Demon Brat

How do you suggest plugging the hole in the head?

Starting to clean everything and reading about the AIS (Air Injection System) Wondering, since we did a Weber conversion and we do not have to pass emissions in Iowa, can we lose the AIS? I think it would really clean up the motor's appearance and if the motor doesn't need it, why put it back on. I think we may keep the EGR, have hear and read positives and negatives on the EGR. Can we simple plug the four holes where the AIS screwed in, steel plug...aluminum plug...any thread sealant?

We are running a Weber. I was thinking the pipe we broke is from the EGR which I thought we would keep. However, I am beginning to think we might ditch the Air Injection System (AIS), It doesn't seem to provide too much benefit...any thoughts. How would you guys suggest plugging the four holes from the spider looking AIS? Can I buy metal plugs to screw in...maybe aluminum... should we use any thread sealant? I think it will really clean up the motor if we lose the AIS. Passing emissions is not an issue in Iowa.

Here are my son's lights. I have to remind him he can't run them on the street. Last but not least... Fun Stuff!!

So, no one has one of these laying around. I really thought I would put it back on the vehicle with the erg. I'm I right to think it will run better and get better MPG. We do not have to pass any test her in Iowa.

Ivsarge, Just curious, did your heads have the little cracks between the valve? what did you have done to your heads and what did it cost? I have those small cracks, machine shop wasn't real concerned about them. Going to pressure test them first, then surface and clean up the valves.

I believe it is called a re-circulation pipe. It connects the right side head to the intake near the carburetor. It broke while we were taking the motor apart for a partial rebuild. Does anyone have an extra sitting around they would like to sell me? Looks exactly like this...I need one that isn't broken in two... Thanks, Shawn AKA, Demon Brat

My son and I got his BRAT looking so good we decided to do the motor now. The BRAT sat for at least 10 years so all the oil seals were leaking and the clutch was getting old. With you guys motivation we decided to go all the way. Pulled the motor and going to have the heads looked at, new rings (hope that's all), reseal it, lots of degreasing and resealing the transmission. Hope it doesn't turn into too much. He is really good at taking stuff apart. BEFORE. AFTER Motor in... Motor out... Now the fun begins. taking the heads and block to the machine shop. we'll be cleaning stuff this weekend. I really enjoy these build threads so I'll try to keep it updated. Already broke one part i will need to replace. Anyone have a re-circulation pipe like this? Goes from right side head to the intake. THANKS EVERYONE...WISH US LUCK!! Shawn

Ordered a new clutch kit from Rockauto. The kit is an Exedy OEM kit with the kit number 15002. Everything I search says it is for the 1979 EA71, however they disc and pressure plate do not look the same. The disc number is FJD010U. I called Exedy and they said they do not make one for the BRAT. They do have one for the 1979 1600. They thought it would not work. The pressure plate, although it looks different appears to have the same layout and set up. However the clutch disc is what bothers me. The disc is the same diameter and everything however the part that slides onto the transmission shaft is not as long. So, what do you guys think? Will this work or should I get a clutch from somewhere else. WHERE CAN I GET A GOOD ONE? HELP!!! I need to get my son's BRAT back on the road. Shawn

Yes I do. thanks. What seals should I replace on the transmission. It seems there are all kinds of imput shaft seal, output shaft seal, extension housing seal...all kinds. What is recommended?

OK, the motor is out. Wasn't too bad, except that driver's side lower nut...Pain in the a**. Total redneck motor pull. We used a pulley system for hanging deer. I knew the motor weighed less than our big Iowa bucks, worked great. Lifted the motor up and rolled the truck out of the way. Now that the motor is out, it is time to clean things up and replace everything I can. transmission seals, both axles, front input seal, rear output shaft seal. Thinking of taking the transmission out to clean it up, can this be done without a lift? Motor, rear seal, head gaskets, clutch kit, valve covers, oil pan and anything else we can think of. Any advise?

Sounds good, we better get after it. Does anyone have a recommendation on the best gasket set, head gaskets and clutch kit? How about the heads, what do you guys recommend when we pull them? Is a trip to the machine shop in my future?

