mwbean

sorry it's a 92 Legacy wagon with a 2.2L a 4 speed auotmatic AWD Where can I find that endwrench artilce??

ok, so I just bought this used 1997 Legacy outback from a used car dealer here in Medford,OR When we test drove it seem to run ok there were a few minor issues with it so we offered $ 300.00 less than asking price and they took it. then when driving home to seattle. about halfway there the CEL came on. I stopped and bought a OBD II tester and it came up as a EGR FAult. We Drove it around a while like that but eventualy took it to a Soob dealer to get a what they call a pre- purchase check and cost 98.00 . they said the egr hoses were mis-routed a few other things. my question in my mind is why did'nt the tec just re-route them would only take at couple of minutes for him. anyway, the saga contiues. When I first checked the operation of the EGR Valve it was acuating as spelled out in the chilton manual but after pouring the chilton manual for about a half a hour and checking the routing info on the hood if figured out the correct routing of the hoses. When I checked it again the EGR valve stopped working. what the hell?? so I checked here and found a few posts that said that the EGR can get dirty/carbon build up on the valve seat or in the downpipe to the manifold. but the hoses were routed correct and the purge looked pretty new so I just assumed like a idot that the EGR Valve was bad so I ordered a new one. I repaced it and the old one was pretty cloged up with carbon but not so bad that it problbly could'nt be cleanded. Also squirted some carb cleaner down the the downpipe and let it sit for a hour. I reinstalled the EGR Valve and figured it would fix the problem- Wrong:banghead: so I went out and bought a vaccume tester and started checking all the vaccume sources and found out that there was no vaccume comming out of the purge valve. so i took it off and untimatly that it was clogged with goop/carbon so i repeatly sprayed carb cleaner in all the ports espically the one that gets pressure from the return on the intake manifold (the bottom large one) after doing that a few times the fluid coming out was not dark and nasty but fairly clean. I reasbled and now have vaccume comming out of the purge valve to the EGR valve. I cleared the code with my tester and it hasnt come back yet but have just done around town driving will probably take it on the freeway today and see what hapens...... but the moral of this story is to check the operation of all componets in a system to see if all work propery before buying expensive parts:D:D

I have a 92 Legacy wagon. when I drive it when shfting from 2nd to third it slips and the engine reves up then it engages and then it seems fine. unitll I stop again and it starts all over again. I just drained all the fluid and put in new dextron fluid and a bottle of Lucas no slip addative beacuase I just bought the car and did'nt know the history on it and since it was acting up, did'nt really trust what was in there ( never know what some idot owner will put in there. Also it was over filled by several quarts when I first checked it. When I drained the fluid it let the old fluid sit in the pan to see if there were any contamants in it and sure enough, there where a few specks of brass in the bottom of the pan. is this the beginning of the kiss of death for this tranny. any helpful advise from soob tranny experts is welcome Thanks

I checked Rock auto and the cheapest cam sensor was 68$$ the cam sensor was somewher around. 140.00$$

Follow up: I took out the cam sensor but before i took mine out i cleaned the area with carb cleaner, then sprayed it with deep creep and left it sit for a couple of hours. When I took the screw out it came rigtht out and the sensor housing had a light coat of engine oil and no corrosion. does that it mean it was replaced reciently?? the conncetor looked ok but old. when I checked it by passing a magnet it induced a votage in it but it only changed by .001 and .002 volts it that all the signal it needs?? I also checked the ground attached to the battery recently and cleaned the battery. I noticed another ground near the drivers side shock mount I will check it as well. any other locations for bad grounds i should be looking for??

Just for information- did you try testing the unit bfr replacing? did replacing it solve the problem? How was the vehicle running bfr the code poped up? I am having the same problem. got code 13 as well got code 11 and 32 I tried testing the resistance of the coil but there is no refrence in the repair manual as to what the resistence spec is supposed to be. before i took mine out i cleaned the area with carb cleaner, then sprayed it with deep creep and left it sit for a couple of hours. When I took the srew out it came rigtht out and the sensor housing had a ligth coat of engine oil and no corrosion. does that it mean it was replaced reciently?? the conncetor looked ok but old. when I checked it by passing a magnet it induced a votage in it but it only changed by .001 and .002 volts it that all the signal it needs??

