charles_thomas

I wish mine was less rusty, haha. My X1/9 was immaculate, but the '77 Subaru is beyond repair. :/ i always wanted an 850. I still have a 5spd trans and 1800 racing engine from the x1/9 I wanted to put in one. and Yeah, very fair price. That's just what they cost here. (I suspect it has gone up.slightly though) Glass place is down the street, small discount for veteran, but it was quoted $254 out the door. Just over $300 for the windshield glass install in my 57 chevy truck. Oddly enough all 3 times the hangup was getting the right dang trim/gasket thing. 57 was just out of stock everywhere. Apparently several of the subarus use the same windshield, but where the gasket connects to the body is slightly different? Idk. Was weird, one is a channel, the other is a sort of flange thing.

I always get them confused. I have been um. . . 'spoken harshly' at more than once for forgetting which one I drive, haha. If you are looking for a windshield, one of the major glass companies still makes them. My local shop has installed 2 of them for me, about $250 each. That junkyard always has some good stuff at it. That day they also had a 78ish Dodge Colt Coupe, and a late 60's Fiat 850.

Looking at the side trim, anyone know why this one has it below the 'dent' in the side? Mine runs inside it. Just a year difference or?

Pull in Save in Mead had a 76(I think) coupe sitting there. If anyone lives in the area and needs parts, go get 'em. I tried to buy it, as my 77 is rusting away, anything I put on it is doomed, I want a new shell. Manager of the yard said regardless of condition, they wanted $800 - 1000 for what was left. Shame, as most the interior is useless, and someone broke the grille and took bumpers and some of the trim. not 1000 worth of parts left. But fenders or cut out panels could be useful to others? Maybe someone needs a shell and has that much to Shell out. Has an ea71 auto, engine long block looks intact. (As of the 15th).

I run a 2002 H6 in My old coupe. So I cannot speak for running one in it's original body. However, for the engine itself, I arrived at it for many reasons, after many hours of research. 2.2l are awesome, and easy to maintain, but I personally have a lead foot. The early EZ has simpler exhaust, which fit my application better. EZ30 has more power and such right from the start, more desirable (to me) torque curve, which means less effort for longevity and reasonable power. I am just over 8000 miles in this car (I drive a LOT) 150,000 or so total. I have an overall average of 27.5MPG. About 30 on the highway, 25 zipping through mountains. I am rather hard on my engines. I do not have an in tank pump. I run inline that costs about 45 to replace, no issues to report. Serpentine belt does fail. I went cheap first. Do not cheap out. Something about the way they are they stretch, switched to a good one and haven't had another issue with it. I run a standard 2.5L Alternator, cheaper and easy to find. fits in stock location with only a plug adjustment, and the use of the alt. mount off of a 2.5L. easy mod, avoids issue I will take timing chain over belt most days. They take longer to stretch, and usually are just better. Like anything else, If maintained. Proper adjustment will make them run for much longer than belt. Ignoring the tensioner will cause expensive repairs. Most of the H6 engines I have seen with blown heads, come from cooling issues. Usually fault of owner\mech. Failure of fans, improper level or leaking coolant will kill them, just like the others. From what I understand, the H6 does not have the same cylinder cooling passages\issues that the other Subaru engines do, so if regular maintenance is done, they 'should' outlast them. Just my equally long winded statement of my personal experience running the 2002 H6 engine. As always, content not rated, your experience may differ.

I personally do not Facebook. The ROM has a manual setting that is used overseas (if you have the correct ECU). Some can be easily "switched" to this by sending the correct signal on the correct wire. Commonly grounding it. Messing with the programming of the ECU to simply delete a code or error light OFTEN results in other problems that are neither noted or observed by the casual mechanic, sometimes not rearing their ugly head for years to come. I did not happen across one of those handy ECUs. I have also noticed that the Pinout and ROM change slightly each year, making a static mapping of the pins mostly useless, the resistance of the solenoids and return circuits will also vary based on component physical location, making finding the correct resistance to "fool" the ECU a bit of a trial and error scenario. I had to increase the resistance a couple times, on a couple circuits, to have the ECU respond as though the circuits and components were still there. I would recommend adding some more resistance to the circuit and see if it helps. I am in the process of doing that now with mine, and does seem to reduce the number of times the code blows. I'm still skeptical that there isn't a secondary reading the ECU gets from some other component that I do not have, as my engine is running completely standalone.

On my H6 I still occasionally pop this code. I am running with the resistors, and it is not consistent. I suspect there is a second circuit that occasionally requires an input, that I have not found due to its infrequent 'poping' of the code. Please keep informed what you find. I have most the wires mapped on mine, still haven't found it, ha.

