kabarakh

Thought this might serve as a good reminder of the importance of making sure your emergency brake is nice and tight... Otherwise your dog might kick it out of gear and take it for a joy ride. Have since upgraded to a nice reliable EA82... With a really tight E-brake.

That was my solution for two years before i got my s*** together and did the heater core.

I'd go for 2 in a large

Thats because you're "supposed" to put it in so slowly that it doesn't stall out, drops at a time if you have to. The stuff contains a lot of Naptha so I think the theory is that doing it super slowly prevents damage from all the naptha burning too quickly, as well as allowing it to build up in the system. I know a few people who dribble it in until they're almost out of the stuff and then dump the rest in and allow it to kill the engine (all without revving the engine at all... one person pouring it in only) which allows some of it to remain in a liquid state while you wait the ten-fifteen minutes. I've done it both ways, quick and fast. The good news is that it cleans either way

When it's put into the vacuum lines it will all burn up, same when it's put into your gas. Most who I've talked to about it recommend only adding it to your oil if you have an oil change coming up in a few hundred miles, it cleans your oil system just as thoroughly, but (unless your burning oil) will not leave the system until you change the oil. Unless the oil is changed after it's added everything it scrubs out of the system will just hang out in your oil pan and keep recirculating. On another note, when you add it to your vacuum lines make sure you do it outside, if it's never been done before the car will completely disappear in the cloud of smoke that it produces.

The brake booster is just another vacuum line that you can put seafoam in. Many people use the PCV line instead. As long as it "feeds all 4 cylinders safely" as it states on the bottle then I believe that for all intents and purposes any vacuum line may be used. I've used it in my PCV line without any issues, and I know several people who prefer using the brake booster line. Doesn't seem to make much difference.

http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/ Has the following... Subaru Homebuilt Rotocraft Subaru Fuel Injection Article – December 1995 – PDF – 1.5 Mb Subaru EA-81 Engine Subaru EA-81 Parts Manual – ZIP/PDF – 4.5 Mb Subaru EA-81 Service Manual – ZIP/PDF – 3.2 Mb Subaru EA-81 Conversion Document – PDF – 1 Mb Dual Ignition Conversion – PDF – 1.2 Mb Subaru EA-82 Engine Subaru EA-82 Service Manual – Part 1 – PDF – 5.2 Mb Subaru EA-82 Service Manual – Part 2 – PDF – 4 Mb Subaru EJ-22 Engine Subaru SAE Boxer Document - PDF – 1.3 Mb Subaru EJ-22 Parts Manual – ZIP/PDF – 4.5 Mb Subaru EJ-22 Service Bulletins – ZIP/PDF – 3.5 Mb Subaru EJ-22 Service Manual – Part 1 – ZIP/PDF – 5.5 Mb Subaru EJ-22 Service Manual – Part 2 – ZIP/PDF – 3.6 Mb Subaru EJ-22 Overhaul Document – PDF – 1.5 Mb Subaru EJ-25 Engine Subaru EJ-25 Legacy1997 Service Manual Engine Only – ZIP – 28 Mb – Subaru EJ-25 Legacy1997 Service Manual Entire Car - ZIP – 48 Mb –

Awesome pics thanks! At least now I kind of know what I'm looking for under the hood:clap:

I'd love to see some pics, and from the research I've done since I started this thread It shouldn't be too terribly hard to get it working, seems like a pretty simple system. Just gotta find all the pieces

Was doing a little backresearch, I've ran into this on my ford ranger before and found this on a forum... "This system is designed to ventilate AIR, which may contain some oil vapor and the occasional splash. It is not in any liquid oil reservoir. If you have liquid oil blowing into your intake hose, I think you might have some very ************ed up piston rings or gaskets allowing excessive combustion pressure to leak into the crankcase." It was specifically referring to a case where excessive oil was found in the PCV system. Makes sense to me, although thats gotta be some intense vacuum... Thats also assuming that it would apply to a Subaru as well though lol, although i can't think of anywhere else that much oil would come from...

i only swapped on hose at a time and ran it after each mod to limit error and so i would know where i went wrong. Did you replace the hoses one at a time or just check them one at a time? I had a severely clogged vacuum system and when I checked the hoses they were apparently brittle enough to crack minutely, yet strong enough to not actually break (so I didn't notice the cracks.) ended up replacing all the hoses and running seafoam through it a couple times and no there aren't any issues. I thought it was ironic that my checking for problems caused problems lol. Not sure if that's your issue or not but that's my $0.02 worth.

Ok, spent the day at a pick and pull getting some accessories for the car, but wasn't able to find any cruise control modules. Anyone have one laying around that they'd like to part with? I do have the power mirror option, not sure if that means I need the factory or dealer option, I know that one will work and one won't lol. Alternatively I was poking around the internet and found this http://www.amazon.com/Audiovox-CCS100-Universal-Vacuum-Control/dp/B00029WQTW Universal cruise control system apparently. Any thoughts on that? Thanks again for any and all input!

