propane

Starting to make sense.. I checked the original crank pulley w/ the 6 tabs - the one with timing mark is 180 degrees out from key-way, In fact the California emission pulley is also 12 o'clock to key-way six o'clock. Either I bumped crank position when removing pulley, or it was off mark. Anyone care to weigh in? I will turn motor over twice, to check timing marks as well as look for valve piston interference thx

Question is (edit) what timing marks to use on Crankshaft sprocket? 146K on OB 5spd , emissions sticker says Calif, & other compliant.. Am swapping in an unknown yr earlier(?) 2.5 (SOHC) maybe it came out of a 99 Forester, was an auto, run when pulled as per my engine guy, plugs were right color etc. !st snag was the engine harness - car has MAP sensor, assume eng had MAF, so I swapped over intake, NO start, asked around was told its was prolly diff crank wheel sender (& cam ) they were diff, some like 8 teeth on donor eng, , original has like 30... changed those out (both cam &crank sprocket), ready to put new timing belt & idlers in, had lined up the cam marks before swapping crank sprocket, new belt lines up on cams.. Heres my question- crank sprocket marks dont match.. belt mark is at about 10:00 oclock, key way on crank is like 4 :00 oclock. my manual only goes to 98 (Haynes) Don't want any surprises with timing off thx,

I did a 96 Legacy rack recently, & separated the tie rod at the steering knuckle because that’s what was on the replacement rack, and kept some kind of toe in alignment from previous car. Also remember a skid plate with 4 12mm nuts , bolts that is dropped out of the way for the rack to come out. Yeah, the manifold studs are threaded into the block, They use a fairly low torque 22 ft lbs I think, so it shouldn’t be too hard to grab on with visegrips if things go south, frequently the stud and nut come out together. On finish, leave the fill cap fairly loose, hang’n by a thread cause the air in system has to go somewhere and needs to escape from reservoir as it is being replaced by steering fluid. Then cap it after it has filled, and the pump stops making cavitation sounds going lock to lock- to dipstick level.

How many miles on car? auto transmission? When it overheats, have you (or been asked by mechanics) seen if the coolant has been overflowing into plastic reservoir? And subsequently thermo siphoning back into radiator (when eng is shut off.?) this is a function of radiator cap working properly Coolant ( same type) should be kept at least to min level on side of overflow (yellow cap). What basis is the assumption of HG leaking(asked earlier)

Closing this thread as well, I replaced entire steering knuckle on Passenger front side( where the noise was coming from) rusty, clunking bearing once off the axle, by spinning the inner race with finger. That was the howl. as many of you correctly identified. It still has a little gear whine in 1st, 2nd which as Fair tax said in another thread was typical based on wear. Why did I think it was maybe rear diff? I was "snake bit" since once I changed trannies for a similar noise, when it remained, decided to change diffs (same ratio) which was back feeding its problems to the front. Used steering rack worked out well. it bled its air out OK Swapped exhaust quieted it down, couldn't even see the leak. This car is far more noisy & tinny sounding than my 91 Legacy LSi they say generals tend to fight battles based on the last war. No ABS light occurs (other than start up) after unplugging everything chasing electrical problem unrelated to howl key symptom was when driving the 96 legacy, on long sweeping curves, the howl did not change note, as differentials let axles & wheels spin at different speeds around corners.and there should have been a significant noise change. still have a dragging caliper, ABS comes on only drivers front wheel when I jam the brake and barely skid only that tire. dead caliper on opposite side? thx all for helping me keep it on the road here in Colorado, they don't rust out, and I would put the 90s Legacies up against the later model stuff for engineering and durability. Back East, rust finishes off many Subies.

I took it to Auto Zone to have codes read; sorta expected something like the 0325 knock sensor, other one baffles me, 0180 I think, which was fuel temp range exceeded or something. all of the reading of the factory service manual, I do not recall any temp reading hardware?? with the fuel pump running so much, did this trigger the code?? Am thinking of clearing the codes w/ battery disconnect. It has a "low oil rattle on start up, maybe setting the knock sensor code, or I buy a new one from Amazon for a $15, looks like I'm almost done with this part of the reconditioning, to put this back on the road. I'm still getting a dragging front brake, it releases some of time

