bork
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Posts posted by bork
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On 2/4/2006 at 12:42 PM, Commuter said:
This question comes up a lot.
The post by ferret in the following thread sums it up quite nicely (at least for North American 4 cyl engines). Thanks ferret.
Is my engine interference, or non-interference?
There are other posts that go deeper, ie whether pistons hit valves, or valves hit each other, or both. I don't have a link for that, but if someone knows of one, msg me and I'll add it to this post.
Commuter
Anyway of getting this link to work? I get a message stating, "invalid IPB path"
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nvu, thank you!!! but can I access everything with only the throttle body removed? That would be much easier. Or does the entire intake need removed? Are the hoses special? Any forms or bends?
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I can barley see the spray. Looks hard to access. Any advice how to replace that little 6mm ish size hose? It looks like it come down from a little straight barbed fitting. I tried a search but after 5 pages, my eyes starting to get heavy. Any other little nuisance leaks or known problems, like this I should also be addressing?
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Thank you all so much for answers. Does look doable but I'm a little worried my big fat arm, wrist ,fingers wont contort enough to get that lower fastener, with the hoses in the way. I noticed some search replies were referring to a relay mod , but links are so old they dont work. I didn't see anything in the stickies. Anyone have any good link?
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My kids 1996 impreza wagon might need the starter replaced. I'm going to check connections and relay in morning. I have an old spare starter somewhere, but how hard is it to change out? Special tool combo set up or any other things need to be moved or relocated? I was hoping to replace in parking lot instead of having towed. I did the beating on starter and the starter would grind over slowly. The battery already been swapped out and voltage checked ok and cables look good.
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Thank you all ! Funny I did squeeze the upper hose an heard a crunch & thought maybe there's an old rusty spring in there. I think I best change them both & be done with it. Should I go OE Subaru or aftermarket?
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Looking to do a flush out since I got this car approx 2 years ago with only 52k miles on it. Do I refill with green prestone or special Sub blue stuff? Any supplemental additives need added?
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I saved this to my pc file. I don't know who quoted it? But do most of you agree with the statement below? 05-09 would only leak oil externally? So I might be ok buying a 05-09 with 250k miles on it and not worry about coolant getting in oil and ruining engine? Especially if no record of HG change.
Quoted by unknown
"the whole thread and what everyone has said is pretty bunk. we are talking the 05-09 here, and they leak oil, not coolant, this is WIDELY known. While we are at it, and an educational, here we go.
89-94 EJ22 really had no head gasket issue, the early EJ22 was the BEST engine Subaru ever made, this era included the 91-94EJ22T, the BEST OF THE BEST Subaru right there in the "T" version
95-99 EJ22 not really issue
92-97 EG33, not an issue until after 300k, about the 2nd best engine subaru ever made
3.0, they eventually showed some issue of headgasket, but a good engine all the same
EJ25 to 99 DOHC leaked exhaust gases, into the coolant chamber via a bad design block/head/headgasket-the E25D (dohc) is about the WORST Engine Subaru made, albeit maybe the Justy engine and the 360 engine……
00-04 EJ25 sohc leaked coolant out the block and would run low and overheat if not kept an eye on and run low
05-09 leaked oil, out the bottom. keep oil in them, you are mostly good run oil low, not good
10+ I am not really sure I don't like the new ones and don't usually deal with them at least not yet.
85-94 EA82- it sucked, it had 2 timing belts, and the headgaskets eventually gave out after 100k-not a good engine at all for MANY reasons, including having 2 t belts, and bad gaskets, and low power..
81-87 EA81, not much of a head gasket issue, these are about the third best engine Subaru EVER made" -
My kid is looking for a used subie & I keep asking the seller if any maintenance records? Hoping to find head gaskets already changed out at a dealer. Am I thinking right? Would a change of head gasket at a dealer be a long term fix? How long?
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Sorry if this has been asked, I tried a search but didn't find what I was looking for. Is there such a thing as certain models & years to avoid? (in the range of 1996-2003?) I know the HG are an issue with the 2.5s but what about transmissions etc...? Are they all the same or some lemons out there? I was thinking of trying to get a 2.5 cheap & put a 2.2 in it?
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Sooooo would be prudent to have a dealer do head gaskets, if I could purchase a 98 legacy cheap enough? Is there such a thing as an average dealer flat rate fee to do 2.5 HG?
