kayoteq

I've got some floor parts from a blue 80-84 automatic wagon, 4wd. Don't have the radio/dash part, I gave it away to someone. You might consider also the rear part of the console from a 85-up wagon, just have to anchor the rear a bit, thread the belt latches through. Planning to put some toys in there with all the room the belts normally go. Armrest is nice.

I bypassed it with some hose juggling and I'll see what shows up in the filter area. I've been doing a lot of tuning up and timing so all my baselines are gone, so it didn't seem to be any worse or better from my perspective. Not tested compression.. I guess I should, someday.

Okay, I'm about phoenix-like back from the electrical dead, and by gosh lots of things are nice, new, clean, adjusted, etc. etc. So, I'm checking everything and every noise. Cleaning hoses, outside and in.. and something's come up that's a bit of a mystery. A large nut-ish type thing in the joint of the elbow of the hose attaching to the passenger side valve cover. Water-tight. In fact the barrel was full of water. of sorts. What reasoning for this? Should I remove it and see what occours? Not into stunts, but I'm sort of into running the car as stock as possible. I don't see this as having fallen into the hose, it's in there good. In fact I'll probably just get another elbow joint the same size and swap it. Unless there's a good reason..

Built a relay system out of my spares, installed that in in place. Paranoid as anything to use that hot-swtiched pump. (with a shutoff switch on the dash) I've changed so many things out that I'm going to have to re-tune the car, as I can barely get across the yard.

So it's not so easy, huh? I have enough problems with the 70 components I have. Hence my hunting expedition for suitable connectors to make a safe repair/reroute under the Brat dash. Complicated enough.

So I go to my local Subie junkyard, Norris Foreign Auto in Elizabethon TN.. in search of relays to replicate the fuel pump relay, salvaged from a Gen 3, Anyway, In talking to the manager, it seems those 85-89 (EA82)s are in danger of recycling, (forklift and truck type, not just parts-pull rows) But most of them seem to still have several of the wish-list items from the SPFI conversion.. Would anybody be interested in EA82 harness and/or ECU extracted as a package? There may be a half-dozen still out there in the yard. They pulled the motors but left the ECU. Go fig.

Coolness! Hmm.. I may have to try that. I've tried everything else and I've been looking sourly at that coil- to dist wire all this time, but not till I check out the rest of my wiring. Mine, I'm afraid is not as simple, it seems.

Here's a 86 schematic I found online I'm wondering if they were trying to fix a voltage issue with the 86 model, but don't know if the schematic means 86 only or 86-on.

Someone may have clearer instructions, (such as http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/83314-wiring-diagram-for-passing-light-3rd-eye-how-is-it-done/) but you need a always-on hot for supplying the relay circuit, and switched power for the lamp switch. This way when you turn the car off the light goes off and the door closes. Or you can wire it to stay on without the key, just run the switch to hot, and hope the battery stays good if you forget. I wired it to key switch because I forget. Main tricky parts is cutting out the welded radiator support, at the front. not to worry, that lamp bracket is more substantial than what you're removing. I removed just enough, and then part two: Cutting the newer grille (in my case) to fit the cyclops door. You'll have to get everything locked down grille-wise to make sure the door clears the grille smoothly. Interior: Drill out blank circle. May be easier to remove and drill, but otherwise, put the hole in, put the switch in behind it... Be careful, one car I pulled wires from seemed to have had damage from a failed lamp switch. It breaks apart, leaving all those nice bare leads right in the middle of metal brackets. I gave mine a wrap in electrical tape just to be sure. Also, there's a couple of levels of bulb brightness you can get. I went for the lower wattage because I have 4 other headlamps and was concerned about heat.

grounding out should be popping a fuse. A fusible link. something. It seems to defy the flow of electrons itself. Me, personally I think I may have a melted wire in the harness between the coil and the firewall. I ran it too long with a bad alternator..

The 'yellow plug' is one of the main multi-wire (18?) harness connectors behind the fuse box, going into the firewall. The ground is in the inside/cabin wiring as far as I can tell. Should I be calling it a short to avoid confusion with --<< ground

Hopefully this saves some steps, Bratlife. I'm gonna find it. Naru, The grounding exists on just the wire. Not hooked up to the coil. The ground goes away when I unplug the yellow plug under the dash. No 'flickering' when I jiggle the wire harness. So it's on the cabin-rear side of the firewall. What I have found, so far, is corroded wires under the seat, back passenger side (the gas wire is on driver side behind the panel) Two wires bad behind the gas door (access panel passenger rear) My alternator went nuts right before this, maybe it burnt a couple of leads.

Thanks. I hope this helps everybody, of course. mysteriously, there's at least 3 of us on here with the same issues right now and something we're all missing. . I am of suspicion of the Black/white wire (the one going from the dist module, to the coil, and around the motor a couple of places) grounding somewhere in the wire harness between the motor and the firewall/dash plug. Elsewhere on the car.. I repaired a corroded lead on an unused plug in the floor below the passenger. When I was done, I sealed the ends with a strip of electrical tape. It's possible those redundant plugs were shorting their 12v onto the chassis. Replaced two of them, both corroded. So, given the right conditions, those leads will melt themselves off into green goo. Well, not like that, but they certainly become fragile. One Idea, if I still can't get that BW grounding resolved, is to isolate the old one run a new BW circuit. Test wires at first.

How do you test the module? Similar problems, and I'm on my third module. Could the distributor itself (mechanical) have a failure?

I'm in the same boat here. I've gone all over the thing and swapped parts all over the place. My investigations are now going toward the wires between the relay and the pump. Some Brumby forums mention problems with grounding of the pump wires. So, getting out the meter and test light and more prising. I've not investigated the passenger area of the car yet. Will let you know if I find the resident gremilin. (Credit to AG Macay's youtube video on his Brumby restoration, " ")