rrgrr

Found this, don't think I've seen any cars on the forum with them- http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2011/12/junkyard-find-1987-subaru-gl-wagon/ ...thought I'd add it to this thread...

175eya, that Is an Excellent post on the jeep forum! I will work thru those steps today. It is getting hard to find guys that know more about carbs than the basics. The pics of the linkage back there are key. The "with your third hand..." caption, -I have seen that somewhere! Actually I recommend to anyone w/a weber saving that page, like others have said redline's documentation sucks. There is a weber book out there, just don't have it (yet). Tom, I could not make the linkage get full travel with the Hitchi linkage piece, -the pedal would hit the floor first-ended up cutting the cable end off, using the weber 'swiss cheese' piece on a hole closer to center-What a difference!

I'm having a problem with the choke on my weber, can't seem to sort it -it won't catch and hold, and the way the linkage is behind the housing, I can't see what is going wrong. If I pull off the air filter top I can hold it and make it catch and stay, but it won't 'hook up' by pressing the pedal. I've tweaked the screw this way and that, and made adjustments to the spring, but nothing is working. Done the setup as described by redline guide but it is a vague description, doesn't really detail what is supposed to be happening mechanically. It's a 32/36 electric choke. Don't really want to convert it to manual choke -it's new and it should work as designed. Never had issues with my old weber on the last car, and I consider myself pretty good with carbs generally, have lined out many different kinds. Anyone help me out here before it gets cold and I need it?

That looks like a brat with a cap that goes over the cab to me.

There is One guy on here who says it works and is running it, and the rest of the scientists saying 'no way'...Sumoco, could you Please substantiate your claims with a proper write-up including pics, and set the record straight? Just sayin' -who doesn't want 40 mpg?

+1 Thanks, Tom! Same problem I was hunting, same solution!

Here's another wrong way of getting that cover off -I threaded a long bolt same size as the ones holding the fan on -all the way thru one of those holes that hold the fan, then turned the crank round, using the bolt to destroy the cover. I did this when the cover bolts would not come out. hth

Neither. That is the beauty of the ea81. The cam and crank are gear linked.

I just replaced my resistor (finally) -it would only work on 3 & 4, which is weird- turned out to be a wad of insulation on it, like a nesting critter shorted it out.

Just curious, do you have any good pics of that rochester setup?

Broke down and got the replacement headlamp switch from r.a.,which restored my dash lights. Except the parking lights w/key off position does not do anythingi. Still not sure what is going on there, or if the new switch is correct with that position. I kind of like that feature, but I Need dash lights, so it stays.

+1 on the Weber swap, the Hitachi is more trouble than it's worth. Find a gen 3 ea82 intake manifold, then search the excellent weber swap threads here. You likely won't even need your neighbor's help. I was unable to source the cw acc pump, but it may be out there.

Months and many miles ago I did my weber swap, have been thinking it was not as peppy as it should be. Finally got someone to work the pedal while I watched the action, (mainly because my choke is being weird)...what I discovered was, I was hardly getting the secondary to open at all at full throttle. To get the whole carb working I had to change the whole linkage setup from the cable mount to the carb linkage- could not use the Hitachi hardware -replaced that with a cable clamp and some other bits, added a spring, and What a Difference! Can'really feel now where the second barrel kicks in now, by sound, too. Hope I can keep my foot out of it and get similar mpgs to what I've been getting! It's as if I added a gear-won't be struggling so much to hold speed on hills, or pass when necessary anymore.

Good lookin' brown wagon! Ours were very similar when built. You must be having good luck with the Hitachi! How is it you have a body color rear bumper? Is that from another donor car?

MyKeys, thanks for the tip! I think the loop was occurring thru the radio amp somehow, -the switchplug made the radio slightly quieter left plugged in w/ no input. I tried adding a direct ground to the charger before, and some weird things were happening -and it was still noisy. The radio is good and quiet itself, so I guess the resistor is good, etc.

Here's the "header" I had made after my cat gave it up: 2" to stock style muffler. It pops a little bit from the back if I'm slowing in too high a gear, but not bad. It's getting varnished Changed the oil pan gasket to try and clean it up... And there's this... Check out my build thread for the deets! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140492-back-on-the-wagon/page-3#entry1250047

This one is green -it really looks funny trying to be stock against the rest of my amber-lit dash. Please check out my parts wanted thread:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148940-amber-alert/

Now for some fun stuff! Been messing with this radio dilemma for awhile...cassette adapters, transmitters, wires everywhere, noise... Check this out This cheapie 7" tablet fits perfectly between the dash and shifter box, seated against the cubby. It easily slides in/out from either side and needs no adhesive. Has micro sd to hold plenty of music, maps, and I can stop a wifi spots when I need online! After so much screwing around, I was going to do the Mighty Car Mods tablet install and call it a day, but it needed an amp, and sacrificed local radio, which is useful at times. But I came up with something that keeps the stock look and does it all. Searching around the forum, I found some ideas. First, I hacked the stock radio harness that connects the radio to the tape deck and wired in this switching plug to receive signal from an aux source: If I tune to 'quiet' frequency and turn the device voulme up, there is no significant noise. Worked well enough, but if I tried to charge it while the motor was running, it was crazy noisy... I finally found this little ground loop eliminator and it did the trick! Here you can see I've glued the switchplug to the side of the radio, and everything stuffs into the space beside the radio. I am going to put a usb charging plug in there, too. Both wires route neatly between the dash sections. Also,my door speaker were crapped out so I tapped into the b pillar connection and put in these ancient Pioneer triax car boxes I've had forever - sounds pretty awesome!

This is Way better than a new car to me! Trying to get some leaks stopped, did the oil pan gasket, everything looked pretty good to me under there -correct me if you see something I don't -(besides the obvious undercoating) I think vc's are next, still a little drippy. I am actually kind of torn on fixing all that underspray which the LBC community refers to as "rust inhibitor" Also saw a little rust on the front subframe rails, so I POR-15'd the heck out of 'em...

Hope it stays "in the family" and doesn't get too worked over

and we duct taped the roof back on the parts car to have some where to store the old engine. You have the world's first 'convertible brat-wagon' !...if only...:-)

Thanks, MR_Loyale! That is Awesome!

I like your mudflap extensions -how'd you do that? The digi-camo is cool and unique, too!

No need to knock the end out -just turn your wheels, loosen the lock nut and find the flats where you can put a wrench on the tie rod. The wheel on the ground will hold eveything. Make your adjustment, tighten lock nut. You'll have to drive/roll it to get it sitting straight, rinse and repeat. The string or a tape measure front side of tires vs rear side helps find where to start. Try to adjust only one wheel at a time to keep it simple. I have been adjusting mine roadside trying to dial that last little pull out as I go down the highway. Hope this helps