rrgrr

I don't understand the OZ tax, exchange rate, or octane info, or any of that to make a relevant conversion.

Sounds like a tooth off, or 180 +or- a tooth now. I think you could rotate the motor with your finger over the #1 plug hole to feel compression, or put a chopstick or something in there to confirm top of the stroke. I did a similar swap from an 85 n/a to a newer spfi motor, kept the old intake and disty -must have got lucky, but the last thing I did was switch distys, eyeballing the old one into the same position. hth

Thanks, guys. It was part of the strut, that was replaced, what I was looking for. I only see one plug under the back seat, that is access to the fuel line. If I could, I'd lower that to level it. Guess I'll live with it. Don't really care to get into spring swapping and such unless necessary. The front wheels sit nice and straight, and seem to be wearing evenly.

Recent developments: I have intermittent cruise control, and a/c is operable - I think it needs a relay, will run sometimes even when off. Wipe New worked really well on the bumpers, some of the dash, window sills, side trim. A little does not go as far as they say & $$. Still cleaning off my primer overspray everywhere. Been racking up lots of miles w/out-of-town work -and loving it. Jacked with the jy stock radio, trying to make a useable aux player out of the tape deck, still too noisy. Cannibalized 2 radios, 2 tape decks in the process. Now the buttons are wonky about half the time, and r side speakers are cutting out. Waste of time. Think I'll go ahead and find a mech-less unit when funds permit. It's green anyway, looks dumb against the amber dash lights. Lost the p-side timing belt, and swapped one from the old motor to get it home. Ordered this PCI kit, and changed all included parts. Had to pull the alternator to get a look at the d-side sprocket. Much screwing around with the p-side, due to the belt wanting to run off the sprocket there. Ended up using that side's tensioner from the old motor,(main suspect -the new one looks a bit untrue) -which at least got the belt all on the sprocket instead of 1/8" off toward the motor. It ran, but pinging like hell. So I went back in, -looked like I missed the position on the driver's side a bit. To be sure, I removed the a/c, and water pump feeder-(dumping my antifreeze in the process) I miss the EA81 what a mess. Waiting a day to refill and run it, because I put some rtv on the water pump tube -fingers crossed. More to Come as always...

My 85 4wd wagon has a bit more rake than I'd like with the 2" lift -when it rains and I brake, it floods the windshield. If I could get it up in front an inch, it would help. Everywhere including the owners manual says there are adjustment nuts, but I don't see them. Forum searches are coming up vague as well. Don't see any plug for the rear torsion adjustment either. Mfg date is 12/84. I think the PO said the d-side strut was newer-the label there is readable,"KYB gas Replacement" -both sides look identical. Could the replacement strut be missing this? Am I not seeing something here?

^^I can only imagine the satisfaction you will experience driving cross country in a car you've had apart on this level!!

I had it pulled into a Dodge dealership right on the highway, which stays lit up, but you never know. My tires are new enough, plus some rednecks might have a problem with a "rice burner" there, and do something stupid to it.

Thanks guys, none of that worked so I ended up demolishing the cover by putting a small bolt thru a hole in the crank pulley enough to break the plastic and rotated it until the cover was broken enough to get it off. Went and put that belt on and got it home. Didn't really need the pulley off as much as I needed the cover gone

So my *$%#@ timing belt on the pass. side went mia, leaving me stranded. Went ahead and ordered the kit but it won't be here for a couple days, and I'd like to get the car back home where it's secure & easier to work on. Thought if I could get that belt off the motor on my bench, I could slap that on and drive it here. Trouble is the benched motor has timing belt covers, necessitating the removal of the crank pulley -which is tricky with the motor sitting on a milk crate with no flywheel. Anyone have a trick to get that off?

I've not seen any wires on the air cleaner bracket on any ea81 I have owned. I tried one of those Accel coils and had lousy luck with it -Plenty of power, just a really poor fit in the bracket, the coil wire boot wouldn't stay on either. That's my .02, fwiw, hth

^unless that motor can do that at 1200rpms, you are right -it's probably stuck!

^Going 140kpm w/no hands, no feet??

I used a 1/2" bit with the starter tip. I made this post for you when I did it. hth http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141156-redrilling-6-lug-wheels-pictorial/?hl=pictorial

175eya is on point, and He is East coast, where they are few, almost none here in the Midwest. Seems like there are many still in good shape in the PNW, where I guess you are trying to sell it. Compare it to what's on CL where you live. A 200K car from the 90's is on borrowed time for most of the gp. Just saying if you don't sell it to a 'subaru person', the value will not be recognized, -to others it's just an old beater, putting tires on it might be a risky investment to some. Good luck finding it someone that will love it.

Been messing with my a/c, removed the hotwire to the compressor, put plug back together,... doing other stuff, -suddenly it's working! Haven't had a car with working air for awhile, still need to shut it off to accelerate from stoplights, & uphill. Also, I've been trying to get the timing advanced to +20, with no luck -it will ping under load anywhere past 16, and the top end power is miserable(nothing left in 5th gear). This motor is just happier around 10-12 degrees advanced, and mileage is better there, too. Seems to always have a slight ping taking off from a stop -anyone else get this?

I think now you are the mechanic, and you can stop taking it to the the guy who said it was toast!

I have only done shoes on one of my old subys @ ~190K -pretty sure they were original, and still had a fair amount of pad left. It was a hatch, so a bit lighter, maybe, a manual car and I am big on coasting - I try to use brakes sparingly. I actually would not be surprised if they were factory. The uneven wear; I would guess you had a weak spring somewhere or uneven action somehow in that assembly. If both sides are like that, it's prob'ly just how they 'roll'. HTH

I think I want you guys around when the apocalypse or whatever goes down!

+1 on the quarter trick, deleting the asv cans-not really sure what you did there, -there's still quite a bit of 'junk' you can get rid of. You know you can use the cable linkage piece from the Hitachi, right? But it looks like you cut the cable end off and put the screw-on end there. May I ask what the thing is you have on your + battery cable? Also, what is the black square-ish box on the p-side firewall?

Thanks, guys I found 'em. They're colorful, too

Where do you find those?

The little rubber caps I have on all the extra vacuum ports are already cracking and one keeps popping off. Is there a better way to seal these short of taking the intake off and getting them welded shut?

*(OT) Can I get a better look at that funky air cleaner?

I dipped my wheels and it is holding up very well. Did my hood temporarily with ~3 $5 spray cans -large areas should probably be sprayed with a real paint gun.

I am curious about that switch, too... i went mercilessly at all those metal lines with cutters where I had to, I think there were 3 bolts holding them to the mani. The a/c idle holder probably will not line up either, might as well delete that if you haven't.