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charles_thomas

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Everything posted by charles_thomas

  1. charles_thomas
    Webers work fairly well, do some googling, there are other carbs that fit as well. Get the adapter plate that says what your engine says to the carb you buy/have.
  2. charles_thomas
    The Hatch and Brat usually have the EA81. I say usually, because they can be swapped. Can be visually ID through inspection, but the easiest way to be sure when you are newer with the Subaru engines is a stamp plate on top of the engine. It will literally say "EA81" enclosed by a machined box. Standing In front of the engine bay, on top, just to the left of center. Seen in this picture as number "2" and in the picture of one of my Brat's engine bat, with arrow. All subaru engine, including current ones carry these same stamp locations.
  3. charles_thomas
    This is another great example of how much useful information is here. Like I said though, went through these, still couldn't find direct loaded height examples. It usually isn't really needed as much as load values and such, but in my case I needed it to confirm a diagnosis. You should swing by next time in Sandplint and I really will get you a beverage, Ive been asking around to get that one dang measurement for a month. PM for details. -Charlie
  4. charles_thomas
    Yeah, those come.back discontinued, and for nussan pulsar. I am trying to get a bit better response without loosing travel. Most people dont seem to mind, but I am VERY harsh on my vehicles, and going too stiff will end my fun, quickly. The weaker Kia springs are close to bang on, they were doing great, until I finished the tube frame, and new bumper. I changed my weight in the front just enough that I am sagging a bit. Did the math, and it came out right, but with very little margin on the weight calc for the spring. So now I'm on the real-World problem solving, the numbers dont alway work. In this case, I'm riding good most the time, but sometimes It'll sag a bit on the front, if I come to a stop quickly it isn't rebounding quite right. Will try the stronger KIA springs after payday. Likely will fix it now that I know the numbers I pulled were too low. Was riding at 7.5, but She was dropping to 6 in that circumstance. With everything else eliminated, I know its the spring -Charlie
  5. charles_thomas
    Yeah, I drive my little 77 over that way frequently! I couldn't find just the loaded ride height in there, that is a write up that I reference regularly. haha. My reading might be off. I am currently running the KIA springs that were listed as a potential front option, but I seem to be a bit mushy, will try out the slightly stronger ones now that I know the ride height is pretty close. I will be redoing my front towers shortly as well, thank you for the info. -Charlie
  6. charles_thomas
    With due respect, Why are you still active on a forum for a car that you clearly have now formed a great aversion to? Its those negative comments that drive people away. If you are going to attack someone for wanting a specific vehicle, perhaps your time would be better spent on the sections of the forum not specifically for THAT vehicle? Just seems like that behavior is Insane, but maybe I'm just grumpy today. -Charlie
  7. charles_thomas
    Awesome! Exactly what I needed, thank you Very much, you are clearly the best person here, haha. Thank you again, If you are ever In Sandpoint ID, I'll buy you a beverage. -Charlie.
  8. charles_thomas
    Anybody? Juzt need some numbers of where the springs are riding at... No-one has a tape measure and a few minutes, dang.
  9. charles_thomas
    Thank you for the pictures. Been trying to describe the whole rear fiberglass cover to a couple people! I saw one. Once.
  10. charles_thomas
    Currently, I am working with my my 77 Coupe, and the springs I have now are the Kia Sephia springs. My current ground clearance is about 11 inches, but I am also running 15 inch toyota wheels with redone subaru hubs. The whole.car is on a custom frame. Consequently any numbers I have are not going to jive very well with anything else, and I dont want to get skewed results from giving what I have, and getting a few "ballpark" numbers. I've had that happen a few times and messed me up. I just need to know if the springs I am using are riding at near where the stock springs on a stock EA82 would ride. All of my suspension geometry *seems* correct, but without a baseline for the loaded stock spring, They are guesswork, and I am looking for a fail point, and need to eliminate all stock variables before redoing any chassis hardpoints. Listing the color anyone measures would also help. I am looking for some real world numbers, if possible. Thank you. - Charlie
  11. charles_thomas
    Yup... Still bump. New add, new price https://spokane.craigslist.org/wto/d/5-subaru-wheels-withr13-toyo/6651784651.html
  12. charles_thomas
    I found that putting a Relay and running 12ga wires made a significant difference in lighting performance.
  13. charles_thomas
    Hello, After MUCH searching of here (and elsewhere) I have almost every Spec ever wanted, save one. I've read the writeups, they are awesome. I have spring load, loose length, total strut length collapsed and not, inner and outer spring diameter, etc. But I cannot seem to find just the standard loaded height of the EA82 wagon front springs! Something has gone hinky in my camber, and the ride height doesn't look quite right, but I do not have the stock height written down. Not the full shock length loaded, or the car ride height, just the spring itself. So, could someone please walk out to their EA82 wagon and measure the spring length from bottom of the tophat to bottom of perch with the car just sitting on the ground? I would really appreciate it, thank you. -Charlie
  14. charles_thomas
    Hard to say without more info. Usually, when clutch is going, or cable is bad, the reverse goes first. Is it grinding? Or just slippinh a lot?does it occasionally just pop out?
