SkankinPickle

I was replacing the struts on a friend's 98 Legacy sedan GT Ltd. As I was removing the driver's strut, there was still a little pressure from the spring and the axle pulled out of the DOJ. Do I need to take the DOJ boot apart to slide it back in or can I just feel blind and push it back in???? Please help me, I need to finish this before my parents come home this after noon!!!! Ahhhhhh! Will an axle from a first gen legacy fit on a second gen Leg (1998 GT)?

GL-10?!? Digital gauges?!? sweetness... don't let this thing die, its definitely an 80's classic. from what i've heard, once the freeze plugs have fallen out, you will need to find new ones to install, yet i drove an EA-81 around for a month after reusing an old freeze plug in my GL-10 wagon. Still the latter approach should only be a temporary solution to be safe, cause if it falls out while driving...well two words, chocolate milkshake.

the wires that go from the power window relay to the center consol switch run under the carpet right under your feet beneath the carpet in the front. maybe the insulation has worn off in a spot and grounded out some how. I say first off lift up the carpet on the driver's side and check the condition of the wires.

on the digital ones there is a tinted peice of clear plastic which makes all the electronics that don't light up inside the dash invisible from the driver's perspective. Maybe you could just take the front part off and cut a big piece of colored transparency and place it on top to chance the color as it goes through it...

yeah, best bet is to find something in the junk yard. as in another car that has a better dash than your's and swap them out. for the bolts at the very front of the dash under the black plastic defroster vent cover, use a 10mm socket with a vise grip at an angle. works like a charm!

lord all mighty! there is a freakin plethora of EA-81s at the lynnwood Pull-a-Part: Two 1980 4x4 EA-71 hatchbacks: both w/Tan&Brown interior '83 or '84 Black GL-10 sedan: PERFECT gray dash (a lot of dust but OMG good); good to ok fuzzy four-door gray door panels (drivers door panel masinite bent at the part the goes behind the side of the dash when the door is shut, but still a big stretch if you want to use it on your car--other three r good) Carter/Weber carb, and digi is gone...Looks like someone converted to analog, snip it all and save a lot of time converting. '80 or '81 2WD wagon. factory early-style huge chrome roof rack and fabulously good condition rear gray seat, top and bottom. Light gray carpet front not very good on drivers side, but passenger side is TIGHT(I would lick it) rear seemed good but forgot to look real close. '82 cream colored coupe DL. Really good light brown two-door interior (the beige second gen interior color used from 82-89) ton of EA-82s three turbos; no LSD; one set of rear disk brakes. one turbo sedan has the pimp interior (dark gray w/ red). Turbone, there was a set of rear adjustable struts, but the wagon they were on had 280k on it, wasn't sure if you would want them. at least three first gen legacies, didn't look at them at all.

went there this after noon and found the two still on the car. (needed exactly three to finish a set of spares I already have) dropped them off by the office and went back for a rear bumper for my hatch; came back and uhhh:rolleyes:... seems the wheels sprouted some legs of there own. They had really nice tires on them too. hey Mc-ster, need some spares? I have two extra...oval hole 14"s

I went back friday May, 26 and it was crushed...Boooooooo Tacoma, WA--was there Sunday and there is a white with blue interior four door sedan that had a stage-one single round head light grill(DL, all black with the rectangle turn signals) in hella good condition. the blue in the subaru emblem was still there and bright in color too. The tail light's (DL, no chrome) where in perfect exterior shape, as in no visible cracks at all. The little chrome vent-trim was in pretty good shape(the one that goes on the rear A-pillar right behind the rear door), but someone already took the passenger side one. The dash is black and cracked. The rest of the interior is in OK shape. deffinitely some excellent parts there for a daily driver. Front fenders looked good and the rest of the body is in pretty good shape. Two wheel drive, five speed: I wonder why it is in the yard. Someone took apart the carb for some internal part i think, but everything else is there.

the five lug swap will only bolt onto the rear of an EA-81. the front is a whole nother story... anyone done five lug swap on the front of a second gen?

are you trying to sell it?!?