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OK, I know what you mean by jumper, & flashing dash light because I must do this on my 1995 Honda Odyssey.
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2 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Are you in Canada? EJ22 or EJ25 engine?
Why is the JDM throwing red flags?
You could buy a newer EJ25 block and bolt your EJ22 heads to it. Have a machine shop rebuild your heads or try to buy some lower mileage EJ22 heads.
Subaru even sells new EJ25 motors for $2k. I’m not sure the oldest generation they have but if 00-04 are available tjose would work. Doubt they’d honor the warranty in that application though !
Easiest is an EJ22. In the US any 90-98 EJ22 could be installed in your vehicle. 1996-1998 would be easiest.
90-95 requires: dual port exhaust manifold and bolt your 98 intake manifold onto the 90-95. Then it’ll install.
There are EGR differences too but they can be worked around and often it’s a non issue.
EJ25s have a lot of headgasket issues so after a quarter century it’s difficult to know what you’re getting. I have a good block to sell but distance and logistics no way. Post what you want in parts wanted maybe someone wants some
I see you mention 96-98 the easiest EJ22 to swap in. ( what about the 1999? )My kid has a great running 1999 EJ22 rusted out, Impreza 4dr L model. Could this be put into a 1998 Legacy? If "yes", is there such a thing as an average price to pay to have someone do this? It's going to start snowing here & I don't think I can pull it off myself in time, & outside, since I've no experience in this. And I imagine it will need to be run through inspection, in MD.
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Thank you everyone for the answers, very helpful! The dongle & ph sound like a pretty cool way to go. I wish my old smart phone had more memory room. (one must install an app to make the diagnostics work? right?)
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What is the oldest year I can still purchase & be able to pull codes? And what did one do before code readers? No "check engine light"?
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1 hour ago, idosubaru said:
I was right next to you yesterday in McHenry catching some yellow perch and pickerel.
Hahaha Thats great! I too just got some perch but in Wisconsin. Fridays = fish in WI.
Yum !
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Tired of calling around & wasting time. Just got back from junk yard & found 4 decent looking used tires. $20 each but the must have them installed. After thinking about it , & possible age of them, (should have noted the DOT stamp) Probably spending approx $200 on questionable tires, I decided to scrap the idea. Then I just remembered we have a beat up winter car with studs on it, & the summer tires are in the shed. ! doh! But they are 15" not the 14" on car. But I compared ratios & I cant see why they wont work .(difference is .4" wider on the 15").
Here is the handy chart for someone elses use. & thank you all for your input!! https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/
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Thanks, I found one on Ebay but has a lot of tread. If I find a local used tire with same circumference, but different brand, that is a no-no? What happens? clutch plates are slightly constantly slipping to compensate, building heat and wearing out tranny & diff?
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Thank you all! If I do the FWD fuse, how long can I stay in that mode? indefinitely? Also in FWD, wouldn't it be better to install the 2 new tires up front? Viscous rear? Its for a 1996 Impreza wagon.
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I kinda figure its not a good idea to mix tires because of the awd, but any tips on how to get by? Money a bit tight at moment.
I tried a search but seem to get everything else than what I want to find.
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I replaced my kids rusted out fill tube with a junk yard IIRC forester tube. They seem to look the same. BUT having trouble filling without handle clicking off. Anyone have more info on the valve ferret was talking about or able to get link to show? Also when I tried filling at the pump I could hear the gas slowly filling up tube (the gurgling flow noise gets a higher pitch as gas backs up in tube)before it clicks off in a couple of seconds.
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Sorry to drag out an old thread but my 1999 Impreza L 4 door, blower will not work when in the 20s. drive the car a bit (15min) and the blower will work. (warms up a little to make conatcts work?)Confirmed there is no power to the blower motor when it is not functioning. I'm hoping it is a simple swap out of the relay. I can here it click & sounds like it is up behind instrument cluster toward right side . Should I be able to see it with a mirror ? I have a junker 1995 impreza L 4 door that I took off the panel & pulled out instrument cluster & don't see any relays? Weird? Are they different assemblies? is this what it is supposed to look like? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/intermotor-electrical-relay-r3054/20975789-P?searchTerm=relay
If this is the actual relay shown, looks like the wire connector might have the locking type tab. Meaning I might need two hands up in dash to pull apart connector from relay?
Possible Upgrade
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
"Yes CVT only" meaning avoid these?