SkankinPickle

oh oh, if you can get the bracket that supports the 4WD shifter from the dual range vehicle. it's the bracket that bolts to the floor pan tunnel with two bolts (i'm pretty sure, about the two bolts). anyway, this peice is different on the single range cars. it will work with out this piece, but the shifter will be pushed all the way down against the plastic and makes it harder to dissengage the transfer case sometimes. *this is from experience of my 1980 hatchback single range that was converted to D/R.

i could not find a wrench that small so i never actually used one, that's just what it said in the "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive" manual, so i assumed that a 5mm one would work. no big deal, but if you find out what size any time soon pm me or something. i would like to know. thanks yo

well, you don't need anything special to take the cylinder head off, yet when you're torquing the seven nuts and two bolts for the rocker arm the latter object gets in the way of one sort-of two of the nuts inside the valve cover of the cyli head (the center most one and the one of the side nuts). as for a valve adjuster, you can use a 12mm closed end wrench, and a 5mm open end wrench(if you can find one) or instead a 4'' , or really small, crescent wrench. i used a crescent wrench and actually like it better than the valve adjuster. be pantient though, it takes a little while to get the hang of this method. this is cause as you tighten the locking nut the adjuster nut moves a little too. so it takes some time to be able to predict how far it will move. for the head socket you can make one your self, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2618&highlight=head+socket or try this: (part # in FSM is 499987006) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27976&highlight=head+socket *i spent way too long writing this, by the time i posted two people had aready replyed, oh well:rolleyes:

yo yo finished

first, inside the car, remove the 4WD lever cover(it will pop right off after you unsnap the boot). now unscrew and partially remove the rear center console (towards the back of the car, the one that houses the E-brake) with that lifted up a little unscrew the shifter knob and the front part of the console. after that the front part should lift right out. now shift into 4WD low and remove the 17mm nut [39-49 Nm(4.0-5.0kg/m, 29-36ft/lb)]that holds the 4WD shifter to the linkage. remove the rubber seal by unscrewing the large metal rectangle that secures it to the body. oh, also find some cheep masking tape or something similar and rap the upper half of the chrome on the shifter lever so it doesn't scratch or become damaged while you're dropping it through the body. alright you're done, at least inside anyway. -Next, disconnect the wires for the reverse lights and stuff along with the speedometer cable (be careful on the latter because the nut is made of plastic). you'll probably want to take out the spare tire support now too cause you'll have to do it latter anyway. -after that lift the car, put it on jack stands. make sure the car is high enough to allow the transmission to clear underneath when you're pulling it out. remove exhaust( i got away with just disconnecting the exhaust manifold from the rest of the exhaust system first, and then removing the manifold form the engine, then i propped the piece near the drive line over to one side). -remove transverse link a.k.a. swaybar. there are two bolts on each bracket that hold it to the body, and one bolt on each trailing arm. for all six bolts[18-22 Nm(1.8-2.2kg/m, 13-16ft/lb)] -After that's done, take out the 14mm bolt (14mm nut as well)[59-69 Nm(6-7kg/m, 43-51ft/lb)] that holds the lower control arm onto the crossmember (both sides, right!). -Now while you're down there loosen, all most all the way, the two nuts(14mm)[46-54 Nm(4.7-5.5kg/m, 34-40ft/lb)], one on each side, that hold the engine to the tranny. these ones are kind of hard to get to...i used a socket attachment that looks like the U-joint on a driveshaft. -up top, disconnect the clutch and hill holder cable, as well as the starter, which has a 17mm nut on the bottom and a 14mm bolt on the top. and of course take the battery cables off the battery before hand. after that take off the 14mm bolt and nut[46-54 Nm(4.7-5.5kg/m, 34-40ft/lb)] on the other side of the top that holds the engine to the transmission. -time to remove the axles from the transmission, and you will need to make a special tool using a 3/16 in. punch (like a chisel) and a grinder. u just need to grind down some of the fatter portion of the punch so it will tap out the axle's spring pin without allowing the punch to go far enough in to-push the spring pin all the way out of the axle. you want to tap out the pin as little as possible, yet just enough to allow the axle to be removed from the transmission. you can grind it more but it makes things a whole lot easier if you spend the time to grind it just right. once the axle is free push the wheels away from the car to separate axles from transmission. -now disconnect drive shaft from the rear differential. there are four bolts[18-25 Nm(1.8-2.5kg/m, 13-18ft/lb)]. after those are out lower rear of the shaft and slide the driveline out of the tranny by carefully pulling. if there is oil in the trans then a bit will drain out of the end after you pull it out. -remove the two nuts that secure the tranny mounts. i've seen these nuts in 14mm and 17mm[34-47 Nm(3.5-4.8kg/m, 25-35ft/lb)], you might have something different. you will need a deep socket of what ever size to remove the nuts though. Now, loosen (about half way) the four bolts[20-25 Nm(2.0-2.6kg/m, 14-19ft/lb)maybe a little tighter if you aren't using new self locking nuts] that hold the tranny crossmember to the body. also there is a bracket that holds one of the emergency brake cables that needs to be disconnected so the cable doesn't get in the way. i think it's on the driver's side but it might be different for you cause of RHD vehicle. -back up top again, loosen nut (by approximately 10mm or 0.39in) which retains pitch stopper (the washer and rubber piece)to the transmission side, and tighten nut by an equal amount on the engine side. -securely support transmission by placing a hydro jack under it. after that's done completely remove the tranny crossmember. remove the two nuts which secure the engine to the transmission, and remove transmission from the vehicle. yess!!!!! the tranny is heavy, but not that heavy. you can remove it by your self if you are really careful, yet having a friend there for installation is all most a must. Although i had put in a new clutch so that might have made it a little more difficult to install. install in reverse order and follow the torque specs in the description if you have a torque wrench. if not it's not that big if a deal, make sure you tighten everything good enough (remember, aluminum is softer than steel). most importantly have fun, this is a really easy job for our subarus and very rewarding after you finally get to roll in your now fixed car. hope this helps

