposed) and I NOW believe that the "Belt saving system" is in effect. The car can't or doesn't see the compressor is spinning at the same RPM and will deactivate the clutch to save the belt (the A/C module is assuming the compressor is locked). I unplugged the pulser to observe how it acted and it cycled for the exact same time as if the pulser is plugged in. I also verified the trinary switch is NOT causing the problem by backprobing the connector and the circuit was still complete when the compressor disengages. So the question is, does anyone have a spare pulser I can buy/try?

IIRC, 7 is a calibration code (i.e. SPFI, Cali emissions) and not an actual fault code. Checking the codes w/o any connectors connected will display drive-ability codes or active CEL codes. Hooking the green connectors together by the fuel filter under the hood might bring up a few non-critical codes and connecting the white connectors next to the green ones (white connected only), then the LED will display old codes. I had an intermittent code 34 (EGR solenoid) before it finally gave up and the solenoid failed. Might just be having a good day with this one and there are "no problems"

Calling A/C techs... I had a theory about the problem, but I'd like to confer before proceeding. A/C system was working last 2 years, but now it only cycles for ~10 seconds, then shuts off until I cycle the A/C (or defrost) off/on. Does this every time, no matter how long I wait between A/C cycles. Belts are tight, no clutch slippage (that I can observe) and the engine DOES idle up when running (pulser is gapped to spec) Hooked up the R-12 gauge and there were the readings: Engine at EOT, system off: Low side: ~50 psi HIgh side: 55 psi System cycling: Low: drops to ~0 psi quickly High: raises to ~75-85 and holds After cycle: Low: raises to ~55-60 psi High: drops to ~60 psi I added less than 5oz of R12, but same result, only the high side raises slightly, but the low raises when the system is not cycling. Before I add (or maybe waste if the receiver/drier needs replaced) any more, I just wanted to confirm that it just might be low on R12 and the trinary switch is deactiviating due to low pressure.

Yes, turbo crossmember needed. Or modify NA for pipe clearance. For engine management, you could run the XT engine harness to the ECU, and either find a place in the engine bay (least recommended due to elements) or stuff it under the dash and just run the required power/grounds to the ECU. Sort of like 2 systems. One for EM and the other for body control (dash, windows, lights, ect).

You can pull the distro out and move it over a tooth to bring it back "in range". Even then, did you check the timing (what number is it now)? Are you running premium? I'd also check the injector seals (injector to manifold) for leaks/cracks. I've seen that be a BIG problem on old injectors, especially with the increased ethanol in the gasoline..

Good news, ladies and gents. in case you were dreading that code 34 (EGR Solenoid circuit) and can't find a good replacement? Well, they ARE still available, even though most parts houses tell you they aren't. Cheapest I found was Amazon, $47. Brand new, OEM Hitachi, same part numbers, stamps and even wire colors. Hitachi SLV0001 or 14774 AA101 (on the box) Amazon had number W0133-1624136. Pics to come later.

Finally got around to diagnosing my code 34, ended up being a bad solenoid (infinite resistance across the coil) so I did some hunting and found OE Hitachi is still available, and on Amazon no less! $47 for an exact replacement, brand new. Same part numbers and even has the Hitachi and Fuji stamps on them.

IIRC, there are two pressure sensors on the pass side by the air cleaner. One is for the turbo light and the other is for FP cut-off (if the pressure goes too high). Make sure you didn't swap plugs (which IDK if that's possible) if you disturbed them. Other than that, there should be a vac diagram under the hood...

Were you burning coolant before the HGs were replaced?

He can drive it indefinitely in FWD w/o a driveshaft hooked to the diff (leaving the front half in as an oil seal, essentially). This is how it essentially works anyway in FWD mode. However, without the engine turning the input shaft, I believe you can starve the trans and Tcase of splash lubrication if you leave the rear shaft connected and spinning while towing. (Not that you were going to do this, just FYI)

Check the fusible links by the Coolant bottle. Also, does the CEL come on when you hit ignition power? See if it's throwing any codes.

Could be trans fluid... Or coolant... Smell? Fluid levels good?

Well, scored today. Got a low mileage PT4WD trans/shifter/solenoids, driveshaft, rear subframe, axles, diff, front axles and spindles/LCA/strut rods, AND a turbo cradle from 300. And its clean. And the rear frame has the sway bar. Loyale's getting 4wd soon.