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86 Wonder Wedge

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Everything posted by 86 Wonder Wedge

  1. You know... that seems plausible... All 4 clusters I have here are from 90-92 Loyales.. hahaha
  2. A loyale with an oil light and not a gauge..? THAT is the real mystery...
  3. Ryan, by AC current, I meant taking a DVM (digital volt meter) to the battery, set it in AC Volts mode, and see if it reads anything. Even 0.5VAC will throw the ECU off. I had this same problem in mine when my alternator was dying.
  4. There should only be the one on the side, the radiator fan switch. The new radiators will probably come with an extra plug to plug the other hole in the pass. side radiator tank.
  5. If possible. take a compressed air can/nozzle to the back of the alternator and give it a good shot. I've found there to be 1M times more brush dust on the reman Maxima alternators than I EVER had on my stock EA82 alts. I've found the brush dust (which is conductive, think graphite) will short out the diodes and/or VR and only allow the thing to put out ~11V or worse, start pushing AC voltage (not good) I'd say it's the alternator. Also, did you use the old single V-belt pulley on the new alternator? Did you file down the spacer to maintain proper pulley alignment?
  6. Have you checked for play in the distributor and/or rotor shaft? Also check for any AC voltage present in the system. This will also cause havok in the system.
  7. Welp, put a down payment on an 86 GL-10. Needs some love (paint, dings), but rust free, PT4WD, LSD. and had extra doors, grille, wheels and a complete 89 EA82T/FT4EAT drivetrain (from intake to all 4 hubs/subframes/diff ect) Going to pick it up sometime in the next week or so.
  8. They sell a can of the freeze-off stuff at most auto houses now. About 6 bucks, should cool down the HLA enough to get it past the ridge. Otherwise, the head-in-the-oven idea is clever..
  9. GMB pumps are pretty good quality, but I found an OE Atsugi. You're best best at one (even though not marketed as one) is from Beck/Arnley. Most of the time they are just reboxed other brand (like ACDelco) I've seen MANY pumps from BA come as Aisin, Atsugi or GMB. But I would check the gasket first, unless you watch it welling up from the weep hole on top..
  10. Good to hear! Its just a fantastic feeling of accomplishment when it works. And for your old harness, if I pay shipping, would you send it my way? Could use a practice harness..
  11. But sharing the same expansion rate, won't they match each other? And the bolts and the holes in the intake don't have THAT large of diameter difference. And since the gaskets are a negligible thermal barrier, the heat at the head/intake interface is the same... I'm not seeing how the intake can shift (grow) differently enough to disturb the gaskets...
  12. I've only had the gen 2 and 3, but did they change the turbo between the generations? Both of mine had the same.. Or just the CHRA (for the oil/coolant lines)?
  13. DING DING DING. This is exactly what happened to mine. I saw the angle at which mine was plugged in (nearly perpendicular to the main harness) and I could see it was only a matter of time. You can back-out the the wire-ends from the connector and wiggle out the plug so you can repair the wire. I added about 2" to both so I could route it better and relieve the stress. If you wiggle it back and forth (lightly), you can get the CEL to come on and off and the valve to work. And I did the same thing. It took me several days to find that sucker.
  14. Honestly, I've had 50/50 with the felpros.. I've had the graphite covered in the box and the cardboard. Haven't had problems with either, once the surfaces were prepped correctly. Wait, wait, wait. I understand that the aluminum expands and contracts, but assuming it's not the plastic intake, but being made of the same material, both having coolant run through them (at least on the EA82 SPFI), bolted together... How does the intake move, let alone enough to disturb the gasket?
  15. There isn't an age exemption down under? In the states, 25+ is exempt from the DOT requirements (antique vehicle) and in Ohio Swapped out the radiator a few days ago.. the bottom brace had started to rust, crushing the pass. side tank and causing a leak.. Was sad because that original Calsonic went 148K and 22 years. Still in good shape too, but an original replacement was $230. The aftermarket one was 70. Not a bad design, but I wasn't crazy about the mandatory trans cooler.. Anyway, must hunt down this intermittent steering/chassis vibration.. Suspect even lift at high speed since it really only happens at 65+...
  16. rockauto.com Stupid cheap, fast. Order the Fel-Pros, I've never had a problem with them.
