gsac132

I've got a 99 forester with a 2.5 sohc that started acting up. It started sputtering and popping while I was driving it and no codes showed up. When it does it I can mash the peddle to the floor and it takes off. So I guessed and put a new fuel pump in her, but the same condition is still present. Funny thing is it's idling fine and when you give it some throttle it responds. It's only when I'm driving at lower Rpm between 1500 and 3000.

I have a 2000 forester with a automatic transmission. I hear a loud clicking noise when I'm accelerating from a stop light and when I'm going up a hill. I jacked up the car to examine the drive train and discovered a bad wheel bearing on the driver side and a torn boot on the passenger side what concerns me is the clicking noise. It's coming from the axle where it attaches to the transmission. When I gripped the axle and turned it I could feel it clicking has anyone had a similar issue. I was also wondering should I replace he axle with used or new axle I seen OEM where over 300 apiece. Any advice?

I've replaced my 1999 foresters bearings and my 2000 forester I got bearings with seals from eBay for 80-100bucks but I did all the work myself I only did the one that was making the noise. They are a split bearing or a 2 piece bearing there's lots of great videos on you tube just do a search. Also an easy way to tell what's going on with your fantom noises is jack up one side of your car get the wheels of the ground grab the wheel and see if you can move it side to side a bad bearing will cause your wheel to move side to side and cause a clunking and a humming noise. Some machine shops in your area could or should be able to disassemble the bearings and seals and press it all back together for less than 75-100bucks there's 3 seals that go in the hub and the new bearing needs to be packed with bearing grease most reasons for new bearings failing is that they are not properly packed with grease when being assembled and it causes premature bearing failure and you stuck doing it again I've done both front and back wheels the back is way more difficult because I've never been able to remove the long lateral link bolt I've had to cut the bolt with a saws all and replace the bushings the bolt runs about 22 bucks and the 2 bushings cost 30 bucks each I'm sorry to here of your trouble I sympathize with you but I've got a lot of experience with this repair

Are you losing coolant out of the overflow? Or is it filling up to the bottle

Are you losing coolant out of the overflow? Or is it filling up to the bottle

I have a 99 Subaru Forester and I've noticed a squealing noise from the tank. I am sure it's the fuel pump, my question is about replacement should I get a Subaru pump or are aftermarket pumps ok. How difficult is taking the tank down? And is there anything I should know before taking on the repair myself?

sorry dude i saw the exact same thing on my 2000 forerster 2.5 turned out to be bad head gaske. does the overflow tank keep filling up to the top too because mine did

i know thats the easiest but i cant find any junk yards around that have them

ok thats a mistake that ive made i torqued it on the ground

ok everybody,lets see if we cant puit this failure to bed,ive replaced my wheel bearing twice and it seems as though its about to fail again.So rather than blame subaru or the bearing manufacturer im going to blame myself due to ignorance on my part. so question number 1 is about the seals. there are 3 seals the one seal is obvious.i know it goes on the inner cv shaft side aginst the shoulder then there's another seal it will fit on either side when i first did the job due to a bad bearing there was a seal on the hub.but that same seal will fit on the cv side or the inner end on top of the first seal of the hub.there is also what looks like a dust seal so which side does it go on question number 2.ive also read the torque on the cv shaft nut has a range of 135-165 ft lbs. what is the recommened torque. im thinking one of these two reasons can be causing the failure. I,m driving a 99 forester.

I'm a novice never done anything on airbag systems before is there any way to access a video or some kind of manual that shows a procedure to do this repair

Recently our 99 forester lost the horn before that the cruise stopped working and prior to that the air bag light came on. Could this be connected to a bad clock spring and if so how hard is it to change?

My 99 subaru forester has a air bag light on is this a stealership trip or is there a way to diagnosis it

I went back inthere and replaced the seals and no more leaks as of now,timing belt was done 40,000 ago so i left it alone looked to be in good condition i now have a p0420 code to diagnose

do you think trying seafoam is worth a shot