My son and I fixed up a 1979 Brat EA71, four speed dual range. Looks great inside and out...however it is a leaking fool. We know this BRAT sat for at least 7 years before we bought it. Who knows how long it say before that. We fixed her up, changed all the fluids and hit the road. Now the trans is leaking and the rear main is leaking. I noticed last week the oil was milky and foamy (head gasket maybe). I told my wife this was a father son project for him to learn some stuff, which he has. I'm fairy handy and would also have some resources if needed. Someone tell me we can pull the motor, replace the seals and head gaskets. Thought we should replace seals in the transmission while we at it. Might as well put a new clutch in also since we're there. The leaking oil is coming out right in the back of the oil pan, but I'm pretty sure it is not the oil pan. It also leaks much faster when the truck in running, like the crankcase is building up pressure and forcing the oil out the rear seal. Could this be a sign of a blown head gasket? I have replaced the PVC valve. We put a weber on it with the valve cover hoses coming together in a T and then going to the intake and air cleaner. Those hoses all appear milky and foamy also. Here is another clue. I can see no antifreeze leaking or on the garage floor, however it is going somewhere and even after the truck sits for several days, when I open the radiator it sucks air in, like the radiator has negative pressure. I'm looking for someone to say "GO FOR IT, buy these parts and get after it." Any advise on gasket kits, seals or clutch? I've got a Chilton book and a How to keep your Subaru alive book. Thanks, Shawn

Here it is with all it lights on.

Thanks, sounds like a nice Saturday morning project for the boy and me. When we rebuilt it, I mounted a nice fused power supply block to the firewall to run his AMP and four spotlights. There are 5 more open circuits I can use. I wondered if that factory fuse block configuration just wasn't heavy duty enough. We were pretty diligent about cleaning every connector and wire when we put it all back together, but we will check again. I figured this wasn't the first BRAT with a melted fuse block....once again thanks. Demon Brat

After we reassembled my son's 1979 Subaru Brat he blew a fuse on his headlights. This is the 25 amp fuse on the very bottom of the fuse block. We replaced it thinking the fuse just went bad, This weekend while I was in his car I noticed a pile of blown fuses on the drivers floor so I asked him if he was still blowing fuses and he said "yeah, a couple times" So I started trying to problem solve it. I cleaned everything up and made sure the fuse had, what appeared to be, good contact. When I turned the lights on they worked fine but negative side (left side as you face it) got hotter than hell. It would get hot enough you did not want to touch it. The plastic fuse block has also been burnt in the past because it was all melted. I pulled both wires off the back of the block, replaced the female ends and connected them directly to a new blade style fuse and bypassed the fuse block all together. I still have a fuse in it, I just connected the female ends right onto the blades of the newer style fuse. It seems to be working better. The fuse still gets "warm". you can hold it and it is not uncomfortable but you can tell it has heated up a little. I know there is a ground near the battery for the lights and it is clean and tight. ANY IDEAS OR HELPFUL TIPS? Thanks, Demon Brat

Need some information, I have ordered outer tie rod ends from Rockauto and from another source. They all say they are for a 1979 Subaru Brat. However, when we install them they tighten down so far that the rubber boot collapses and gets crushed as they are tightened. After a short period the rubber boot tears and fails. One of the original outer tie rod ends is obviously longer where it mounts into the hole. Is there a part number or a source where I know I'm going to get the correct tie rod end. One that is longer and mounts correctly with the proper distance. Thanks, Demon Brat

My son and I replaced both Strut Mounts, sway bar bushings and control strut rod bushings. By replacing the strut mounts, he gained 1.5 inches of lift in the front I guess the old ones were worn out. Plus, this thing rides like a new car now. No noises up front, no bumps, thumps, squeaks, shimmy. Well whole the effort.

i was thinking around $40 shipped if it is in good shape. We'll probably scuff it up and paint it. shipped to 52353

Anyone have a skid plate that will fit under a 1979 Subaru BRAT? Saw one on ebay but really did not want to spend $90 on one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-SUBARU-BRAT-UNDER-COVER-PANEL-OR-SKIDPLATE-FITS-1977-STAGE-2-1979-/321103485395?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac34259d3&vxp=mtr Looks like this one. Thanks,

got it...Thanks

Funny, My son's is installed on the bar in the basement right now. Maybe someone can give me a measurement, just planning on getting it close, that's all.

Anyone know exactly where the SUBARU emblem goes on the front of a 1979 BRAT? How many inches up and how many inches to the left of the driver's side edge of the hood?

Anyone know where the SUBARU emblem on the hood goes? How many inches up from the front of the hood and how many inches in from the driver's side of the hood?

It has been 1 year and 11 months since we bought it. My son is 16 now and he drove it to football tonight, then to his girlfriend's house. I want to give everyone a huge thank you for your parts and knowledge. Seriously, we mounted the roll bar and I barely got two pictures taken before he hit the streets. We have a little trim left to install, and then just odds and ends but it is on the street and looking good. This weekend we will try and take more pictures of the interior, engine, and bed. Again, thank you everyone.