bork
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Posts posted by bork
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3 hours ago, lmdew said:
On a warm day, pull all the plastic trim on the inside around the headliner. Remove the headliner and then you will have access to the screws from the inside.
Drill the head off and punch them through or cut them with a die grinder on the inside.
I dont want to take off the rails on roof, just the cross members, that arc from side to side in air.
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The paint shop asked me to remove the cross bars for them, & I said no problem. Now I see maybe a mistake saying that. I'm attempting to remove 8 machine screws holding cross members to rails. got 3 out so far. Screws seem to be stainless steel approx 6mm dia and approx 25 mm long. All broke loose but just spin. The 3 I did get out look as if they might be screwed into a steel plate? The center of screw has a semi smooth center of rust caked in threads. Hopefully if I get the rest of screws out, do the cross pieces just lift off? I have screws out on one side & it doesn't want to come off. Anyone have experience in this area?
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For what its worth, I changed PS fluid in my 97 honda odyssey, & let it get too low while refilling. It made awe-full ,loud growling/whining noise. Filled up canister but was still making noise. I shut off engine and waited, and restarted but noise still there. Took a few days and finally went away. I thought for sure I killed it! Must have been trapped air?
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11 hours ago, brentlysubaru said:
The top spoiler attaches by a couple brackets that are glued on the glass.
That pic is priceless! Thank you! Now I know what I must hunt for, or try to make. I tried to find them in parts break down, without success.
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Thank you all, but I thought the top spoiler attaches to glass, otherwise drilling the frame would be easy. The lower spoiler has studs and little plastic nubs to pop into holes. I just need to take out tailgate interior to install the nuts after I drill.
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I finally scored both OE top & mid spoiler wings. BUT I dont have any hardware except some of the bolts for mid wing which look like I must drill thru back hatch to attach. But the top spoiler attaches how? Is there special glass anchors bonded to rear glass? to be able to bolt to? I cant find anything in the search function and cant find anything in parts breakdowns.
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I spritz diesel fuel/used oil mix with a cheap dollar tree bottle sprayer, in spring, when I drive car up on ramps. One end the the other end. Yes messy & smelly, & wear goggles, but I hate rust & hoping for prolonging the cancer. Good luck! (I've read in spring is best applied because road dust collects in the film over summer & helps hold it for the winter)
I just got a rust free 96 Impreza OB, 51k miles, I plan on treating the area where the rear bumper meets the metal at fender well. Seems they all rust out there. I think it is from the the two parts rubbing together with grit & when salt gets added, it starts rotting. I'm going to pull down bumper at that spot about 1" and apply epoxy to the underside flat spot on metal where the bumper meets. My hope is that once the layer of epoxy is cured & I reseat bumper, it will have a plastic to epoxy surface to rub together, without exposing the metal. Also I will remove the rubber/plastic wheel well edge protectors since I believe they hold corrosive moisture also.
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Hey LEOD,
I have a 99 OBS that needs a motor, and probably a center diff.
The timing belt broke 30K prematurely.
I’m assuming bent valves, and have decided not to resurrect it.
It is a manual and was in my opinion developing torque bind when hot.
Has ~ 225K on it.
Body and interior are in good shape. I'm the second owner.
I’m in northern CA. near the Oregon border,...maybe too far from you.
I’m getting rid of it one way or the other this summer.
If your interested in a shell for you motor PM me.
I wish you were in the NE, cause I have a 99 impezza 2.2 with rusted body but good engine. At 175K no oil burning.
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(1) If towing AT on tow dolly with driveshaft disconnected for 2000 miles, the drive shaft will lay in cradle and will it rub diff? That doesn't sound good if it does touch. Bungee cord it or?
(2) If it dies not touch can I idle on & off dolly, and into garage? How does it attach into tranny? Can it slide out? I might need to pick up car and take to storage for a few weeks, then rent dolly again to finish 1500 mile trip. Avoiding bolting & un-bolting driveshaft to move car on & off dolly.
Too bad there is not a thin bearing with one side raised outer race & other side would have a raised inner race, too slip in between drive shaft & diff with longer bolts.
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US market 1990’s Outback Sports never got the EJ25 from the factory.
Avoid the 99+ EJ22. Get a 1998 or earlier EJ22...or EJ18. .
97-98 only if you’re willing to install a complete OEM or Aisin timing components as theyre interference.
To check engine offerings:
Cars101.com
You can also look up parts on www.car-part.com. You’ll see the available engines listed there for whateber year/model you out in. 2.5 won’t be listed.
You can also look up Subaru parts websites.
Lots of ways to skin that cat.
So if I find a 95 or 95 impreza outback, it is non-interfering?
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I tried to find my answer thru search function, but still confused. I'm searching for a 1995-99? impreza outback sport but I'm not sure about the engine. I want a 2.2, but was a 2.5 an option or did they all come with 2.2? and then switch to 2.5 in 1997ish? Anyone have correct knowledge of such?
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Thank you again.
Junk yard had a used one from a Forester & I had my alternator rebuilder guy test it. Tested fine.
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Thank you, good info.!
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I tried to find a Subie dealer reman alt for 1999 impreza L and the cheapest I found is like $200.00. Cant believe they increased that much since this post less than a year ago.
The re-builder I use said the rectifiers are on back order, approx 10 days. I guess I'll go the junk yard route.
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In my kids car, inside trunk on passenger side, close to wheel well, there is a black 3/8 ish ID hose. For what? Does it have anything to do with fuel venting? We smell fuel sometimes. Filler tube looks ok. 1999 impreza L
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Update, still starting fine.
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This am approx 27degrees and started fine. I did make my kid fill up tank last night.
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I thought the tranny range selector locked out power to starter? Engine still cranks but wont fire.
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2 codes came up, p0135 and p0705. the guy said something about bank 1 oxy sensor, and 2nd is tranny range sensor. Tranny seems to be working fine. Can the oxy sensor cause the nostart condition when cold?
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Dothe scanners that Autozone or Advance auto uses, work good enough to pull the codes? or is it proprietary codes that only Subaru dealers can see?
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If I do trigger CEL, can I reset it easily?
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Runs good when cold when it does start. It looks like there is a maf on intake tube. Where is the fuel relay located? I will check for ETS. (but wouldn't it run poorly cold if ETS suspect?)
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I'm always experimenting with concoctions, & about a month ago tried a little bit of the rattle can FF on some rusty spots on the Honda. I think the 99 impreza wells maybe too far gone. So far the spots on Honda still look like its stuck. Told the family not to run thru car wash.
Alternator issue
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
I got lucky and got a good one from junk yard $40.00. I had alternator re-builder bench test, which he did not want money but I insisted he take something. Make sure you get the right alt., there is differences. I dont remember what the difference was but my rebuilder told me what to look for, & I think the junk yard had a cross over listing as well.