  17. IIRC, someone posted on here the dressed weights of the EJ series and they were all within several kg of each other. So dropping the money on an EJ20 (NA) from Japan isn't exactly necessary. Also, my Subaru parts girl (OEM stuff) say anything not USDM or SOA is NOT easy nor cheap to get a hold of (like coil packs for the COP setups, ECUs, AVCS parts, ect) and she's gotten me things that were "discontinued". However, a low mileage EJ motor in some parts (Like ANYWHERE not the PNW) is more expensive than a JDM import. Long and short, an EJ22 swap is easiest, well documented and can me maintained.
  18. I had this nearly exact same problem, only mine would die on lift-off throttle, hard start in the morning, ect. Threw the IACV code from the ECU, tested the valve, had good 12V at the plug, good ground at the ECU, ect. Came down to testing the harness and it turned out I had a poor/intermittent connection at the IACV plug. The harness side had a bad ground (to ECU) inside the plug. Repaired the harness, no problems. Also, make sure the fuse is still removed from the A/C circuit (the little holder near the HVAC vacuum canister). Otherwise it will try to idle up whenever the defrost is on.
  19. Upgrading the braking system on these is unfortunately not straightforward. In order to increase braking capacity, you can either increase the diameter of the rotor, increase the swept area or for longevity, increase the heat dissipation/cooling ability of the system. On these captive-rotor systems, it's difficult to change out the rotor since no other manufacturer used the same hub and bolt pattern for the discs and converting them would require changing the whole spindle. The other option would be to increase the swept area which means using larger pads, which means larger calipers. Larger calipers means different brackets and a different master cylinder. I HAVE been looking at honda accord/civic captive rotors from the 90s to see if the bolt pattern would be the same, the discs are more available and larger from my specs... So the brackets would be the only thing we'd have to change... it's a work in progress. Anyway, short answer, no. The brakes are what we've got unless you upgrade the base design.
  20. What are you describing as "shards"? Like rice sized pieces or glitter looking specs? And when the mechanic did the compression test on No.1, he had already replaced the timing belt and retimed the cams correctly? And assuming the crank/cam alignment was correct, he does know the cam alignment marks are NOT TDC for the EA82, yes? TDC (on the compression stroke) is the ONLY time the valves will be closed and you can perform a leakdown test. Find a different mechanic.
  21. I personally haven't worked with the Sachs struts before, but I believe they might be a rebadged Tennaco (Monroe) strut (Sachs is similar to Beck/Arnley). I do have KYB struts on my Loyale (the GR-2s) and they fit and work great. Slightly stiffer than the Monroes that were on there, but does liven-up the handling a bit.
  22. I'm going to have to disagree with you there... Primarily because A1C does not reman alternators and secondarily, because even this Hitachi-reman (the OES) failed. I don't use cheap parts on my cars. However, I will say the pulley alignment was off 2.5 degrees due to the pulley swap, creating the potential for bearing failure, there was zero shaft play. I'll let it remain a mystery as to why the rectifier has failed on this one and the VR failed on the other two. Also, while A1C doesn't particularly put out a BAD product, but having a LARGE inventory of A1C remans in my store, conservatively less than 20% of them are reman'd in the USA. The only item I can vouch for being made in the USA is their new master cylinders. Their brake calipers however are not impressing anyone around here.
  23. Update 2: Problem's back but fixed it again. Thought I had it licked, but the problem has appeared again, but to a lesser degree. Now only happened below 3K RPM. voltage was starting to become erratic, under 12V under 3K RPM and over 12V above 3500 RPM. However, the car would behave normally when voltage was under 12V. Took it home, hooked up the multimeters, one for VAC and VDC. Ran the car and sure as hell, as soon as the VDC picked up, the VAC spiked to 2VAC! VDC dropped and VAC was under .05 . Long and short, the 3rd Maxima alternator was pumping out VAC and screwing up my ECU. Swapped on the original, 130K mile alternator and have had zero problems. So far, ~100 mi on this setup with no problems. Car runs smoother, no more weird harmonics and the gas mileage seems to be up from the past few weeks. TL;DR Another reman'd Maxima alternator was spiking VAC into the system causing erratic behavior. Original alternator swapped back on, zero problems so far.
  24. Waiting for my parts to come in to make a USB to SSM cable so I can have factory diagnostics on the laptop! Much cheaper than the $400 or so people are asking for a semi-complete SSM setup.. O.o All in all, the parts only ran me $30... can't complain.
  25. Honestly, Subaru still sells the OEM boots (correct for 2WD/4WD and inner/outer). They run about 14-16 each? (approx) through an online OEM dealer. But my Beck/Arnley boots are holding up well, even though the clamps they give you are the inferior band clamps. Go to NAPA to grab some OEM style stainless CV clamps.
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