dude, you should ask in the marketplace, if you want to sell them. all you need is an adapter plate to make them fit on any subaru's intake manifold. (you can buy the adapter plate from redline, webber, or from a place called bow-wow/autovice out here in the PNW; don't know about eastcoast though) here's some useful links: http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/weber_to_subaru.htm http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29778

is it an auto or five speed d/r? it's good though, once the old gen guys start moving toword the EJs you'll aready have most of the swaping issues figured out.

we should ask brian or shawn to upload a pic of it into the USRM!!!

alright, check this out. my home page is set to CNN, one day i open my web browser and up pops an image of a fiery wreckage described in the headline as being used by hamas (the palestinian militant group) as a car bomb in their latest attack (or shall we say retaliation) on the israeli people. of course after further inspection of the car still on fire pictured in the story i noticed the tail lights looked strangely familiar. ...then it hit me. that's a really high top camper on that gen II. it's nice to know subaus are playing their role in the middle-eastern apartheid.

i would be very interested in an stock or modded EA-81 hood as well.

if it makes you feel anybetter my 83 4x4 wagon has tried three coils, two distributors, new cap/rotor, plugs, wires and still nothing!!! no spark comming out of the coil. the only thing i haven't tryed( which i'll be doing tomorrow) is taking a voltometer to every connection in the system. i sure hope i find the problem too, it's been two weeks and i don't want to ride the bus anymore.

got it! ok, now i have a purpose (with more questions to come later of course) thank you!

that's all you've done to it? :-p come on that's the extra condensed short form, right? "...bar and bumpers(made my me)" i like that part. dude, i know about the silver four wheeled device. all you have to do is look to the right of the pic in your sig to understand you know what's up. just saw the pics of the welder yesterday too, that's tight. point was that anyone other than us sube guys don’t know the exact limits of our cars. if we could find a way to make the cost manageable it would be easy to get away with. then we would have even more people focusing on a narrowing margin of problem areas. what part of the axle is the weak spot? CVj? didn't someone a while back mention modifying porsche axles? maybe we could try having parts of the axle hardened with less destructible coatings? there's got to be a way, somehow or is the direction of IRS futile. (depending on your goal though) Qman? anyone else? thoughts

plus if you had one wouldn't it be more insentive to make further modifications... it's a win win situation for everyone. *in the back ground someone says, hey look that guy with 88 posts is talkin hella smack

