rrgrr

Do the intake gaskets fail in the middle allowing coolant into the intake?

Drained the oil -not enough coolant in there to notice.

Pulled the plugs -1&3 look good 2 and 4 had antifreeze on them and 4 with nasty threads.Just put these in a month ago. A compression check seems like a messy job now. Haven't drained the oil thinking I might have to make one last go to get it in the garage.

Okay tomorrow I'll check out the plugs and see if I can get the timing covers off, maybe run a comp check. My back is killin me today, so I didn't get much done. I'd hate to write off this motor if it's not lost. Xbeerd I'm in Bloomington, IN.

No, it appears to be all intact.

I can feel good belt thru the top hole, there's no leaking anywhere, can't see anything wrong with the block. No water in the oil or otherwise. Don't have a power steering pump either. Can't really think of why all the white smoke unless a passage broke, and the hammering,...a broken valve? I'm scared to start it again.

The New noisy axle I put in decided to split it's inner boot on the highway puking grease everywhere on the exhaust, making a bunch of smoke and freaking me out. Next morning put another axle in (reman) Also got tie rod ends in from Rock Auto and went ahead and put those in and did a quickie tape measure alignment in the driveway before rushing off to work. Everything feels good and solid up front now, straight and quiet, the torque steer problem seems pretty much gone, too. Guess you can't always tell when the tie rods are sloppy by hand. 100 miles of excellent performance later, I think the motor decided to go suicidal...I am just wrecked over this -we were having so much fun! All the work I've done and that last drive really cemented my love for this car... This is not over...

Tell me more -what kind of shape is it in? I have a truck and some free time, also friends who go there regularly.

I don't really know the extent or the reason of the rebuild, but I guess it is what it is now. I will do whatever to get this thing going again. May have to take a low offer on the convertible to fund it and get the garage empty...it's tempting, but I can't see stealing it's engine unless someone really wanted the rest of it to build something cool. Miles -I'm very interested in whatever options I have, even spfi (I'm kind of a carb nut) I was even thinking it might be time to think about the j22 swap if I could find one cheap.

I think my motor threw a rod or something catastrophic. I was driving and everything seemed pretty normal, the ride was the best yet -my Matilda and I were really bonding. Then when I slowed and turned the engine started running really rough all of a sudden like bad gas or a clogged fuel filter. All the gauges were okay -temp in the middle, oil at ~30psi. I thought I'd shut it down and see if giving it a few minutes might help -if there was debris trying to clog the fuel filter, maybe it would clear. Checked the oil, and it looked good. When I restarted it white smoke barreled out the tailpipe and the motor was rocking like it was only firing on the d-side or like a motor mount was free, with a hammering sound coming from the dead side regular with the engine speed. That was Friday, the last time my motor ran. Finally got her home on a dolly last night. The oil looks great, no trace of water, no apparent oil in the rad, nothing leaking anywhere outside. I tried to remove the timing belt cover on the p-side to see if it was still there but 2 of 3 screws wouldn't back out. I removed one and pryed the cover back and could see belt on top, but can't tell how tight it is. I am totally heartbroken at this point, having done all this work lately, and it was running/driving awesome. Now I might be looking for a replacement motor. Please if anyone can help figure this out, The PO said the motor was rebuilt ~50K ago, and it has obviously been resealed. The timing belts had ~25,000 miles on them according to him. It's an '85 EA82, Hitachi carb 5sp D/R with 225K on the clock. The plan was to drive this thing to my grave...

Please let me know how that goes!

Still haven't tried it. I've been looking at the FSM page, but haven't been brave enough to take it apart. Can't really see the "way-outness" that the numbers read with my eye. Putting a few hundred miles on it as is and will try to read tire wear. Very doubtful I could correct it by eye or tape measure -considered trying it and taking it back to the rack to see if it improves... If I can find someone who has seen one of these in the last decade...

Thanks for the pic, lostbrat!-it helps me understand the suspension to see it like that.

Thanks, found em under 'strut rod bushings'... I am a little nervous about trying to correct the rear by loosening those plate bolts to the torsion bar -I mean I don't see how that will change the Toe -it doesn't seem like there's any lateral gain there without shimming it or something. Can someone please advise me on this?