Thanks for the research on the front suspension. Good option for when I EZ my 86,(Gotta finish the 77 first, haha). Keep updating about the cage, it is always nice to see other people finding and using other options.

The dash has one primary wire that powers it, but there are not many (if any) diodes that make it one way. Power can be Backfed through a number of circuits that are not designed for it, and receive power. Doing so damages wire\connections\gauges\whatever the weakest link is, once that damage occurs the normal direction of the circuit does not function properly. That weak link needs to be found and repaired before another part fails.

Sounds like you may have made an 'accidental connection' when hotwiring. Either shorted or melted a wire, blew a link, etc. Check your grounds real quick, could gave damaged ine. Keep checking, might be wirth starting with where you tied the 12v to to run the power and work backwards to the dash, that is likely where your problem is. You should continue looking for a hotspot or melt, corrosion etc, be VERY through, doesn't take much to be short enough to not start. If still a no-go, do the same with a continuity check, then a manually applied 12v.

^^ Weird... I have 3 vehicles with gen 3 hubs, and only 1 is gen 3. The idk what to call it.. spindle assembly?, is different, but the inner hub section itself should be the same, if it is one with the splines the same. Some Turbos and whatnot use different ones. the gen 3 rotors are vented and have completely different calipers and mounts. That results in different steering arm legnth, etc, Which is where the main differences are. Front to rear does require finding a donor vehicle with rear discs. Or doing some rather annoying fabrication of either the arm or custom spindle assemblies...again, not sure that is the correct name. Bottom line, it has all been done, spend some time doing a few in depth searches on the forum. Take a look at what others Have done, not just what they were told wouldn't work, and then decide how much work you want to do, go from there. Best of luck, keep us updated.

It is unfortunate that the forums are going the way that they are. I don't Facebook. At all. Which is a problem here, as both of the local Subaru Clubs ONLY use facebook. Makes it pretty much impossible to be included in the local 'scene.' sometimes makes it hard to get or sell parts. I have only met about 4 people around here that still use this forum.

It just might. Somewhere on this site... Although A quick search didn't yield it, Is a blurb about using either an old datsun or nissan adapter for the EA82. It is a slightly taller Single piece adapter. It is very possible that there is another one for the EA81. So do your own research and let us all know if you found another workaround. Despite some members insistence things don't exist, this board finds a whole bunch of work-around and replacement parts off other engines. For example, the smaller stock weber of the late 70's fiat is a bolt on to the EA82, but no-one really seems to bring it up as an option. So- First find the base plate bolt spacing dimensions for the carb you want to use, and the ea81 and see if they are the same. Second thing to look for is the tilt. Subaru manifolds sit level on top of the engine, which means the adapter needs to be pretty close to level as well. Some of the inline engines use a tilted back manifold, it will often cause fuel float issues to run that adapter on the subaru. Good luck, do please keep us informed. -Charles

I use NiCop in all of my vehicles as well. Won't burst, won't rust, easy to bend and the cost is not much more than steel. The only thing to be wary of via Amazon, is the lines that say they are Nickel Copper, but are either coated steel, or all copper. Usually I pay the slightly higher price to be able to touch it before purchase, but that is just a personal preference.

The dudes are right, 250hp for low budget on a smaller displacement engine is near impossible. Usually requires advanced knowledge of tricks and techniques to make it happen. It frequently results in a severely shortened engine life. If many swaps is your cup-o-tea, go for it. Worst you can do is waste money and blow up engines? Idk...not my cup. I installed an '02 EZ3.0 in a '77, with thebone stock Ecu, and a '92 Loyale trans. 215hp overnight... Well, over 2 weeks. Anything can be done if you are willing to do the research into what it will take. My total cost into the build thus far is just shy of $1500, including the engine and tires. Engine came from pull and save, for a whopping $200. She runs, drives, and has a few thousand miles on it now, including one 1000 mile trip. That being said, I AM a mechanic. If I was to do that for anyone else, it would be astronomically expensive, primarily due to the labor cost, time is money and the research into it was extensive. A 96 body will fit an EZ30, and will bolt to the trans. You said you did the clutch, if you have, then you know how to pull the engine. Procedure is *almost* the same for the physical engine swap. Would need to switch the radiator, which is a bolt in, and have the exhaust mated to the new engine. And... iMO - Your Primary issue is Wiring. The EZ30 runs a different (although physically similar) ECU. It has more wires coming from the engine, because more cylinders and more sensors, which means everywhere the wires run between the ECU and engine (dash, bulkhead, footwell, etc) is also different. To make it work you need to either swap the whole harness, Pay to have someone else do a harness merge, or do a LOT of research, pull out a multimeter, and do it yourself. Its a learning process, and most people quit because they didn't take the time to learn first. I am a dumb carb guy. I knew nothing about ECU wiring when I started. If I made it work, so can anyone. There are many good writeups on that swap, and if you are willing to do all the legwork yourself to find the wiring diagrams, learn about them, and then replace the right wires then you can do it. There is no reason it HAS to be expensive, but you really need to look up everyone's experience. Take good notes of what went wrong for them, and how they fixed issues that will bite you in the wallet. I spent 3 weeks reading every ez swap I could find just so I wouldn't have any issues on my daily when I did the swap. It worked. No codes, no horrible failures, just some cooling kinks from cheaping out on pipe clamps. BUT it's done for less than what most people pay for their engine alone. So decide what you want to do, then to heck with peoples opinions of the idea, get out there, learn what you need to know, then a whole bunch of extra, and make it happen. Sry for novel.

