86 Wonder Wedge

Those vacuum lines look like the lines for the 4WD solenoids (which you won't be using in your vw bug, I imagine). You can eliminate those lines by plugging them at the source or looping them back together. Leaving these unplugged will probably cause the engine to run poorly.

Damn that's deep! And so I thought I licked it by burping it.. waited till I saw the bubbles, released the pressure into the overflow and big, gulping bubbles, but no fluid level increase.. So I refilled the radiator (only took a pint or so from when I started at full) then went on a short drive around the neighborhood.. Nothing more than 190. Stopped, and checked.. no change in the fluid level or any bubbles in the overflow. So I took it out unto the main road, rose quickly to 210, hovered for a second then climbed.. Got it home and found the overflow filled to the brim.. released the pressure and nothing but hot air... I'm starting to think HG... but I'm going to flush the radiator before I pull it out

The Lisle tester is a tube filled with a pH sensitive fluid that turns from blue to green/yellow when sealed with the radiator and drawing(vacuuming) the gases/air of the radiator in. If there are exhaust gasses present (CO, CO2, ect) it will change color. (The color change confirmed by "sniffing" the tail pipe). Even directly after witnessing the bubbles in the reservoir and radiator, I "sniffed" them as they emerged until the system was in vacuum. Never did it change color. Not even close. While I admit this is not a definitive test, with that level of displacement and pressure, if it were exhaust gasses, they should've shown, no? There is also no smell of exhaust fumes or fuel coming from the radiator or overflow

^^ That's what I was leaning towards (not HGs). It is also the original Calsonic and the coolant coming out didn't look too good... Out it comes and off to the rad-shop for steam-cleaning..

Wait, you can learn with pants... ON? What?

Alright guys, I'm trying to sort out my friends 99 Outback (EJ25D, 5MT). 187K, original HGs, timing has been done some time ago. Having heard all the problems with the EJ25D and the infamous headgasket failure. Symptoms: - System does not leak externally - Car has heat the entire time - Car does not overheat at idle or if I drive easy from cold. I can drive 50+ miles this way) - Once I spank it (5K+ RPM) the bottle level increases and at idle, I can see tiny bubbles bubbling in the over flow tank. Maybe 1 bubble every second. - If I drive it hard enough, the bottle overflows and the temp spikes (confirmed with my scanner, 255+), fan kicks on Facts: - Compression check (All cylinders within 5%, hot and cold) - Exhaust gases NOT found in the radiator or overflow (using the Lisle tester, both hot and cold) - If left to cool, it will bring some of the coolant back into the radiator, but not back to the original level - Timing belt seems older and some skid marks on the back. All of the pulleys rotated fine, but I did not check the water pump. Tensioner arm seemed to have SLIGHT slack (translational movement) - Upon refilling the system, I filled the water crossover first (upper hose) to the brim, then the radiator - New radiator cap - New Subaru thermostat (PO had de-cored it to prevent overheating, I imagine) Now, if there are no exhaust gases present, and it does not overheat if I drive it old-man style, are the headgaskets still at fault? Could this be a water pump failure? Clogged radiator? When filling the system (from draining the radiator and thermostat/water pump) I only used about 1 USgal... too little? I'm starting to love my EA82 more and more.. 8O lol Thanks!

Also check the bundle of connectors behind the kick panel just below the hood release. I've had some WEIRD auto seatbelt problems (like self aware, you-leave-when-I-want-you-to stuff) when I first got my EA82 sedan and it turned out the 10 pin plug was only partially plugged in (must have kicked the connector to release some how?). Plugged that puppy back together and no problems since then. That is also the harness for the rear tails, dome, Driver's side windows and locks and a few others, I think..

Are all of the parts of the cable on the fork still there (like the cone seat, ect)? How "not engaging" is it? close? no where near it?

