rrgrr

This circuit board turd? Okay, Sorry -I guess nothing about that says 'relay' to me. Takes like 14 wire harness...I guess my warranty is void now. Thanks for clarifying that!

Never did find that relay...it's working though. Decided to backtrack and found the fuel getting to the carb, but took the carb apart to find the acc pump split and the bowl empty. Guess I was mistaken about the way it works based on others. Going to rebuid Hitchy again & double check float, do o-rings & try again. All these hoses are just making me want a Weber... Thanks guys.

Thanks for the reply- checked all the fusibles, fuses, the pump is okay -it pumps when cranking. Went ahead and replaced it. When I turn the key on my other sub it runs for a sec or two -same with my friends 86 -so I was expecting to hear it. There is no 6 pin relay anywhere in there, just that 4" black box w/the ~12 wire harness going into it. I've searched all over under there. Next I guess I'll blow air thru the gas line from the carb feed and see if it's clogged. If I pump and crank I can make it run but it's starving and spitting, doesn't seem like the acc pump has enough to squirt. Really hung up on this

Please -this thing has got me parked. Can't seem to find any fuel pump relay or 6-pin relay anywhere. Does something in the ecu send voltage to it? No power going to fp when key is turned. Not excited about chasing the wire from the fuel pump thru the dash. Not crazy about hot wiring the pump, either. I'd like to get it right. Any help is greatly appreciated

I am looking at 4 relays all have 4 wires -none of these? Does it look different? (borrowed pic) I can't seem to find ant other relays up in there -I am upside down with the guts out of this thing

My Hitachi'd ea82 is not making the fuel pump run when I turn the key. Started after I rebuilt the carb, I thought just needed a good prime, and I can make it start and run if I crank & pump enough to make it siphon, it runs, spitting gas. Then I realized the fuel pump wasn't whirring. So I checked all the connections, don't seem to have power to the pump -but was unsure about how the relay works, so I went ahead and swapped in a fuel pump -(but did not plumb it yet) turn the key -still nothing. Pulled out the two 4-wire relays above the fuse box (is one of these fp?) and swapped them, but they both click. Still no pump. Is there some other sensor to tell the fuel pump to go? What am i missing?

Loving this Build!! Great Innovation!

I've not done this, maybe I should -Do you just leave them loose or do you clamp them higher up for more flex?

...When the guy's insurance estimator showed up I gave him the rant/tour about how much work I'd done, the pile of receipts I could send, rarity of this model/condition in this area, blah, blah,..He took some pics and said rarely did he see a car this old he could mark "Good" and was impressed. He also liked the convertible... Anyway, less than 2 hours later He calls and says it's a wash -they can't fix it for what it's worth. They valued the car $2,675!! I keep the car and walk away with $2500. -one week after the wreck and I was paid! Way better than expected! Went back to the jy (car where I got the rear door I've been prepping) and got the drivers door, an '86, -so the mirror style(which I prefer) and trim on that side will be different. The tire shop gave me a Free New tire w/the road hazard warranty and the wheel is not bent, so good there...I think the ride is okay. Think I'm gonna try to find someone to give her a decent paint job -cheaply, of course -if I can do some prep...now I have a Blue drivers door and the one for behind it poorly matched & painted brown, both in the garage. Need to take the carb apart again, it's spitting gas at idle...had to work over the choke housing to get that open, re-bent the spring -been trying to get it dialed in... Winter is coming on fast and I need to get this ready! -No more Trouble, -Please!

Well bad luck prevails for this poor machine...Got hit last night by a Volvo SUV -tried to turn left into me as I went thru an intersection...got both doors on the drivers side, a ding in the rocker, curbed it on the front right, gauged the tire, don't know about the rim or the suspension parts, got both doors shut, tire held air so I drove it ~60 miles home. The alignment is jacked but it didn't feel too dangerous... The other driver is taking full responsibility, cop on the scene agreed. Waiting for the insurance to come total my car for whatever...$100. they probably won't see any value in it. Certainly will be more in repairs than the car is valued at. I have a pretty good stack of receipts, but the labor and other expenses don't show...blue book on these is crap. If anyone can advise me on how to get $$ for this thing out of the insurance company, Please Help. I am keeping this car and getting it fixed despite the universe being seemingly against it.

I'm gonna go for the MPG's for now if it gets sorted...I do love my Weber'd EA81 & it satisfies my carbyness...But I also have almost all the spfi stuff, so that's a thought... Then again if I can pick up an ej22 for less than a new weber,(read somewhere) -I'm thinking maybe I'll just go snag one of those and have it ready - But For Now: -I Drive!

