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bork

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Posts posted by bork

  1. Dorman , had the split boots but I think they discontinued, but call them . I just did both inner boots, 1st time for me. Axle nuts came off with not much trouble. I wouldn't want to do outside where you are.Also, If your struts need replacing, now would be the time. BTW I called Gabriel shocks, & spoke to engineer, I asked if KYB makes the subaru fit Gabriels, & he confirmed yes. He also said many companies swap & trade & relabel shocks/struts. Cuts cost on tooling.

  2. been there, done that. it's the axle. stuff it full of grease and you can drive cross country (you'll just need to stuff it a couple of times). GD is right.

     

    i've done this multiple times, i drove two thousand miles from Colorado to Maryland doing this (i bought a tub of grease and made multiple stops). for kicks i rebooted that axle when i got home and it's been fine since then - over two years ago. :headbang: i won't call that normal or a good idea.

     

    the joints are heating up and expansion is causing temperature related interference. it goes away when you stop and let it cool down to ambient temperatures.

     

    Same old joint is still in operation? Original axle/CV? Wow, that means original CVs are that good?

  3. I'm not sure what correct name for this area, tried a search, but not successful. Any how bought the seals at stealership, but they didn't have o rings, & claimed their shop never replaces them.:confused:. Scarey! I'm bummed, hate to go thru all the trouble & then still have a drip due to a little cheap skinny oring. Has anybody done job with old o-ring successful? I dont like gambling! BTW I try to put key words in title so next person in search can find easier.

  4. No idea if your car is a B12 or B13 (btw: it's a good idea to include that information with your post so people don't need to go to gather the information).

     

    That being said, opposed forces can help you out:

    http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_3/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/illustration_3/

     

    There's a good chance the bolt is the same for both chassis

     

    THANK YOU!!! for the link of parts breakdown. Been looking for a good site!:clap:

  5. Lifetime or limited lifetime? The dude behind counter said, "one replacement" for the lifetime, thats the limited part of it." Sorry, I'm leery, I tend to keep my stuff real long time. NAPA, I think lost $ on me, I still have my 1973 dodge van!! Lots of napa goodies!

     

    On edit: just came from Auto zone & they said, Limited Lifetime is life span of my ownership of car, & agreed that Advance Auto is only, one time replacement, for their Limited Lifetime.

  6. I replace rear bearings (yes Forester's too) using the FWD service set from Harbor Freight ($89 or so) - never remove the knuckle. I've done dozens of them. I have yet to have a repeat failure. I use NTN bearings ($34) and the grease that comes with them. New seals too of course.

     

    GD

     

    So HF has the FWD set. Is that what they call it? what does it include? any pic links to such ? Where is the best source for the NTN bearings & the seals?

     

    On edit, are most of the failed bearings dry, inside? If "yes" any way of using a hypodermic needle, to get a few drops of oil into bearing? (to but a little time, if bearings not real loud yet)

  7. Did not see anything in searches. so going fast (about 30-50 mph)thru 2-4" deep puddles, doesn't stall engine? My old 71 ford pinto could spray people like crazy!!!! The thing must have been part fish! I would put auto in low gear & punch it! Guessing puddles were about 4-6" deep & going about 30 mph. (two huge walls of water on both sides):eek: Crazy fun when I was a kid! The ole 73 dogde van was ok in about 1-2", after that it was a gamble.( Going fast, any deeper, better to putt & plow) I think the belts would throw water up on distributor? If it did stall, would not restart. But wait approx 15 minutes & the warm engine would dry itself & start right up.:clap: (trick is, have patience, so you wouldn't crank engine before its dry & kill battery)

  8. Well it sounds like I need maybe both rears. Do the rears seem to go more often? I hate the thought of junk yard parts, might last a while or just a month. OIY. If I buy new bearings & seals, where is best source for quality & good deal? Can I order from a bearing supplier, or best to get dealer only? Are all subies same? I have a 1999 impreza L 4 door.

  9. Well I got a response from Dupont, I dont think their product is used in any boots that I can tell (for subes), by looking at all the post you guys have posted. Otherwise there would be boots being recommended out there that last super long. You would think Dupont would know who they sell their product to? As to promote more usage & product sale. Apparently not enough money to be made or Dupont isn't very proficient, left hand doesnt know what the right hand is doing. I'll check back & see if other companies like GM etc.. have cv boot problems. If theirs last forever, maybe there is a boot we can convert to our fit.

     

    Here's the email I received from Dupont,

     

    "I assume we sell Hytrel into Subaru CVJ boots, but no idea of details for Impreza - could be a DuPont-Toray grade and made in Japan, if it is Hytrel. Best bet is to check with Subaru dealer - we do not make or sell CVJ boots. The garages typically do not replace CVJ boots anymore as it is so much easier (and revenue-generating) to replace the drive axle half-shaft. Most of the after-market for CVJ boots has dried up since 1) Hytrel boots last so long and 2) the replacement half-shaft market typically is using OEM quality boots. On a 1999 vehicle, the boots he is replacing (if in-board - by the motor) are most likely rubber."

     

     

     

     

    Dial DuPont First

    DuPont Engineering Polymers

    950 Stephenson Highway

    Troy, Michigan 48083

    248.583.7908

    248.583.7909 - Direct

  10. Anyone hear of this dupont material? http://www2.dupont.com/Automotive/en_US/news_events/article20091005.html Are the usual boots made of rubber? neoprene, nitril, silicon, EDPM?

    I emailed Dupont & awaiting answer. Where are the billion , long lasting boots, they boast?

    I'm changing my mind about Dorman, looks like they are universal, & 2 piece? (Not very fond of 2 piece, but maybe I'm too old)

  11. Thanks! I was leaning towards Dorman, lifetime warrenteee? Rockauto had a heart next to the name. I'm not familiar with Beck/Arney, but looks like you do. BTW I see something about rebuilt cv axles, I knew a place that regrinds them & installs larger balls. I personally wouldn't go that route, because I would think the hardness is changed on the regrind surface.

  12. wow, thanks for rockauto tip, the boot prices much better. I saw subiepartsforyou, & saw approx $39 per boot & thought foolish? to not change axle, but now I can justify fixing existing axles, they are still quiet. BUT which brand is the longest lasting? I see in search that some aftermarkets were torn in little time. Any name brand known for quality?

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