Yes and no. It does fit up front but it seems to run better if you place it Inline, closer to the tank. I am ruuning in a brat with a custom tank in the bed, and a coupe, which have the tank behind the rear seat. Pulling from under the hood worked, but seemed to get a little warm under the extra pull. I placed it under the seat area on the frame Under the floor, works perfect.

+1 for carter. Did the same thing, ended with same result. The Carters actually have higher flow and pressure than required. I purchased a non-carter 'OEM replacement' pump off Amazon for $45, runs my EZ30 no problem. The fuel return line takes the excess back without issue, and because it is overpowered, should keep it (and injectors) from having to strain.

From what I understand the later 'fat case' EA71s with the side starter are the same bolt pattern as the EA81. The top starter (much more common) do not work with EA81 engines. Always use the flywheel that matches the trans that you choose/have.

My '77 coupe has an EZ30. Lots work there., But point is you really can do anything if you have some skills, time and access to metal. EA81 will drop in with relative ease. Some crossmember work, depending on trans choice. And steering clearance check. I would recommend using one for a quicker route to more acceptable 'Daily Driver' power. EA82 needs trans crossmember and engine mount hole widening. The engine will technically fit, but the front frame rails will be 'uncomfortably' close. Hitting the accelerator hard can bash the plastic timing belt guard if the mounts are not perfect... Which they are not. EA82 trans is almost guaranteed to hit the steering rag joint. With that engine getting to the distributor is a pain around the brake master cylinder. If your particular Master cylinder has the lines aiming straight down, you will have to switch it to one with them aiming to the right. Can't directly state as to the EJ, never done it. However you likely need most, if not all, of the mods required to run EA82, as they measure close in size.

I use an app for that literally just called "reduce photo size" It functions, nothing more nothing less.

Looks good!

Those work well, if it is bouncing that far, I would lean towards checking springs as well. If you have added any weight to the front, it might be too much for the stock springs, they don't like it. One options, although it does require some small mods, (redrill tophat screw holes, mount brake cable at bottom differently) is to use ea82 front struts, they are much easier to find, and are *fairly* close in size, etc. I know you said without any mods, but it is a cheap option to consider, and a few small holes is not bad for the payout, IMO. Here is a pic, I ran them in my '78 brat that I had for quite a while. Went from ea71 style straight to ea82 struts.

I am currently running a Holley 5200 series, off of a Pinto. Found one on Craigslist for $20, much cheaper than weber. For most all intent and purpose, it is a Weber. Air cleaner bottom plate is slightly different, as is the fuel inlet. But the jet, valve and associated components are all weber. Seems to make Weber a bit of the Maserati of Carburetors.

There were two kia springs listed, I started with the softer Kia springs, they worked for daily, but they were a bit soft when off road. Then moved to the stiffer ones. They were functional, but not being progressive, I would bottom when landing a hard bump or smaller jump. Neither set squeaks or moves. The rear springs fit almost perfectly inside the stock spring perches, only had to slightly adjust the bottom of the spring. I used the ones off the rear of the same vehicle when I replaced them to have new on all 4 corners. Later, I cut them about 2inches, set so they have almost no preload, only enough to hold them in place. Work great for stiffer rebound before it bottoms. I am actually running new stock EA82 struts and tophats. It is in a 1977 coupe, so the strut top mounts and adjustments were all modified for adjustments anyway.

Personally, I do not like cutting springs, ride is too harsh, dampening effect suffers greatly. ended up using the Kia springs suggested as an alternative in 2.7's thread. To add a stiffer, almost progressive firmness to stronger hits, I utilized a shorter stock spring off of the EA82 rear coilovers. Works great, dampens smaller hits perfectly while not jarring my teeth out, and stiffens when hit hard to keep from bottoming out over a jump. Maybe someday, I'll even get around to cutting out the rust, ha.