SubieTrav

My 92 Legacy wagon has an issue with the clutch pedal sticking to the floor when the weather is cold. After driving it a couple of miles it works fine. The clutch has about 7K miles on it. It has always given me problems since having it done. I keep adjusting the cable and it works for a while and then acts up again. It hasn't been as bad after I disconnected the hill holder.

No, I didn't check the fluid level after running it. I heard all that noise and just wasn't going to expect that tranny to work. I fulled it out of the car and returned it. I found another one with the torque converter and got that on. I got it installed yesterday. I swapped the oil pan with the original tranny. The junk yard tranny's are always dented. I thought that might be causing a problem with the pump getting fluid intake. Today I am letting the permatex ultra grey to cure before adding fluid. I'm still curious as to the original tranny only working in 1st and reverse. Since I didn't get charged a core on the last tranny, I'm going to crack it open and see if I can figure out what is wrong. i did find the service manual here http://tinyurl.com/8zr2752 It has only been 20 years since i rebuilt an auto tranny, who knows, I might just have something to take to the metal recyclers someday.

I know junk yard transmissions are a crap shoot. I finally found the receipt and pulled this tranny back out of the car to take it back for exchange. It is suppose to rain today, but is sunny for now, I'm hoping the weather will hold off long enough to get a different trans.

Well, I'm back to square one again. I got the tranny in and everything back together. Filled the front dif and put in most of the tranny fluid along with Trans X, I wanted to run the tranny through the gears to get the fluid up to level. Then to find out the battery was dead, it worked fine just before I disconnected it to r & r the tranny. Took the battery out of my other Legacy and started the car. The car is still up in the air with all 4 wheels off the ground and the FWD fuse is in. Lots of bad noises, sounded like some scraping, buzzing noises. I shut the car off for a minute and restarted it, little less noise but there was still noise coming from the tranny. while I had my foot on the brake I was shifting through the gears, while doing this I was looking at the from left rotor to see that it was moving. It moved fine in R and 1, 2, 3 but when I put it in D, the rotor would slow down and stop, it would start to move again when I stepped on the gas. When I shift out of P, there is a clunk. I checked the codes and got a P0102 and a P1507. I did remove one of the fans to put the 22 mm socket on the front of the motor to align the torque converter to the fly wheel. Since this was a junk yard tranny, I'm guessing either I inherited someone elses problem or I messed something up, could it be the oil pump in the tranny. I still have the original tranny (till I can find the receipt) can I swap out the oil pumps, If so, does the tranny need to come out of the car for this. Does it sound like I should even try to salvage this tranny and just get another one.

Well, I'm back to square one again. I got the tranny in and everything back together. Filled the front dif and put in most of the tranny fluid along with Trans X, I wanted to run the tranny through the gears to get the fluid up to level. Then to find out the battery was dead, it worked fine just before I disconnected it to r & r the tranny. Took the battery out of my other Legacy and started the car. The car is still up in the air with all 4 wheels off the ground and the FWD fuse is in. Lots of bad noises, sounded like some scraping, buzzing noises. I shut the car off for a minute and restarted it, little less noise but there was still noise coming from the tranny. while I had my foot on the brake I was shifting through the gears, while doing this I was looking at the from left rotor to see that it was moving. It moved fine in R and 1, 2, 3 but when I put it in D, the rotor would slow down and stop, it would start to move again when I stepped on the gas. When I shift out of P, there is a clunk. I checked the codes and got a P0102 and a P1507. I did remove one of the fans to put the 22 mm socket on the front of the motor to align the torque converter to the fly wheel. Since this was a junk yard tranny, I'm guessing either I inherited someone elses problem or I messed something up, could it be the oil pump in the tranny. I still have the original tranny (till I can find the receipt) can I swap out the oil pumps, If so, does the tranny need to come out of the car for this. Does it sound like I should even try to salvage this tranny and just get another one.

Finally got the torque converter on the tranny and installed in the car. I read on another forum that some guys were pulling the shaft and sleeve out of the transmission and putting them in the torque converter, then sliding it back together with the tranny. I started to do that method and I realized the spring clip thing on the sleeve was half out and bent. So I just removed it and the torque converter went right in place.

Too bad you aren't closer to Denver, I installed windshields for 14 years. Subaru's are actually easy to replace. If you do install it yourself, don't use silicone to glue it in, silicone has a very high sodium content and will rust you pinch weld.