Can close out this topic- It was the main engine harness unplugged, left barely hanging by last person who "worked" on the car. After finding the rear diff drain plug, & oil drain plug finger loose, dripping I shoulda caught the style of maintenance. I must have nudged it when securing the O2 sensor cable OEM style so it doesn't tangle with the CV axle. Not having the temp sensor connected must have been the trigger for the gauge to go max on. I had to use another speedo cluster, original was in bad shape & temp needle was half twisted off. fan ran because of green connecters at first, then ?? because of temp no reading??? fuel pump because of main relay grounding it ??? Only thing I can think of to be gained from this "wild goose chase" was that no fuses ever blew, no melted harnesses, needle on temp kept trying to bury itself past max. Follow me over to the "differential howl thread" tomorrow it was front bearing- wheel bearings on Now that was something learned. THx for the FSM link, & all the comments,

swapped ECU wasn't the problem same symptom the key has to be that fuel pump runs w/ key off --- Does it have its own controller/ timer? thx Down loaded Factory service manual, nice but I couldn't find a wiring diagram for engine control, Update: didn't scroll down in FSM PDF, its all there !! thx like in my 1991 FSM I realize the diff as OBDII was introduced in 1996 . Someone suggested to check for fused wires underneath of main wiring block in eng compartment. Was thinking of recheck main & fuel relays under power to see if their is cross over from switched voltage. Dont know where to start looking for "pinched grounds" as Gloyale suggested. I suppose the next trouble shooting step would be to trace power supply circuits to afflicted components, looking for a common denominator Update: pump doesn't run if I have had the battery discoed- only after switching on - off ... that sounds like a relay flipping on & being burnt internally I need to check voltage (back probing the connectors for main Fuel pump) relays are cheap to sub in - Can't hurt at this point. key off, fuel pump runs, temp swings max up; key on Rev pegs to 500 RPM; no longer starts found battery discharged probably from fuel pump running all night; gave it a battery charger boost no start gauges go wild changed brain boxes , no difference Update: No check eng light, bulb good, wondering if I botched an O2 (front) connector, & that is tied to the light.

took the whole bracket out holding both relays , after unplugging. I wonder if Subaru's engineer;s thinking was that relays buried up high were more on less fail safe? (I only tested for continuity + for power circuit, no ohms for switched circuits (2 and 1) By unplugging both, the temp gauge was deprived of power. Tachometer continued to jump to 500RPM w/o relays plugged in What I forgot in the above summary was the absence of the check engine light which comes out of ECM as does tach... my 1991 FSM shows them connected I think. I'm about 90% sure the brain box got spiked by battery charger jump start. A local pull n save has a 1/2 off sale this Friday. Will post results .

Provided the test included ground as well as power, it may be bad. The next step, if you don't want to drive to a dealership, is what many here recommend is www.car-part.com most ship. I (or traipse thru a pull and save yard).

Summary of Problem: started after I tried to start car (was in a hurry to test drive to see if suspension fixes solved diff howling) broke my rule and used the charger to boost waay dead battery & attempt to crank over car, subbed good battery since then.( something drained this don’t know.) green wires had been connected along, was “going to get to those” after driving it. That’s when the fuel pump & main fan started running in off,along with temp gauge pegging hi, rev jumping to 500RPM, .. but go dead in "on " position, (subbed in diff ignition switch, unhooked green connecters) Car didn’t start BTW. same pattern repeats once I disconnect the neg battery and start over While I’m chasing down fuel pump relay, I wonder what its saying with the main fan (& gauge peg) involvement? Did I fry the main relay? ECM?

Yeah, I disconnected Alt. plug and main charging wire. Only other gauge is fuel and it is not involved , no radio noise, EDIT: yes there is a brief static sound when beginning the test. not sure what symptoms there would for radio or lights – cant see any diff. The thing that is unusual is the instant jump of the rev to 500RPM (eng. Not running) and Max ohm swing by the temp gauge,(as well as fuel pump) ONCE the battery has been re connected at the neg.edit: & HAVE cycled the key once, doesnt quit until the bat is discoed again. I have a 1991 FSM to see where the fuel pump relay is unless somebody knows off hand, It seems like something gets tripped & then stays energized feeding power to its self, plus the fuel pump & temp gauge, rev counter Edit: previously, when doing a compression test, I unplugged the coil - not sure if this a good or bad practice? also, the drivers low beam plug for headlight was melted, I seperated out the wire, to fix later, noticed the whole plug had been chopped in, using wire nuts. EDIT : found the relay for fuel pump, will take it out & test it per haynes manual instructions

No joy by disconnecting Alt, I notice the rev counter jumps to 500RPM , opposite of the temp gauge pegging max high to max low outside of is range. fuel pump still runs in off, nil in on. no white connectors I see , I rem a thread where a pair of black connecters in addition to the green are mentioned Still trying to narrow it down.