  15. charles_thomas
    Thank you, and Yes. Stock EA71 crossmember, and inner tie rods. The mod starts where the original ball joints attach. I refitted and braced the EA82 lower A-Arm end with ball socket to bolt into the three bolts that usually hold the EA71 Ball joint, by doing so I added ~1.5 inches to the a arm length on each side. I then welded for good measure. I used the EA82 outer Tie Rod ends, and added 1 inch to them. It wasn't actually necessary to add to the tie rod ends, but I wanted the extra thread engagement for possible alignment issues in the future. The length change for combining the EA71 inner Tie rods, and EA82 Outer tie rod end comes to exactly the amount that the lower A-arms were extended for the EA82 axles. Overall, had I known ahead that the parts fit, this mod was *almost* as easy as trying to find EA71 brake, bearing, suspension, and axle components. Certainly was faster, once the math was done.
  16. charles_thomas
    Thank you. Yeah, she doesn't sound to bad! It's 2 inch with the appropriate Y-joint for scavenge just a touch before 26 inches to keep the power where I can use it. Those are the good ole Mazda 6 lug 14s with the right offset. The centers are some newer 50mm 'plastic dome' wheel centercap stickers stucj on the original ceneter caps, bent out slightly to fit the axles. I think it isn't turning out half bad, just need some paint, and a whole lot of rust repair.
  17. charles_thomas
    Please update if you get the correct ones as well.
  18. charles_thomas
    Guess I should close this. Ive often been annoyed when I see something that doesnt have a definitive conclusion so... For the record, I finished it. Been my daily driver for quite a few months now, with no issues. Used the 4x4 repeatedly during the winter, no problems. Works great, here is a pic of the front underside, when I was installing the new exhaust. One of getting our Christmas Tree, And a Pic of it sitting outside the shop when I put new center caps on the wheels. Not the best pics, but it's what I had on hand. Totally doable, and done.
  19. charles_thomas
    I ended up going with an almost full square tube frame and remounting everything to that. It added 2 inches of lift, and sure stiffened up the body twist that the extra rust had created. Once I got started, it was way easier than expected. Definitely worth the effort if you are already going to have to figure something out. Someday the body will rust all the way off my now shiney frame. It is a first gen body, but the running gear is now EA81/EA82.
  20. charles_thomas
    Of the ones I have seen, (others I am sure will chime in shortly) it is one or the other. Even the few later models with a gauge and light, only had one sender, and the light was ran off of the gauge. Fastest toubleshoot is to simply re-install the original unit, and see if the gauge reacts. If it does not, I would move to checking for proper ground, and weather the sending unit is using the correct resistance. (Found by either testing, or simply googling the unit numbers to check listed application)
  21. charles_thomas
    As someone who has owned over 30 vehicles, in various stages of restoration, I will say again, in a different way... The vehicles I prize the most, are the ones that are hard to find parts for. Noone that is a real collector wants a bunch of cars that parts exist and can be found easily for. Look at Jay Leno's garage. He doesn't go around always showing you a 69 camaro, does he? It defeates the entire purpose of having something unique. With a vehicle with such a culturally significant impact as the Brat, being the wagon of coupe or what have you variant of that, will likely become something. Will they 20,000 show cars like my Crosley, or a Franklin? Probably not, but it is WAY too early to tell. 5-8k is already a price that is regularly seen being asked, it is only a matter of time before the numbers drop enough that those cars are the ones left, and they get what they are asking. That is how supply and demnd works. Even if the demand doesn't really increase, if it stays the same the supply will eventually drop into it.
  22. charles_thomas
    Memory recalls that similiar speeches have been said about every single car, at one point or another. Only way to know for sure is to wait.
  23. charles_thomas
    Bumpity bump bump.
  24. charles_thomas
    Nice find! I wish my coupe was in that good of condition when I found her, I wouldn't have done as many modifications. Make that car Shiney.
  25. charles_thomas
    As much as I dislike the 'engineer's knew blah blah blah...' Speech, I am going to have to agree with Wagons point on the PCV valve. You are absolutely Correct that on most inline engines, and some V8/V6 engines it does not matter, BUT: On these H4s one side is intake, the other is exhaust. Your flow will stall if you dont vent it right, or recirculate if you connect them. There are several good write-ups on it, hidden under the search button. So, vent one side with a filter or what have you, and stick the other to vacuum. (I have forgotten which one is which.) Otherwise you will experience exactly what Wagons is saying
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