Not to get into the middle of this, but some EGR valves cannot simply be actuated by applying vacuum (essentially a "bench" test) and I'm not including the GM (among others) ones that are all electronic. While EGR is by no means required to maintain, operate an engine or even improve emissions, a properly functioning system has ZERO negative impact upon the operation of the engine. Who doesn't want better efficiency, longer component life and reduced emissions? That being said, different engines deploy and integrate this system differently. On my 81 Firebird (with the CCC), EGR only opens at part throttle, at operating temp, while moving (from the FSM). They go on to explain this is because the O2 sensor needs to be up to operating temperature (which only happens after sustained, off-idle RPMs) and so the engine is up to operating temp. If you run the EGR while the engine is in open-loop rich mode, it will cause unmetered air/unburnt fuel back into the intake and cause unstable operation. I surmise the Subaru system is similar (due to the unheated O2, the SPFI and unmetered exhaust gas flow). Back to OP: That's the EGR solenoid. It allows vacuum to the valve to open it when the ECU deems necessary. When it closes, it vents to atmosphere through the small, black cap so the valve closes again.

The codes only display from the LED on the side of the ECU. The only code you should be getting (assuming no codes) is a single digit.. (like 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5. That is the ECU identity code) Anything else is a set trouble code. A malfunctioning CAS will also not pulse the injector. However, this will pop a code if the ECU isn't picking up a pulse signal when trying to start or run. You also won't continue to hear the FP run. Check the rotor to make sure it's spinning and isn't floppy on the shaft.

94 Turbo 1.8? Not from the U.S then.. but it shouldn't matter. Like ruparts said, could be a backwards pressure plate. But just making sure, the 85 trans you took out was 4WD and you're putting in an 86 4WD trans, correct? Did you replace the cable?

I must also caveat my statement by saying I only think playing with an EA82 should be done knowing full well you are probably going to lose money and spend more in the process. This should also not be your "I need to go the hospital right now so please start and drive" transportation. This is only a play-thing. If you want a reliable, powerful and easy to maintain platform, the EJ is the only LOGICAL way to go. With that being said, I still think the EA82 has good bones and can stand some higher-stringing. If anything else, it's a good platform to experiment, play and a good reason to crawl around the junkyard looking for things that normally shouldn't be applied to this situation. Worst case, you learn something in the process and have some fun in the process (even if you do spend some money. Afterall, isn't that is what money is for?) And carpe: I don't like having to monitor one more fluid level or buying another fluid, but the real-estate up front for heat exchangers is crowded anyway (assuming we keep the condenser, some of us like quick defrosts.. ) and the dosage is variable and you can always dump more in case a need arises (like a spiking EGT). And the MPFI heads/manifold is mostly for the individual injectors and the fact they are close to the port (meaning we have to worry less about high SC discharge temps causing a detonation in the intake). This COULD be done with the SPFI, assuming there is a way to seal the pod chamber against vacuum leaks and then positive pressure. I've even thought about removing the butterfly from the TB (just leaving the housing) and running the MPFI TB infront of the SC for better response and a real vacuum source (for brake booster, vac reference and HVAC controls). Can also throw meth/alcohol injectors above each runner... hmm..

I'll also say this is a needed topic mostly because of the lack of available cheap EJ motors around these parts. (Pretty much anywhere that is NOT the PNW) Around Ohio, the CHEAPEST EJ motor is a core EJ25D for $200. Oh, you want a running one? How about an EJ18 with 250K. $400. An OBDII EJ22 with 190K? $650. And that's WITHOUT the accessories. Or flywheel. And I have to pull it myself. The point is, sometimes an EJ swap is just not something people want to/can invest in. Especially when insurance companies will pay AT MOST 1500 for an EA82 incase something happens. You've already lost money and now are without a car. For the topic, however, an ULTIMATE EA82 build... From looking at FHI's attempts and history, the availability of parts and interchangeability, the better (best?) option might be to seeking a FI path. Since the heads are the weakest link and cannot draw more than a certain amount, we're going to have to ram some more air down it's throats. Supercharged (SC12 or 14 or even an Aisin blower as came stock on the Subaru kei cars, or something with a divorced BPV) meth injection EA82 MPFI heads, intake (non-spider), injectors and sensors Relocated TB Headstuds Turbo ECU? (Megaquirt would probably work best) 2x core EA82 radiator Oil cooler (and divorced trans cooler for the auto guys) colder plugs The trick to long EA82 life is cooling and knock control. Since the EA82's head cooling is NOT the best, we can help offset the head/combustion temps with meth and fuel-cooling. Most efficient? No. But lots of fun, plenty of torque for around town and hills and should hold together.