When you say the fan isn’t working, do you mean that the car is overheating? If you haven’t seen it operating, it could be the system is OK, it just doesn’t need an auxiliary fan . Modern engines are designed to operate within a narrow temp range,& usually the Aux fan is turned on when AC is operating and a whole list of conditions are checked off by the controller, you might find more info by doing a search for sub fans, air conditioner,

Battery terminals were cleaned when new battery subbed in, this car used to start instantly, & w replacement battery cranks fine. I pretty sure its not getting fuel since the pump only runs when off. Doubt its getting spark, either. grounds are good, this is dry climate & was garaged for entire time. (have carpet back & will visually check ECU) I subbed in a known good used ignition switch. Same symptom. Further, since I disconnect the battery each interval when trying something new, I noticed that it doesnt act up till the key on triggers something. . THis flips something on to power both pump & fan, when I then roll it back to off, but not in on. I wonder If I fried the ECU when using the battery charger 60 AMP start mode. thx

This is the same 1996 legacy AWD wagon 2.2L w 5spd that’s in the diff howl thread/ topic. This newest problem is entirely different (electrical) & felt justified in started new thread. Prob is that fuel pump runs in key off, & not in on. Same for main fan. ( & I assume in start as well cause it wont start now. Previously, the fan would cycle on, then start ran fine. So far its killed the battery( have a good replacement battery in now, which I leave disconnected till I can find out more) probably from running continuously & I didn’t hear it The only electrical “work” I’ve done was to R &R the front ABS sensors; & unplugged the O2 sensor (when I dropped the exhaust to change steering rack). UPDATE: temp guage swings to max, & Tach jumps.with key off , goes nil with key on. Wonder if I fried a relay by using the battery charger to jump start? also changed out the O2 sensor. . What is supplying power to fuel pump? I first went under the dash and sure enough the green connectors were plugged together. So I unplugged those. Still the same. Fan runs unless I pull the 20Amp fuse in the eng Main fuse block. no clue as why.. thx forgot to add- I'm sure I had a CEL light previously, now there's nothing, as in the initial key on postion looks like every other indicator light is there.

To add to the consensus that 90s & above to 20?? Subies are not too finicky about oil brands (if basic spec of met), consider that modern oil is built with additive packs combined into base stock, more and more resembling “synthetic” (perhaps why it is more expensive) and as oil changes are extended out past the 3000 mile “old school” rule, Oil filters are just catching up, to meet this extended interval. Cheap filters can go into bypass mode, (not filtering) even though the oil is still good for more miles. (Oil analysis is easier for diesel eng than gas engines), I also heard that is why NAPA went to Platinum grade filters next step better than Gold. & also heard that just one supplier, WIC (spelling?) makes nearly all filters in USA, built to which ever OE specs are ordered

1st thx Gary think your choice of wheel bearing is (was) correct. Just finished undoing axle nut, ¾ drive cheater bar and extension, judging by the looks, nobodys been in there since OE. Glad I did -- rust, & bump & grind when I turned the innnermost inside race. Going to Car-part.com-short supply so far. I liked your use of a thermal gun from a previous post, next on my list of tools to buy. 2nd to Fairtax enlightening to think of ABS as a “pressure interrupter “ & I wasn’t clear in my earlier posts did the fluids front &back already, as well buy a set of matching used tires & rims as a diagnostic tool. I think I’m home free, almost, what ever the pass side knuckle runs me, glad it ain’t no tranny, so far. And yeah I’m in the car for 7 plus a buck & half for parts. So far. Will post outcome when the knuckle shows up. Thx all

Done some more work, still trying to find what component is bad. Noise is coming from passenger front, loud wrang wrang wrang slows down with coming to a stop, present even at a few MPH, have driven it in a traffic circle, didn’t hear much of a change. couldn’t feel any vibration transfer w/ wheel off ground, no play at the 12 – 6 o’clock, diff oil didn’t have any glitter in it that I could see, I replaced the opposite side knuckle w/ correct ABS one & had bearing with it, was hoping it might be a bad bearing on Pass side. Could be rear diff. or front diff+ trans., or an axle any thoughts? If I jack stand all four corners, and run it in drive, do U think having both diffs off the ground would isolate anything? thx again