I have a 1992 with a 2.2 L engine non turbo. I has been poping codes since i bought it about a month ago the jerk who I bought it from coverd the check engine light with a piece of black electrical tape so it wasnt immedatly apprent that there were codes present. i first got codes of 23, 32, 14,15,16,17 35 and 42. I changed the purge control valve and then cleared the codes. I also thought of changing the o2 sensor but when I looked at it it seemed new looking so I decided not to change it. I noticed that at idle it "surged" so I drove it a few miles around town and the CEL came on again. I pulled the codes again and got 32- o2 sensor, 23,maf sensor and 21 ect sensor I cleaned the Maf sensor and checked the temp sensor and it was out of range at specified temp so I changed it also. I drove it again and it poped codes again. this time it was 32, 11 crank sensor and 13- cam sensor. so I thougnt would check both the sensors I"v been looking in my repair manual for resistance specs for the camshaft and crankshaft sensors I thought that before I fork out severl hundred dollars for new sensors I would check them out. Anyone know?? I was also reading some other artilces and noticed that when the timing belt is change it is imperative that the marks on the camshaft are lined up correctly. could it be that someone before me changed the timing belt and got it off by one mark and that is causing the "surging" at idle and the cmp and ckp sensor codes??

thanks for the info guys:clap:

I don't have any direct expericence on this Paticular Problem However the post's I have read here and other Places. would lead me to wonder if the guy that did the timing belt change got everyting lined up correcly. I undersand that these engines are very finicy when it comes to cam/ timing alignment. one tooth off may be causing your problem and you cannot just assume that you put a timing light on it and it show on time but the cam may be off causing the valves to open/close too soon or too late. just a suggestion.

Basic Electric Resistance Formulas R = E / I R = E2/ W R = W / I2 If you have a circuit that has a X rated fuse and it keeps blowing then you are drawing too much current for the intended curcit and the blowing fuse is just doing it's job. you need to figure out what the total draw of each part of the circuit is and then find out if there is any excess current allowed in the circuit. if not, then you will have to find another power source that does have capacity on it. I just installed a new sterio in my 1992 Legacy wgn and it had two avalibale power wires for the radio. both were Red/white but were drawing from two different circuits.

try a leakdown test with a tester. if you are a DIY you can find one here: http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Leakdown-Testers/?keyword=leak+down+tester&kr=leak+down+tester

near the back of the engine by the firewall there is two hoses comming out the tranny just where the the engine bolts onto the tranny one hose is to the right ( passenger side) the other is in the center top of the tranny. what hooks up there??

thaks everyone

Thanks GD I Checked it with a VOM and it has a open. Guess I will have to buy a new one ugh

I have a 92 Legacy outback wagon and Can't find the EGR Valve/ selonid. I have a 97 and it's on the drivers side to the left of the master cylinder. on my 92 it's not in that location. Now, I relalize it may be in another Location but I can't find it in the Haynes manual etither. If anyone has any info on this please Repy Thanks in Advance Michael

grab all the plastic light assy's tall light assy's marker lights and if the head light assy are good i would like them. I'll pm you on how to contact me.

what isa disty cap??

the link to the pic is no longer there. Here is a new link thanks to Legacy777 http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2471.JPG

Thanks to Legacy777 for the PIC of the Vapor Canister Purge Valve I have a 1992 Legacy Outback Wagon and it appears to be under the intake manifold on the R/H (passenger side) it has a blue connector. the haynes book says to chek the valve, measure the resistence it should be between 10 and 100 ohms. does sound about right??

I just bought this 92 Legacy Outback with a 2.2L It has 216K miles on it. I surges a idle so I changed the Plugs they looked ok but bady worn except for one which had a litte carbon build up on it. then found out that the previous owner put black tape over the check engine lignt. With the help of the tech forum ( http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html) (thanks guys) i was able to pull the Codes. it is throwing code(s) 43, 45, 35, 33,24, 13,14,15,16 and 17. Since it is surging at Idle i feel that it is the aircontrol valve but havent tested it yet. My next step is to reset the ECU and drive it again to see what codes if any pop up. Update: ok, after resetting the ECU and Warming up the Engine, a Code 35 (purge control Valve) came up. I then drove the car a few miles at approx 35 mph and came back and checked again and a code 32, O2 Sensor, but now my question is how do you tell if it is the upstream sensor or Downstream? I am new to soobys so any Ideas from more experienced mechanics would be appreciated.

update on rear hatchproblem> I remved the rear panel and took apart the rear hatch handle mechnism and the lock. what happened is the plastic part that locks the rear hatch had brokenoff and was non functional. it was swinging freely and sometimes would inpede the "lock bar" to come down completly thus not allowing it to unlock with the handle beacuse it was still partially in the lock position. also the spring the held it in the unlockpositon seemed a little weak so I used my dremmel too to shave a little off thus allowing the lock bar to have a little more clearance to slide by the lock Mechnism

thanks guys, when I try to unlock it with the key and pull up on the outside handle it won't open

Just bought this car and The rear hatch won't open but got $ 300 off the sale price beacuse of it. Now how do I fix it?? thanks

It seems that Chilton did not make a Repair Manual for the 1997 Legacy Outback Wagon. What does everybody else use Here?? Thanks