I discovered that yesterday. I finally decided to go back to the junk yard and get the torque converter from the same car I got the tranny. Yes there is a slight difference. I thought I was saving a couple $$ reusing the torque converter, oh well. lesson learned.

I see the problem I'm having with the torque converter, I didn't remove it from the engine. I haven't dealt with auto for many years, usually manuals. I read the article on how to seat a torque converter so hopefully tomorrow I will get this done.

I'm replacing the transmission in a 97 Legacy 2.5GT, 4EAT. I was told all 4EAT are the same for Legacy's from 96-98. I went to the junk yard and got a tranny from a 98 Outback. I've almost got the replacement tranny in and have noticed 2 things. The axle stub on the drivers side will pull out of the tranny, How do I get it to go all the way in and stay in. The input shaft that goes into the torque converter is about an inch longer in the replacement tranny. Is that going to fit. I'm starting to think this tranny won't work.

When the VLSD wear out, can they be rebuilt? I think I read the fist gen Legacy has option for lsd but they probaly would be worn out too by now.

I didn't think to look at the mirror. I got 2 auto dim mirrors with compass and temp from Ford Tauruses. I just bought a 97 Leg Gt sedan, would be nice to ad auto dim mirror. I want to put a LSD in my 92 Leg wagon it is a 5mt and has the 4.11 rear.

I was at the junk yard today and there was an 03 LL Bean there. I was curious if they had the VLSD rear ends. I looked under the car but couldn't see any writing on the rear, there was some sort of metal case mostly enclosing it leaving the sides exposed. I thought the metal case was cool and wondered if it would fit one of cars, 92 Leg wagon and 96 Outback. If this car does have the VLSD would it work on one of my cars, both are 2.2 5mt.

I went out and looked and saw the plate. I was thinking it was the same as the rears where the bolts went up into the frame. I'll have to go back to the junk yard tomorrow and get the bolts.

I put the rear body lifts from a 96 OB on my 92 Leg. I was about to put the fronts on but thought the bolts on the Leg wouldn't be long enough. Am I suppose to change the bolts too. How do I get them out of the of the Leg to get the longer OB bolts in.

So sorry to hear this, condolences for your loss.

The rr strut was off the rr of the outback. I messed up the first one and had to go to the junk yard to get another one. I wonder if I got the top hats switched. Would that make a difference? Do I need the body lift parts from the outback. I didn't put those in, does that matter, would it lift the car anymore. I would like to get at least another inch lift. I went with 195/65/15 tires hoping it wouldn't bring down the gas mileage too much.

It does ride much nicer than before. I actually prefer driving this car versus my 96 Outback. Now I have a bad bearing noise coming from the back. Rock Auto has hubs for $43 each but I'm debating about getting the ones at the junk yard on a 92 with 105K miles. Would save some money and I'd have them now to change out, but don't know the condition of them.

Thanks for the info, I did some searching and found Jamal's write up, I think it should be a sticky, but I did bookmark it.

My 92 Legacy wagon needs new rear breaks. Unfortunately I didn't notice till the pads were gone and the rotors are quite shiny. While I was at a junk yard a few days ago, there was a 96 outback wagon with near new rear brakes. Question is, could I switch them out the rotors, calipers and pads, I just put 15 inch outback rims on the 92 Legacy. Will they just bolt in place.

I took the rr tire off and the spring is up against the inner well. Early next week I'll be doing a brake job so I'll get at it with a BFH.

I just finished installing 96 outback struts, springs and sway bar on my 92 legacy wagon. Now I have a clunking noise coming from the rear of the car, most of the noise is on the right side and a small amount of noise is on the left. I had to change the top hats since the bolt holes on top didn't line up. When I reach my hand up inside the tire will to the top of the strut, it feels like the strut is touching the side of the strut well. Do I have the top hat on wrong. Any suggestions on what I should be checking for to make the noise go away. The struts are used form the junk yard, could they be worn out.

MySubie.com has meet ups and drives. there listing one now for Aug 4. I've never gone to any, I want to get my Legacy finished first.

Good job on the Brat, the rolled on paint job came out great I just finished doing a roller paint job on my 92 Legacy wagon in International Red.

Welcome, I'm in Sheridan, CO. Good to see more Coloradans here. Travis