ABS vs Non ABS front hub and Steering knuckle . 1996 Legacy AWD wgn With ABS, opened a can of worms when examining drivers front wheel, & ABS light coming on. Found out knuckle & possibly hub were changed out with non ABS knuckle Question: how do tell the diff in front hubs? ABS vs non? How do I get the ABS tone ring in there? Bought the correct steering knuckle, & dust shield from salvage yard, off a 99 Forester. The trouble I see is Rock auto lists ABS/ &non ABS for hubs, and no part listing for tone ring. Thoughts? & thx All this so I can track down original prob of howl from opposite side of diff. Like I said a real can of worms Oops Salvage yard saved the day by selling everything I need looked at included hub & it is hole drilled to bolt up ABS tone ring with allen head screws If an administrator wants to remove this post ok by me thx

Tone ring part of rotor? It turns out the drain plug for the rear diff was finger loose as well the eng drain… This car is throwing me curve balls. I drained enough oil out of rear diff to decide it didn’t burn up from lack of oil. It was black-a little fuzzy metal on magnet drain plug, so I think its OK. Next, in trying to track down the howl, I noticed that pulling the car in & out of garage, it had the drivers front brake grabbing. With both wheels off the ground, the wheel didn’t grab,(key off) & turned the opposite side OK Then I saw the ABS wheel sensor was tied off, the knuckle has been changed, to a non ABS style, the dust cover is different too. Rotor & pads are new, but I don’t see a tone ring inside the rotor, Is that part of rotor? It looks like a trip to salvage yard for correct knuckle,(w/ mounting boss for ABS sensor) Looked at Car-Part.com, many years 91-99 interchange I figure the ABS light that would turn on (ABS system off) would release the brake grabbing, although there is a melted plastic ring on the outside of the wheel that looks like hub cap remains.Wonder if the car had been driven without the ABS being turned off (my 91 has that issue), until the brakes are applied & the Light comes on. Asking if tone ring part of rotor, didn’t find anything in searching for “tone “ or “ring” some for ABS* thx,

was wondering if a 1993 same ratio 3.9 rear diff would interchange with my(3.9 ratio) 96 ? the one in car is leaking badly. & will try to rock wheel to see if there is bearing play thx

Picked up a 1996 legacy 5spd AWD wgn 142K mi, test drove it & drove it home with a real good howl coming from right front of car, ABS, on, car seemed to wander on when coming off the gas & slowing down for stops. car had some really bad maint, scary loose eng oil drain plug, trans was over filled. Previous owner replaced PS pump that I can’t so far match the missing filler dipstick cap. Question is where to start? The howl, matches road speed, its not so much a low rumble, like I would think a bearing (been wrong before). Here is what I found in the trunk: completely worn out trashed mini spare & flat. I read Fairtaxtome previous post on 2001 outback “whats with the bad trans? “ which I will try, jack up front wheel & see if it rotates, listen for noise if it does turn.. then same for rear. . The other oil leak on garage was coming from rear diff; I assume it got trashed with high speed driving with the minispare. Looking for thoughts on this. 2nd question: if the rear diff(3.90 ratio) is leaking badly, just change it out? Wonder whether it’s the front diff as well, or maybe a wheel bearing? thx for reading

Spot on the life & times of Catalytic converters, price over all is determined by world market price posted in London along side Gold & Silver. I HAVE done most of “tune up” steps recommended, including oil &filter, I choose OEM type plugs, NGK copper, (V groove) they come gapped @.035 I think, I expanded it out to .043. Not too concerned w/ air filter, & seem to be getting plenty of fuel thru line, fuel pump sounds like it ‘s working, and will check if it smells rich after it starts & warms up to temp. So, I have answered my own question, if temp sensor was inter changeable(90-99) w/ later model OBDII, it is (from cross checking on Rock Auto) and is less than $19 USPS shipped. In the mean time, will unplug current sensor, check to see if it starts easier,(from other posts) and maybe sub in a used one, wondering if I could experiment, and put a heat gun to the sub while its still out of eng, yet plugged into harness.(before I pull original one) Was hoping for diagnostic insight , have 5of 6 volumes of 1991 Factory manuals, naturally am missing the one on eng & emissions thx

I have heard of this temporary fix to pass emissions, since its running rich, smells rich when it tries to start, I figure it will put fuel in the oil and shorten the life of the engine, plus it wont be very good gas mileage Looking for diagnosis of possible emission control fault, or tests to see what is causing hard start thx I have a 96 2.2 eng for parts, I believe it to be OBDII, wondering if ECM temp sensor will swap to my 92 car I'm trying to fix