Cool, yeah I've found a few threads on it, but nothing really definitive. Appreciate the input, I'll see whats available at my local pick&pull. Just wasn't sure what I'd be getting myself into :-p

Just wondering what everyone's thoughts were about adding cruise control to an '88 GL, is it worth the hassle? It's pretty much the only thing my Subi doesn't have that I'd really like it to have. Anyone have any tips or part numbers? Anything I should know?

How did it go?

Took my 1988 EA82 SPFI Wagon and did the following: New seals, new HG's, new clutch, new heater core, new radiator, new NGK plugs and wires, K&N air and oil filters, full set of new relays, new flasher, and cleaned the thing inside and out... I'll try to dig up a picture.

I also paid $200 for my EA82, gotta love a good deal It had quite a bit of hesitation, but in my case the fuel filter didn't solve the issue (although it helped substantially) I did however also have a major vacuum leak in one of my hoses. Nice looking Wagon!

Well, fired it up this morning and the noise had diminished considerably Took it for a 3 mile drive up and down the road, and things seem to be getting better. There is a strange rattling noise when I let off the accelerator, but not sure if it's an issue or not. Thank you all for the help! Now I just have to figure out what I miswired when I did the heater core, I don't have my wipers, headlights, or my power windows Think it's just a big plug somewhere that I didn't push in all the way, I was really careful about labeling both sides of everything I disconnected to ensure proper reconnection. Getting closer!

Well I'm headed back down to the shop to check it out, fortunately the shops on a mile long gravel road so I'll start out with the 'spirited drive' and see if i can't pump them bad boys up I'll let you all know how it goes!

Thank you and yes, I followed the advice on here and got OEM rings from my local subaru dealership As to how long it has been running, only about half an hour, I basically brought it up to operating temperature to check for leaks and then shut it off because the noise from the cam tower was so loud i was afraid I'd done something wrong. Figured better safe then sorry, I was planning on at least taking off the valve cover tomorrow and looking around, it shouldn't be too hard for me (at least now that I know what I'm doing) to jack the engine up a few inches to make it a little easier to get where I'm going. I was mainly worried because they did fall out and the noise only came from the drivers side, the side where they fell out. As to how many miles were on it I honestly do not know. The odometer reads at 359,000 miles but I had been pretty sure based on random observations and research here that it had been rebuilt in the past. (That guess was confirmed when I found a broken rocker arm in the bottom of my oil pan... somehow... still had all mine attached, there was just an extra snapped one in the pan.) Between work and waiting for parts (to give me time to do the research here) it has been sitting for about three weeks. It had been driven with bad headgaskets for an undetermined amount of time, Not really sure. It didn't exhibit any symptoms of a blown headgasket (no overheating, although it ran warm, no bubbles in the radiator, no white smoke, etc.) It did however have some killer milkshake in the bottom of the oil pan (no metal shavings that I could find though) Did a compression test and everything was within the same vicinity, don't remember exactly what the readings where but I do believe they were fairly low. Have yet to repeat the test, like I say it was an initial startup and the noise really worried me. Appreciate the input! EDIT: The reason for the engine pull was to replace the clutch, the reseal and HG's were just because the engine was out and I do not know how many miles are honestly on the thing.

Hello all, I have an EA82 SPFI that has just (as of this morning) been reassembled after a complete reseal and headgasket job. (and yes I did remember the two cam o-rings) When disassembling the engine I did not realize how important the lifter location could be, and when initially removing my Drivers side head they fell out. I attempted to get them in the same order, but me being me, managed to drop them a second time. I set them aside in the order that I believed to be correct, and proceeded with the headgasket repair. Today I reassembled the engine and fired it up; lo and behold there is a horrible knocking sound from the Drivers side cam case. I believe that this is because I have misplaced the lifters, as the noise was not present before I disassembled the engine. The noise is not present on the passengers side, which I took off after the Drivers side and was quite a bit more careful with the removal of the lifters I have replaced the seals in the oil pump, as I had a minor TOD before the seal job, but I checked with a stethoscope and the noise is definitley originating in the Cam Case. My questions: Is there anyway for me to determine the correct placement for my lifters on my head other then trial and error? Would I be better off replacing the lifters completely? Am I completely looking in the wrong direction? I can't think of what else the noise could be, I have scoured the forums but nothing I've found really tells me for sure so far. It should be worth noting at this point that the only experience I've had working on cars has been this job, I've owned Subaru's all my life but only now have ever dove into them. I did all the seal jobs and HG changes and even pulling the engine with the help of the fine people on this site. I just want to make sure I'm not going to break my subaru with my ignorance:confused:. Appreciate any help and advice!

lol Everyone already got their's fixed up huh? Any help is much appreciated!

Anyone done another one of these lately? Photos and links are dead.