kabarakh

I'll give that a shot, but as I stated in my OP, It now has a brand new alternator installed and is still exhibiting the same symptoms. My original thought actually was that the VR was going bad somehow, but with the new alternator installed I'm not sure if that was the case. My old one was definitley bad though, my in-dash charging gauge was almost on the red.

I do not know if it's an out of the blue problem or not... When I purchased the car the battery in it was shot, but It also needed a new clutch so when I got it home I pulled the engine out to put in a new clutch. I was very careful about labeling everything though. My plan is to start by redoing all the grounds and install a new ignition switch. What kind of diode should I put on the wire to test it? Thanks for all the replies! I'm sure it's something stupid somewhere that I've missed.

Pretty sure mine only has one Voltage regulator, it's the internally regulated one in the alternator. As far as I can tell from my research every subaru after '81 used internal.

83 Subaru GL. I've been having issues with the car continuing to run, but I discovered that it will turn off when the alternator is unplugged. The alternator was going bad anyway, so I went ahead and got a new one, but the same thing happens. Alternator plugged in: car won't turn off with key. Alternator unplugged: car both starts and stops running with key. I'm at a loss, I'm going to change out the ignition switch next, but anyone else have any ideas?

Choke's wigging out, and it's just not running as good as it could beyond that (I don't know much about carbs so I can't really be more specific) I do know that eventually I would like to go either fuel injected or Weber. Plus I know that the bushings in my distributor are wearing (determined by a timing light) so I've been leaning towards fuel injection... but I know too little about either method to make an 'easy' decision. As far as what I have goes, i have no doubt that a new set of gaskets and a float valve would make a huge difference... both are rarely a bad idea lol

1983 GL, fwd wagon, carb'd. So I'm debating between going fuel injected or a weber and my situation is this... The car is a fwd (2wd), so the distributor (Nippon-Denso) is not compatible with the fuel injection swap... I would have to find/source a Hitachi Distributor. The carburetor on the car is a Carter/Weber, so I would have to find a Hitachi intake manifold in order to get an adapter plate to convert it to a Weber Carb. Any suggestions? Which would be cheaper/which route should I go? Alternatively, how complicated is it to rebuild a Carter/Weber? I've had no luck finding rebuild kits for them, and it's acting up on me. Thanks in advance for any/all input :-\

As far as new one's go, from what I've dug up on the forums 4wd came with hitachi distributors, and fwd came with nippon-denso. Difference was the length of the shaft for the gear iirc.

short answer from what i can find is... yes, you can. unsure of the details about when however... looking forward to seeing other results on this! Lookup "restoring license plates/repainting license plates" on google and there is quite a bit of info.

Got it! it took a die grinder, sawzall, drill, cold chisel, sledgehammer, and vice grips to get it off, but I got it! Now, does anyone have any pointers on putting wheel bearings in for a 2WD? Do I just poke them in there and make sure the hub tightens down with the new nut?

Nevermind, found this info... Size of rear axle nut on fwd (2WD) 1980-1987 Subarus... M20x1.5, 1.17" hex 0.31" height.

Anyone happen to know the thread pattern for that nut off hand? If I can't dig one up at a pull-a-part or at my local dealership I may have to find something that will work somewhere else... it would be helpful to know the size going into the search.

I thought it was odd too, it's a much smaller nut (width wise) then the 'normal' 36mm one on my 4wd '88 subi. If the thread pattern is the same I'm planning on swapping it out with the 36mm castle nut so that it sticks out enough to get a proper tool on it. If you figure the 36mm nuts are about an inch(ish) thick then this one is maybe a half inch thick. much smaller profile.

It's a 6pt 30mm impact socket. Verified it to be the right dimensions on the other undamaged nut on the other side of the car, after this one rounded off... I'm amazed it happened too, I think the washer behind it somehow got warped and is acting as a lock washer now. Real PITA whatever caused it... it's amazing how things can go downhill so quickly.

That was my first idea, but the nut is recessed in the hub so I can't get a grip on the thing with a pipe wrench. I'll give it another go though.

I probably do, and once I get it off bearings will be on the list (they're easy since it's 2wd) I'll give the smaller socket a try, it just irritates me to no end that it happened... now I've gotta track down a new nut too.

'83 GL. Rear nut on my spindle wasn't tight, tire was wobbling. Apparently the washer or something was binding it up though, because in my efforts to loosen (or tighten) the nut it rounded off completely. Now I can't get any socket or anything on it. Any ideas? I'm at my wits end, if I can't get it figured out I may be in a situation where I have to cut the whole thing off and buy a new hub assembly. it's 2wd btw

I second every part of that

FelPro permatorques are not included in the set I used, i purchased them separately. The kit I purchased for the reseal when I did my '88 GL included the oil pump gaskets, oil pan gaskets, water pump gaskets, front rear and cam seals, new water pump seal, and a couple other things. part number was FPCS9390 Felpro also makes a full gasket set (including heads) with a part number of FPHS9392PT2 This includes the valve cover gaskets, as well as a bunch of other stuff (not sure what all it is, but it is substantially more expensive... depends on how gung-ho you want to get) Exhaust gaskets and o-rings get from Subaru, no exception. Even if they are included in the bigger fel-pro kit use Subaru OEM for both. I purchased my kit and HG's from partstrain.com

This might be a stupid question on my part, but are you sure you got both halves of the original bearing off of the cv? I had one stuck on when I did my first bearing change and didn't notice it, since I didn't know what I was looking at, so obviously it wouldn't go it all the way lol. If you can get it far enough through to get a few threads on the castle nut you can use two claw hammers to pry it through a little bit at a time. It's a tight fit.

Anything helps, I'm new to carbs and until I can get a weber anything I can do to improve this one is... well, an improvement appreciate it regardless of whether the pics can be had or not! SPFI here I come... lol

I second the motion!

Yes, I can stall it out, and I can also turn the key into the on position and bump start it. Just can't turn it off normally.

no, everything else turns off, fans, lights, wipers, etc. I'll check the coil tomorrow. Appreciate all the input!

Done quite a few searches using different phrases, but haven't really found any definitive answers. My car (1983 ea81 carb) won't shut off when I turn the key off, I've checked the timing on the distributor (to make sure it isn't advanced to far) and it's spot on. Only way to shut the car off is to plug the air intake. Am I looking at replacing the ignition column or is there something I'm missing? Thanks!

Anyone know anyplace I can find one of the clamps that help to attach the clutch cable to the pedal assembly? alternatively, does anyone have a workaround to attach the cable to the assembly? The previous owner of my latest subaru failed to attach or include the cable clamp when he put in the latest cable.