rrgrr

There's a few in here- http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280067039

Try this one, scroll down to it: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280067039

^All those goodies are stock?! That has to be the biggest option package!

Changed d-side inner front wheel bearing & seal, it was making noises/vibrations at certain speeds. All better, almost drives like a new car now- it Should I've replaced 95% of the front end Used a steel sealed type from Fastenal. The leaky windshield is out and will be replaced Friday after I clean up the mess and rust caused by water running around it. I'm por-15ing it today. The previous glass guy should be beaten, it was pretty gommed up. This windshield is Really expensive around here, and the seal is no bargain either. I will be glad when rain doesn't drip on my gearshift anymore.

Isn't the off button supposed to override the fan switch? or is that resistor pack related? All the buttons are doing something I'm Just not sure what.

Getting around to this heater situation again, after running new ground to the relay, and was unable to get to the resistor yet due to a rusty screw in the housing, I can live with only fan position 3&4. I am trying to figure out why my buttons are all mixed up. The Defrost seems okay. When I press Heat, I get the front BiLevel blowing, but not very warm. When I press BiLevel, the heat comes out on my feet. A/C, max gives good heat out front, So does Off position -seems like that used to kill the fan, but not anymore. Maybe something to do with the resistor? Also, when it is in A/C it seems like cold air is coming in thru the defroster vents somehow. I started to take the dash apart, It didn't look molested, and I was going to switch the hoses around, but decided to do more research. The cable controlling the temp appears to be doing it's thing. There is a little hose 'manifold' down by the heater box, only has 2 connections made. Can someone help me make sense of this? (85 GL wagon)

Nice work! Those projectors really make your car's face! Kind of makes me want to see some goofy teeth in the valance, the bar gives it a fu manchu!

Spent most of the day yesterday in a fab shop where I had the local metal artists build a bumper/brush guard I designed. I think they did a real nice job -wasn't near as simple a job as I thought due to the frame angles, motor in the way. It was supposed to sit a little higher, but it got complicated when I insisted it be bolted on, not welded. Also received in the mail some Weber stickers from the UK. Not a big fan of stickers/advertising, but want to show this car is a little more than a beater w/a heater. And I love my Weber

I was hopeful, but the Altroms came in and they weren't anything special, in fact they sent me two different gaskets with the same part #. One is the gray stuff and one is beige about the same thickness, but no metal. I have to cut a big unnecessary tab out of the middle of the intake hole -sloppy parts manufacturing I could have cut them myself. If anyone can confirm what Mike Scarff is getting, I will try that. Don't want to keep doing this job.

Waiting for a weather window to go to paint, doing misc. prep...Got a nice cheap basket for the spare & installed some old school yellow KC fogs I had. Custom brush guard in the works...Meanwhile, the intake gasket has started to leak, the oil pan gasket is self destructing,& the steering rack bushing won't stay put. Still trying to figure out if I can make cruise control work. If anyone has a source for the good intake gaskets (metallic?), please help me out.

Hunting for this for the 85 wagon -the thing looks okay but keeps sliding out of the bracket. Rock auto only shows them for 4 headlight hatch; amazon shows Rare Parts RP16542 -OOS. Anyone got a source for this?

I put a sealed bearing in my friend's 86 front inner and it seems to be working well. The seal had a lip I had to cut off to make it seat flush. I packed grease in the seal and what I could get between the seal and bearing.

15 secs with the new Weber, stock size exhaust, open cat.(I think it could push more air)

Did a few brutal 'highway holeshots' -then I apologized to the old girl...I am building this thing for distance, not speed. They way I drive normally is abuse enough, -Not going to beat on her unnecessarily. (~17.7sec 1/4mi. @~77mph -terrible shifting)

Didn't change -Mains are 140, Primary idle .060, secondary idle .050, Air corrector primary 170, secondary idle 160 -seems pretty good. Jeszek -I read where you made the a/c idle control work, but the angle is not happening. Got a pic of that? Is this worth messing with or should I get rid of it?

My first real attempt at bodywork, making a smooth hood. Took about 5 days keeping the garage/materials workable w/small salamander, (cough). Painted roof rails, too. Strut rod bushings, + a washer each side, a bit of pounding on the front flaps & fenders got the little bit of clearance I needed. Tweaked the alignment -running good and straight now. Weber swap went awesome -except the JBweld did not want to set up on the cold intake. Using the Transdapt -looks great! Someday warm I'll get the edges all smoothed out. Fortunately had a 'Y" fuel fitting from an old carb. Found the perfect little linkage piece in my scrap pile, too! Went for a test drive and immediately a guy in an older legacy wagon pulled up -said he'd never seen a 4wd before! So I tried to run him and ended up dumping it from 2nd into 5th kept up! -But it's been a Long time since I've gotten a ticket, so I backed off...

The picture I'm getting of this song blasting out of the suby begging for mercy climbing past 70 for like 2 minutes is epic!

IIRC, Haggerty has restrictions on mileage, where and when you can drive, Grundy is more flexible. Most say you need to be locked in a garage, but they're not coming over to see. Odometers are hard to verify in classics, too. Very cheap great coverage, never had to claim, but they have a great reputation. Agreed value is what you say it is, and is the basis of your rate. The theory is that classic owners are more careful drivers -they may not buy that for subaru owners!

Cleaning up the intake, trying to figure out if it is possible to remove the hard lines going under the intake without removing the intake itself. there's a bracket on the front p-side, maybe one near the disty holding it, are there any underneath? Can this be done? I don't really care if I have to mangle them to get them out (unless someone wants that stuff...)

Too Wintery to give up my snowmobile now, decided to go ahead with the Weber swap -the Hitachi just doesn't want to behave & I'm tired of messing with it (finally) Soooo Worth it, idling purrrfectly right away no more blipping the throttle trying to get it down! Pretty too! -never had a new carb before, but figured She's been thru So much lately, needs some Fresh & some flash... And other things, too ...

Probly everything I need, so far away...(sigh)

I think you'll need to use the disty from the carb motor, with the vac advance, as well.

I'm going to get out my old G-tech and do some pulls to see what it says before and after tuning, then I'll swap the weber in and see what's what. Stay tuned... *EDIT could not get the Hitachi to be very consistent, - will post weber result soon...

I would like to see that pic, having similar issues, weber is standing by waiting for me to give up...

Looks a little random there around your fuel filter . Try plumbing it like this: The weber in this pic is reversed, but you can see all the parts. The fuel 'y' fitting is on the d-side, hooked up to the carb on the opposite side. The other side of it goes to the top of the fuel filter. The only thing not visible here is the end of the tank vent line -it is the one sitting on the brake mc and the open end is just tucked in there. Hope this helps.