kabarakh

Lol it's an EA81. My bad, I'm just used to writing EA82 on here. Mines an '88 hers is an '83.

I'm in the middle of converting my girls EA82 wagon to the SPFI system, using General Disorders tutorial as a rough guide. I've lucked out on it, as it was equipped with both cruise control and a feedback carb, so I was able to isolate the VSS immediately, and i know it has a working ECS light. I had originally put a weber on it, so the feedback computer has been removed, but the reference guide doesn't specify what color wire in the harness was for the ECS light the way it specifies the VSS wire color and location. My research seems to indicate the wire should be solid white in the computer portion of the harness, but i'm not 100% sure on it.. (I can't seem to find a good wiring diagram for the carter/weber carb) My question is... Does anyone happen to know what color the wire for the ECS light is so I can just tap into it? Thank you for your time!!!!

Bump for anymore input... It really is an irritating symptom. Not crippling by any means, but someone has to have a solution. None of my searches have come up with anything. I leave in Washington, so it never really gets that cold (although moisture is definitely prevalent) but it doesn't matter how warm the ambient temperature is, i can't find reverse until the car/engine is warm.

Mine does the same thing. Quite interested to hear any input.

Bolts tend to get stuck from the exhaust temps and then the heads break off

Pulled off my IACV to clean it and flip it around while doing my EA81 SPFI swap, and the gasket ripped in half. Anyone have a source or part number for a new gasket? Or will a little RTV or gasket maker work in this application? Thanks!

He actually used the original wiring from a junkyard switch and spliced the end to the new ignition. No stock wires were modified. My new switch/cylinder plugged in just like it should.

1983 Subaru Gl.... I just replaced the ignition cylinder (the whole unit) the previous owner had wired in an aftermarket ignition and switch into the drivers kick panel. My question is this... Before I replaced the original cylinder and removed the aftermarket one every time I opened any door (rear hatch included) the open door chime would go off. This was unlike my 88 GL, which would only chime when the drivers door was open. Now that i have replaced it however i no longer get any chime whatsoever, regardless of any doors being open. This isn't really an issue for me as I hated the chime, I'm just curious what would possibly cause that to happen. It was instant, as soon as I hooked the batteries back up after putting in the new lock cylinder the chimes were gone. All the fuses are fine, etc... Just seemed strange.

Anyone happen to know the OEM part number for a 1983 Subaru Clutch Cable? Or 1982, it's the earlier style of cable. I'm having a hell of a time finding one from any local auto shops, and I work all week and can't get the original cable to the dealership to get a match. It's for a 2wd not 4wd if it makes a difference Thanks! Clinton

Also, you'll want to keep the original seatbelt latch from the subi seat, as I recall the escort one didn't latch onto the original seatbelt.

The seats from '90-'94 ford escorts are almost a perfect bolt in. You take the rails off the the Subi seats and widen the rear hole about an 8th of an inch. They bolt straight on. I replaced the seats in the girlfriends '83 with some from a '92 and it made a world of difference.

'88 GL wagon, 373,000 miles and running strong!

The fact of the matter is that you found the cupholder option that puts all ours to shame... What you keep in it is your business, but thank you for the post! Best cupholder option I've ever seen

Mine isn't broken, but I'm getting ready to replace the heater core on my girlfriends subaru (using the USRM method) and figured as long as I was in there I would replace the valve as well. Thank you!

Does anyone know the part number for the Heater Control Valve? (1983 Subaru GL Wagon) Thanks!

I concur. I know a guy that snapped his front cv and drove it in 4wd as a 'rear wheel drive' vehicle for just under a year, commuting almost 150 miles a day before he sold it... Guy who bought it replaced the cv and never had any issues.

The official 6 lug redrill thread is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=132536 The disc brake conversion can be found here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49975 and here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53479 And one of the many 2" lift threads can be found here : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94629 There are lots of other threads covering this in the offroad section. Good luck!

What he said... I just did mine, and it's not even remotely difficult with a punch and hammer. I did end up replacing my ball joints, but that's just because they were shot. If yours are fine you don't need to touch it after removing the balljoint from the knuckle. Front bearings are a cakewalk compared to the rears.

My weber likes to run with the timing at almost 20 degrees, So I'd definitley advance it. near the bottom of this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74206 you can find the correct routing for the PCV system. and at this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21562&highlight=jets you can find the correct method for tuning your Weber, which should stop the dieseling.

I got mine from subarupartslive.com Any Subaru Dealer should have them available, most have a parts search on their websites. Part number is 21200AA121 Oh, and the gasket is 11072AA030

Fuel pump is on the passengers side of the car, just in front of the rear wheel. Don't know if it's your issue, but the only time my carb ('83 GL, both with carter and weber) ever spit out gas was when I had the plug wires mixed up. If you installed a new weber and it still won't idle, I'd double check your vacuum lines to make sure everything is plugged/installed, and then refer to the weber tuning instructions found here... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21562&highlight=jets

Same thing happened to my buddies '84 awhile back. It ended up being a single inch or so section of wire that had corroded. I believe it was under his grill somewhere, but apparently it was far enough ahead in the circuit that when it corroded out it killed everything except his running lights and his hazards. Took us about a week to track it down.

Just ordered an adaptor plate from Shawn... You should go through him, supporting his site, RetroRoo, helps out the USMB!

Gonna have to stop by a pick and pull on my way home tonight... Love it!

That looks like a sweet idea, let us know how it goes! I'm interested to see how easy it is on a subi rather than a jeep.