225K on the 85 GL Wagon -PO said EA82 was rebuilt @ ~205K and I'm just getting started.

Does anyone have a source for radius arm bushings and sway bar bushings? Those are shot and am searching or considering modifying whatever I can make work. The rear will wear out the tires if left as is.

I'm Plastidipping the wheels tonight and tomorrow with primer underneath -report to come. Actually, if this works out, I''m considering doing the hood and top -it's cheaper than paint and seems like it will keep the salt & rust away indefinitely and look better than primer or as good as flat black. I searched for Plastidip on the forums thinking this would be very popular around here, but results were few. Anyone tried this stuff? Also had a good clock from the JY, but fried it on the install Found a good Subaru radio, too and spent a day deciphering the harness splice the PO did -but the presets won't keep and the light is dim, Grrrr. Searching for threads or tips on EA82 radio hoookups/wiring keys...hint hint

Went to the alignment shop -a trusted local, and he hadn't seen an old suby for a while but said he couldn't -or wouldn't change it. However the rear toe out is a little extreme. He told me to correct it I would loosen the 3 bolts on the plate that connects the torsion bar & see where it settles -and good luck with it! I've just done CV's and lower ball joints, lifted it 2", and put 15" wheels w/~26" tires on. Does anyone know how to correct this? Here are the numbers: LF Camber 1.2; 0.3 Caster; -0.02 Toe RF Camber 1.1; 0.2 Caster; -0.9 Toe LR Camber 0.8; -0.50 Toe RR Camber 1.1; -0.66 Toe I can live with the front, but I am getting a lot of torque steer -to the right when I accelerate, and it sort of swings back when I let off. Seems like one side is pulling harder than the other. It drives and rolls good and straight, but the steering wheel is kind of jerky doing that when I gas it. Any suggestions?

Our local parts stores are no longer finding 60-7008 rebuilt axles -O'reilley's, Autozone show them on the website but they are changing part numbers, and new mfg ones are what they are offering. They don't take cores, either. The one recently picked up from O'R's -(who keeps trying to give us 60-7009's w/25 splines ) -looks much different with the smooth -non knurled inner housing, black shaft, and the outer boot coming up all the way to where the two rings are on the shaft. The jury is still out on the quality of these. Rock Auto is showing a limited number of remans available as well. What's the story here?

I have noticed just a touch of rubbing w/wheels cranked in reverse, it's on the front edge front wheel well -seems like the axle is coming forward a bit, esp downhill reversing. I am hunting for threads & tips on a slight fender rolling technique up there, if anyone has 'em handy. Just need to gain about an inch Neatly TIA

I use this little guy only mine is 3/8 drive -just as powerful as a 1/2 inch but much smaller, lighter. Lugs are no problem. Always retorque by hand. This thing has been a real life saver and I just have a tiny 4 gal. compressor. http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-professional-1-2-in-impact-wrench/p-00919905000P?prdNo=9&blockNo=9&blockType=G9

I wish my car would hover -might get better mileage!

I got one axle from O'reilly's (d-side) which seems fine and my old Suby mechanic said they get good axles from there -I think they are EMPI made. When I went to get the other, they couldn't find one right away, so I went to Autozone to get back on the road. That axle is making all kinds of noise -it's crap. Both have lifetime warranty, but I don't want another from A.Z., so I am debating taking it "back" to O.R.'s and getting the better kind, but wonder if I can get away with that without raising suspicion. Anyway, I think you get my point about where the better quality is. Autozone has really gone downhill for service and quality since O.R's came to town. Make sure you don't get GL10 axles unless that's what you have -they are 25 spline and wrong diameter. Standard axles have 23 spline inners.

I am also pretty green on this, hoping to see if alignment will correct the slight camber issue I have when I get it done next week. Didn't drop the crossmember, either and won't if I don't have to. I ran my stock wheels while I looked for wheels, and the outer front treads were worn out in a couple weeks. Tire proportions mean everything in terms of rubbing -what size are yours?

Wow , that's a good lookin' bunch of welding -if you did that, you are an artist! That basket is the shiz, too!