Make sure you also play with the connections of the injector and IAC when this no-start occurs. I went nuts for weeks tracking down an intermittent IAC code and a fall-on-her-face idle before I found a frayed wire INSIDE the connector.. Any codes/CEL by chance?

What filter did you use? I've noticed the WIX filters (and any subsequent WIX-based filters like Microguard, NAPA Gold, ect) have too large of a sealing base circle when sealing against the mounting plate. There is only approximately 1/16" of sealing surface on that seal causing it to even leak at rest.. Even then, those seals are tested to 150psi, IIRC in the industry standards... I might also pull the OPRV on the oil pump itself to make sure the spring or plunger isn't stuck... Lastly, there are 2 OPRVs in the heads (one per head) at the end of the HLA galley. COULD be those or one of them are failing to open...

As has been said, the cam is different, but the tower is not. However, if youre going to drop a turbo cam on a non turbo motor, id suggest you do it for both sides. The valve timing is different IIRC..

IIRC, the turbo cam is different as is the distro (before/after 87? ) but the HLAs, valves, rockers, ect should be the same

Using the EA82 radiator is going to be your easier choice. You will either have to find a copper/brass one and have different hose ends brazed on to match the EJ hoses (good luck finding a copper/brass) OR just use adapters for the EJ hoses onto the EA radiator. The 2 core should handle the EJ22 just fine.

Hybrid axles. EJ inners/EA outers

Doing the entire EJ engine/trans is not bad, although losing the DR of the EA box is sad. You WILL, however, gain fulltime AWD. Add in a LSD out back and you got a pretty good grip machine. Swapping in the EJ trans is not terrible (infact, XT6 crossmembers bolt into the EA body, if you can find them..) and it's a matched set to the engine, more reliable, and parts are a-plenty. For the long haul and fun-factor, an EJ swap will suit you well. However, it will take up some space in the trunk if you're keeping the spare inside..

$1300 is pretty fair for any running, driving car. HOW good of a deal it is relies upon how much you want it and how long you plan on keeping it.. And like any good story, the car itself will tell you everything you need to know... but the Subaru shop that did the work I'm sure did a fine job, but if it was the same shop that advised the owner to change the engine, when anyone who knows the EA82T knows it's just a simple headgasket job, not a new motor.

This is what I was wondering too... what transmission are you using? an adapted EA82 box? or the matching EJ box? I've been contemplating this swap as well and looking at the gear ratios, the ratios out of a 2nd gen Legacy match near perfect to the EA box gears.. but the gears were designed for the EA... I wonder what the EJ18 gears were in the impreza.. The peak HP and TQ on the EJ18 were nowhere near the same on the EA82,,,,

I'd see if the ECM is picking up any problems (like no crank signal). Pull the cover from under the steering column and look for the hole on the side of the ECM (gray, square box, about 40cm wide). It will have a small, red LED. Turn the key to the RUN position and watch that light. Record the flashes. A "long" flash is the 10s and the "short" flash (more like a blink) is the 1s. If there is a fault with the CAS, the ECM will pick it up when trying to start.

I thought I had a dead motor after a headgasket job, but it turned out the HLAs weren't pumping up (stuck in the bore after reassembly). Before going nuts, I'd do a compression check. Worst case, there is no oil flow to the HLAs on that side (cam case o-ring failure). You can pop off the valve cover gasket and see if oil is coming out of the relief hole for the HLA galley. It might get a bit messy tho..

I might be coming into another EA82 sedan soon, and this is what I want to do with it. Subscribed with interest! Rally/RallyCross I think is more fun than Solo or drag... and it seems it can be done cheaper/less invested than other forms and still be competitive... now just to find a group in NEOhio...