probably so he can still have the option to switch back to stock rims if he wants later on, right? with the extra weight of the wider rims and tires and having the off set so far away from stock is it pretty easy to bend control arms/ tie rods??

geese man, you are really going all out. yeah, it took one hundred dollars (US) to win my head socket and valve tool on Ebay. that things gonna be sweet when you're done. you just going for all stock components or are there any mods happening down the road?? PICTURES!?! c'mon you can't just tease us like this...

this was my dream, at one time, then someone pulled the rug out from under my hook-up in alaska. Doh! no dual-carbed EA-81 with stright-in intake and siameased exahust ports for me. anyway, the decal is the same as the USDM decal that they put on four wheel drive hatchbacks here, just that the little part that says 4WD should say SRX instead. all these pics are in my gallery(bigger size too): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=36 also, my dad does stuff like this far a living, so i could have some made up in any color you would like. let me know. and if not, the best way to do it is to use some narrow paper tape and line the outer extremes of where you want the decal and then use thin paper and a pencil to make a rubbing of the papertape. then scan it into a computer and fix/alter to perfection.

do you have a pic of the white ones??? -thanks

i guess this is what would happen if they put a subaru on "pimp my ride" keep it, easy as pie to switch a stock motor on one of those. if not there is plenty of people here that have put bigger engines in rus like this before.

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alright fine... i'll take that ten percent, and actually sind it to you this time. galen, there are two places the wires ground under the drivers side of the dash: on one of the two bolts that holds the steering column to the body, and one (underneath the speaker) on or imediately next to the far left side of the metal bracket that the fuse holder is bolted to. other than that, it most likely is in the grounds in the engine compartment.

northie, i thought that carfreak got them scanned for you instead since i didn't hear from you. my bad completely, if you still want the FSM ('83) let me know. freak, the bars of just my temp gauge on my original one would all be fading in and out, like each bar would be a different brightness, until i grounded the temp sensor wire in the engine compartment. at which time they all would light up the same reading full temp. nerver figured it out though...

i thought you all ready had it?? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=5772&sort=1&cat=500&page=5

my trip computer still goes black after ten or fifteen minutes of driving. luckily it has come back to life after the two times it has done it--my original one didn't. this is on a broken one i got from pull-a-part, i wouldn't dare put the working turbo one i just got in it till it's all A-OK. though even with my almost fully working old one it would occasionally go black and the buzzer would come on halfway driving somewhere. Also, before any of this started, when i would first start the car, once out of every three times the gas gauge would read full no matter how much gas was in it for a minute or two after turning on the ignition switch, then go back to actual. it sometimes would not go back to actual at all unless i turned the engine on or let it sit with just the ignition on for around ten minutes. what about installing some sort of external voltage regulator in line somewhere? is too much voltage being produced usually the primary problem and/or bad grounds that cause electrical pressure to build or is there something else that could be going on? suggestions, ideas? please, i have no idea where to start... -no hijack intended (just consolidation) -

i fixed a lot of the fluttery ignition issues by replacing the ground wire from the engine to the battery(had very light corrosion through almost it's entire lengh) as well as sanding and/or replacing all of the grounding components (connecters,wires) from the battery to the wagons body. oh and hit all that up with some silicone grease or something to protect it form future corrosion. as for the alternator, i am in the same boat. i had it tested last week with satisfactory results (so says the test machine, yeah sure). so i'm am gonna have to buy another new one or buy like three used ones from the junk yard OR just maybe find someone with an o-scope :brow:

hey corky, cool if I stop by for a little bit? living right down the street and all, i'm pretty sure i could make it.

great score man, you're going to buy it right? just think you'll be helping keep older subaru's alive and well--your brat. Even with the dual carb set-up alone it's definitely worth it. well, how rare are the second generation cars with dual carbs there in new Zealand? I so wish they had them here.

the first RX, second generation body style: the translator for my browser is horrible, but this site is one to drool over: http://216.239.39.104/translate_c?hl=en&u=http://www.geocities.co.jp/MotorCity-Pit/9167/&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dsubaru%2Bsrx%2Bea-81%26num%3D30%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26as_qdr%3Dall

what about in an SVX?