maybe if you just convinced everyone that it would be cool to have one... ...AND there's your demand. still, having a button to press inside the car to have an instant welded rear (essentially) and then a minute later disengage for normal driving... you make the call. Qman, you're just being practical. no one can really rationally say anything to the contrary. i concur (seriously). yet...:-\ has anyone seen my flame thrower, oh wait, there it is sometimes you got to push the limits of acceptability to have something more bad rump roast than previously thought possible. i would say a big thing about off roading subarus is showing off your guns. i mean if you really wanted a highly capable trail rig it would be a whole lot easier to simply start somewhere else. off roading a commuter car? crazy? think about this, the same company that is breaking ground with the sti has gained quite the reputation in recent years, which has changed the way people think when you say the name SUBARU. and this same company way back in the seventies says, hey why don’t we make a 4WD station wagon, and while we're at it let's make the brat and a hatchback. they could have stopped with the coupe for rallying, but they didn't. instead they start aggressively marketing a crazy small niche. just like Fuji Heavy Industry we're crazy too. but why not grab the first corola or 73 nova and weld some wacky suspension underneath? cause that would be just plain weird. we choose subaru because it's such a undeniably practical start. and then you get the privilege in saying i have a lifted subaru with swampers on it. yes, wanting a locker on your stock wagon with pugs and fat snow tires would have to be questioned, yet i think there's enough people out there with lifted subies to qualify demand. Anyone?

COOL! how did you keep the front wheels from falling off? yeah i didn't know if it would be too much stress on the weld. would you all say the right axle is the advantageous one to take out? probably better to have more control for left hand turns than to pull donuts in front of oncoming traffic. AND TO ALL OF YOU WHO HAVE SNOW, lucky bastards...

it seems that a lot of people are pullin their axles in exchange for the off road capabilities of the welded rear differential. question is, what happens if you engage the rear drive train with one of the axles off? will this cause any damage other than a little excessive wear? also, is the rear axle you pull arbitrary or is there one that's better than the other? just curious.

if you own anything made before 1981 (in king county, WA) you don't have to have emissions anymore, unless you sell your car of course. strait cherry bomb for my hatch, yesssss!

i second that motion...

there's no way that the first one is the same as quattro san. i know the window tinting difference could be held to scrutiny, yet the first one has the side trim without the chrome. why would thay take the time to switch the trim to the GL molding that has the chrome strip on it. yes, it's possible, but the amount of time and effort involved doesn't really make the aesthetic gain seem very plausible (yet i violate this notion every day while working on my subarus, so...). finally, being almost certain, the front core-support mounts for the grill are welded on in different locations for the 80-81 grill style compared to the 82 and up dual headlight grills. so switching from the 1980 grill to the 82 style third eye grill setup would take an extensive amount of work to accomplish (as compared to a bolt on/off conversion). despite all of this, i just wish my hatch looked like the car in either one of those pictures. sweeetness, and the rear spolier!?! corky, do you have any more pics of the this or these cars from that time period (when they were brand new or close to). i towed my hatch to the bodyshop last weekend and i need some help with ideas for painting. would much appreciate the access to your developing subaru archive. -justin

here's some more pics that corky posted about a year ago... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=829&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=828&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 gelan you are one lucky mofo!

are these really EA-82 mirrors? i only have pre 84 cars and can not tell if the mounting bracket in the pic would fit a loyale body style vehicle. if they do, despite the price, defininatly a tight mod. LOOK: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7938612910&category=33649 left side: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7938612906&category=33649

ahhhhh, i would put them on my 83 wagon, and that's the reaction i would want. it definately would stand out. it's ok, maybe one day someone in Japan will come on the board that speaks english. yeah, thanks alot for checkin though. if i come across any 70's subaru i'll hit you up. not very many in the seattle metropolitan area.

hi elad, i am curious as if the mirrors dipicted in the picture below were used on EA-81 vehicles in israel? (i hope, i hope, i hope) -justin

look at the bottom of the struts. there should be two nuts, one each side, with bolts going into the bottom spring plate. if your car's struts have this then you can adjust the height something like 1.5 inches. if the spring plate is resting down on the bracket that the nuts are tighted to then you can only raise them. thus giving you more posi camber. if there is a space between the bracket and the bottom spring plate than you can lower the front end a little and loose some of or all the positive camber. if you want to keep the height could you not just put some washers inbetween the frame and the cross member?? anyone? this should help neutralize the camber, but haven't tried this my self. but now that i think of it i am going to try it on my hatch. peace, justin