Swapped engines after the catastrophe. I am now running the epic "Art of Subaru Maintenance " motor featured in YT vids, Big thanks to Venerable forum members for making this happen. Never done an engine swap before, it went together pretty easy. I was underneath for the line up when my buddy eased it down and it landed So perfectly, -(I was anticipating wrestling of the exhaust, mounts,...)-I actually got a little misty from the great stress relief -like having a family member in surgery! Did I use the videos to guide me? Heck yes! BTW no leaks, the motor is great I'm using the Hitachi setup for now, but idle won't stay put -something is off. Looking into that dieseling solenoid today, hunting for vacuum leaks... Also cleaned up the engine bay, painted wiper arms, various under hood things. The Plasti-dip looks good on the wheels and holds up well so far. Looks like crap on the hood tho. Large areas are not easy to do with rattle cans. Painted the hubs black too. Here's a pic:

Check these -this is an EA81 but the pcv system is so simple...my carb is reversed in direction to accomodate the acc cable, so ideally the airbox fitting would be on the back side. The EA82 has a 'T' connector, where the 81 has that 'F' thingy. Just route the side going to the stock assembly to the Weber box base, add a brass hose fitting, and you're done. I'm thinking mine is 3/8". I've not needed an oil catch, not sure why one is needed on others'. Seems like there would be quite a bit of pressure to blow oil enough to be a problem. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Try one of those black binder clips around where the clamp is -find the right size/place and put it on, then pull the "legs" off of it. You'll never notice it. Haven't tried this on a subaru,(I'm about to) but it has worked on others. If it doesn't work, well, you're out .05 cents!

I Love This Thread! AdventureSubaru -you are livin' the dream! Need to get some Real adventures going in mine...

Nice rescue, Mikaleda! Drive that thing! It's always nice to find a thread like this one when I think I've got problems...cars like that don't get a second chance around here, or a second thought about crushing them. Keep up the good work!

Very Nice! -And that bumper/brush guard is Art! - Magnificent!

Here's my little axle adventure: Replaced my slightly noisy pass. side axle a month or so ago with a reman from O'reilly's while installing my 2" lift. The other side came apart when I got the lift together there. Went and got another reman, this time from AutoZone, -(O'r's was going to take a few days, and I wanted it back on the road). The p-side was clicky from when I put it in. When I went back to O'r's, they swapped me for a New Duralast Gold -(looks totally different) -and took the reman core for warranty reasons. That DLG axle was Real clicky, but I figured I have lifetime warranteed axles at both places, so I would run it 'til it made me mad enough to change it -Again. (Later, AZ kept calling saying they had an axle I ordered & paid for, but never picked up...okay...so I went and got my spare -a reman, too!) Got on the highway a few days later and the DLG inner boot split, throwing grease everywhere and freaking me out with the smoke from grease on the exhaust. So I swapped in the reman axle from AZ and it is good. Now Neither place is selling reman axles, and have changed the part #(60-7008) to that of a new axle w/no core required. The new number gets you the DLG axles, beware. We put one in my friends '86 and it seems fine. I think the QC lacks on these, it's a crap shoot. Looking at Rock Auto, it appears remans are being phased out and a couple of new styles are offered -not all look like the new DLGs -some have a more OEM appearance from their pix. Still haven't decided who to return the DLG to, but I'd rather have a reman if I can get one. Anyhoo, hth

The wagon is back rolling thanks to forum members xbeerd and MilesFox!! Finished the swap yesterday and the motor started right up. Exhaust gaskets were still good and cleaned up intake gaskets were good to go too. Great running motor! Had to swap in original (carb) disty & guess initial timing...has good oil pressure and runs cool.

So the hammering would be bent rod against cylinder wall? Sounds like a good theory based on what is known. Took almost a full gallon to get coolant topped off, so the cylinders certainly got a bath if not filled. It still seems to be getting coolant from somewhere, so there could be a crack or HG or both. This motor is about to become bench meat, -I'll probably tear it down over the winter. I will report back my findings for anyone curious and to give this thread completion.

Sprayed plugs with starter fluid. Ran it for a while, shut it off started it again -took a few but the smoke started again, drove it around the block -got really smoky...still hammering/tapping pretty bad.

Well I put the new gaskets in, changed thermostat while I was there. Has a nasty Tick or hammering sound still coming from p-side. Still burning coolant. Especially at low RPMs. Was rocking pretty hard on first start, cleaned up the disty cap & it smoothed out. Don't know if that was an issue or it was just getting oil back in it. Other than that it's running fine...

Yep, Here's how NOT to do intake gaskets -I think the goo is all that's left. With any luck I'll be back running this afternoon. I am betting this is the extent of it. Never had this issue in all my Suby years. Maybe I freaked out a little, but better safe... Thanks to the Forum for all the help!!!

Okay it is possible in my haste to get the thing shut down, that I overreacted a bit. Certainly did not go around back and sniff while I was focused on the motor rocking and running like hell. I think if intake gasket failure is the best case scenario, I'll take it. I've just never seen an engine act so violently, so I figured the worst. Picked a couple hunks of rotten gasket/goo from the edges of the mani. Does not boost confidence in the reseal job by whoever did that. I think I'm going to put some fel-pros in there and see what happens. The motor seems to turn fine with the starter.

Turned the motor over by hand and seemed okay just a little snug in one quarter revolution, I think normal. No weird sounds, so I did dry compression checks w/out throttle, ~150 on all cyls, -that seems good. Motor sounded fine when the starter spun it. I expected a collision. The intake gasket I can see looks terrible. The intake gaskets on the EA81 were metal -should I look for something like that to replace them?