gsac132

thanks that helps,do you know if this drive shaft is a 2 piece drive shaft that would split in found a drive shaft but the parts guy said that the front u joint was bad but the back was ok.has anyone ever done this

is it possible to split a used drive shaft and use the rear shaft only

my 99 forester picked up a bad vibration about a week a go.I have since discovered that the drive shaft u joint is bad.A replacement shaft from the dealer is 800.00.I about fainted does anyone sell replacement joints or do I have to buy a shaft?I cant find a used one for a manual trans.Can any one help

Te problem was there before the repair.the pedal stays firm when you hold pressure on it.i did not disconnect the caliper hoses when I replaced the wheel bearing.the wheel bearing came apart inside the hub.it came out in pieces.when I jacked the car up the wheel was loose I could shake the entire wheel by grabbing it and moving it back and forth.i can only assume this caused the light to come on because the sensor was moving around in the housing.I had the ABS problem with the brake pedal pulsing while I was turning into park with the wheel turned all the way left and when I apply the brake you can feel the pedal pulsing and the anti lock motor or what ever the heck it is making the noise it makes as if I was braking on a slippery surface

My brake pedal needs to be pumped 1 or 2 times to get the pedal to full engagement. The car is a 99 Subaru Forrester. It also has antilock brakes. Recently the ABS light was blinking but after I repaired a rear wheel bearing it stopped Blinking. Also when I turn the wheel to the left and start slowing down for pulling into a parking place the ABS brake system start operating pulsing the pedal. Any help would be greatly appreciated

i have a 99 suby forester with a abs light on the brakes are definately acting really funny!I was wondering how to troubleshoot the brake that was causing the problem,I heard a noise coming from the front right wheel but didnt want to guess at it so i decided to ask if there is a way to pin point the problem

thanks for the inputi wont be able toget them for a couple weeks you know how it goes with finances.i,ll replace them then and i'll post back then to see if that fixxes it I also sent couger a messAGE AND REQUESTED THE TESTING PROCEDURE FOR THE COIL

the plug wires are xact spark plug wire set should i tear them off and get something else?What would you reccomend

if the valves are bent wouldn't it get worse as the rpms climbed?There isn't any noise coming from the heads that make it sound like there is any mechanical problem.And when the rpms reach around 1500 the engine is smooth.there is no hesitation in throttle response.I suspect that if the valves are bent there would be some kind of significant performance drop.Maybe I'm wrong and i'm being optomistic.

ireplaced the plugs and wires it still runs the same.I wish i had one to swap i dont want to buy one because if its not the problem i just wasted money i dont have to trouble shoot but i really do appreciate your input it has helped to narrow down the search.I'll just have to check around here there are a couple subaru dealers ho might let me swap with one of theres to see if thats it so thanks i think thats my next step

Is there any way to test the coil using a multimeter

i checked to make sure all the timing marks where aligned and tha checked out fine i also did a compression check on the cylinders (wet)they where all aronund 140.I should have mentioned that the car has a missfire code in cylinder 1 and 3

I had a timing belt change done at a garage after a idler failed on my 99 2.5 sohc engine it broke while it was at a stop light idling. after the new belt was hung it idled rough but seems to run fine once you pull out and start going i dont notice any drop off in power or fuel mileage you can here what sounds like the car is putting.In other words when it idles the sound of the engine out the exhaust goes putt,putt, putt,Ithought maybe they hung the belt wrong but that seems to be fine.any thoughts would be great from anyone thanks

thanks,I understand i just want to make sure its right.in the previous post it said the crank key should be at 6 o clock.is this your understanding too?

i,m not sure i fully understand please be patient with me i/m a novice with subarus(first one ever)if i,m counting the teeth on the belt how many teeth should i count to the cams.am i starting with the dotted lines on the belt?

the crankshaft sprocket

the arrow and hash are in line withone another

thanks all those pictures are helpful and the article.my subaru is missing the marks on the passenger side,there is no shield like is on the driver side.any suggesstions on the passenger side.

can anyone clear up the timing marks mystery for me! i have the crank with an arrow and a line on the back of it i cant seem to find any on the passenger side cam pulley the only one i ,m sure of is the drivers side when its loaded it lines up with a notch on the cover i,ve seen a picture on another thread with the crank.my arrow and line are lined up i,m completly confused.can anyone post pictures of this belt hung properly. and its a bear to get on there must be a procedure to hang this thing with out any struggle:banghead:

i just did my 99 and it came back running.rough and i found out that the the engine is A INTEREFERENCE motor and the valves might have been damaged this cost me 1000 at a garage and it still isnt right.and is leaking oil from behind the timing cover.replace all the seals when you tear it down.

does anyone know the correct spark plug gap for a 99 ej25 s.h.o.c engine

i own a 99 subaru forester 2.5 s.o.h.c ej25 its losing oil from somewhere other than the valve covers because i just replaced them i am a new suby owner and i bought one that was used hard,i knew it needed work when we bought it.also it has a new clutch in it but it has clutch judder problems i replaced the slave but that did not fix it i'm going to replace the master cylinder and the hose next figured it can,t hurt. it also has a rough idle but seems to have good power.check engine light code gives a misfire code on the passeger side cylinders.the rough idle started after the car stalled while my wife was driving.she was stopped at a light and it began to make a grinding noise and it shut off a quick inspection confirmed my suspicion that a timing pully bearing froze and the timing jumped some teeth and it shut off so a new belt and pullys where put on and valves where adjusted.it has been suggested that a valve may have been nicked and thus the rough idle. any other thoughts on this? also after the timing issue the brand new battery that was put in before the belt issue was toast after that.

what brand of spark plugs are recommended for a 1999 sohc 2.5