jmr052

I need to replace the small coolant hose running from under the manifold to the t-stat housing. :cornfuzz: Do I need to get OEM or will something else work? And if something else, what? Thanks, Jay

I disconnected the small plug that Skip mentions (great pic btw) and it is working the same. Meaning that the disconnect didn't help. I have disconnected the small plug to the micro-switch, yanked the AC fuse, disconnected the two plugs by the compressor. I still have high idle unless the dash vents are Off. More thoughts?? Thanks, Jay

My '89 EA82T started idleing about 1k rpm higher than it should have couple of weeks ago. About 2300 when cold and about 1700 when warm. I bought new wires, plugs, accel coil. When putting the wires on I noticed that the AC unit was especially hot. The only thing I have replaced so far are the wires. Started it up and still high. Unplugged the AC wires at the compressor and no change in idle. I put the fan speed to 1 and then hit the off button for the vents. Idle went to about 1100. Hit any of the buttons and up it goes to about 1700. I removed the fuse inside the engine compartment and it does the same thing. Conclusion: A signal is getting sent to the ECU making it think that the AC is on generating a load so it ups the idle. Any other thoughts as to the cause? How do I fix it? Thanks, Jay

I thought that there was someone on the board who was doing rallyx in an XT6 and put in a button to make the tranny "lock up" in the 50/50 split. Jay

I picked up some different struts from the PnS when I got the tie rod ends. I put them on tonight and figured out why the car was rubbing over small bumps. The struts I got from the first XT6 appear original and are about 1 inch shorter than the monroe struts I got from the second XT6. I did a quick run down a few rutted dirt roads and no rubbing! I still have a problem w/ the steering wheel pointing off to the right. I assume I have messed up the aliagnment but am wondering what would get adjusted during one. The only thing that appears adjustable is the tie rods. Anyone have any insight? Oh yea, what size is the axle nut on the XT6? Thanks, Jay

Morgan, The struts ride great. At least way better than the garbage I took off of the car, no bouncing. I know the drop is normal for the conversion. I think that gravelrx has done the conversion and is running 205/50/15 tires. I would like to know the type of rims and if they rub anywhere. All in all I can live w/ a little rubbing. I would like to raise the front up about an inch thou and/or lower the rear an inch. Jay

For those that have done the 5-lug conversion, I have three questions. 1) What size tires are you running? 2) What kind of rims? 3) Any rubbing? I have 195/60/15 snow tires on 8 oval hole outback rims ('98). Going slow, 10-15 mph, over a small dip, straight, both sides bottom out and rub on the top of the fender. Also when cornering at speed I get slight rubbing. This combo is only an inch larger in diameter than stock. Although like some, the conversion has appeared to lower the front quite a bit. I will have some pictures in a few days. Thanks, Jay

The 5-lug conversion I finished a little while ago really helped me out from being stupid. I am going 60 up this hill facing West with the Sun just set. I am thinking, haven't seen any deer in awhile, I shouldn't be going this fast right here at this time of day. Blink! Silouette of a deer in my lane. Slam on the brakes, tires screaming, deer staying put, I am getting closer and closer. I start thinking of a way out but everyone knows, no matter which way you chose that is the way the deer will go. I start going toward the ditch to just miss the animal and it stays true to form and goes away but to the same side as I am heading. I miss it by about a foot. The expense and time were worth the bigger brakes and tires. Anyone who has the chance should do it. Jay

I was talking w/ CCR a few months ago about a diff and reduction gear swap. He said that the diff should be a direct bolt in replacement. He wasn't as sure about the reduction gear. We were talking about a regular D/R and the RX tranny, taking the RX to 3.9 gears. He also said that the swap isn't hard and that you don't need any special tools. I have an extra of each and will do this when time and space allow. This was the impetus for the following thread I started a few weeks ago. http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=4513 I wanted to know, with stock tires, what the difference will be between the gearing in the real world. I have done some of the math but the real world is always better. Jay '89 TTW, FT4wd D/R Diff lock, rear LSD, 5 little lugs w/ Outback rims.

No. Although I might be able to find out this weekend who that is. Jay

Red 89 TTW. 5-Lug swap completed 9/27 using 15" Outback alloys. Jay

What does the spider look like on the XT? Is it an interesting looking aluminum 4 tube like plenum on top? If so, there is one at Action pull apart off of Colfax in Aurora, Co. Email me for directions if you need them. Also, I can't find the wheel page right now, but I saw 3 of those brushed aluminum looking wagon wheels at the Aurora Pull&Save on 33rd. I could get the wheels for someone but the intake would take longer than I have. Thanks, Jay

I will not be there. :boohoo: I am co-tournament director for the Colorado State Disc Golf Championship being held that weekend. See everyone next time. Jay

Heck, for $150 I would pull one and ship it to ya. Seriously, mine started squealing and then a few miles later, white smoke. Can you say hello to a head gasket makeover? You really need to get on it as there is no telling how long it will last or what will happen when it goes out. Jay

Does anyone have some 5-lug rims that I could borrow, buy or trade? I did a 5-lug swap on my older subie and the WRX rims that I thought would work aren't. I will trade straight across for rims w/ or w/o tires. I need them before Monday if possible. Please, Jay 720-201-7444

I put it on an 89 wagon. If I recall correctly the difference is 2mm, 18 to 20. What kind of difference? Well, it is much, much flatter in the corners and if you you try an avoidance maneuver, it actually responds to the steering inputs! Jay

Man what an upgrade! The difference in handling is great! It was more work taking the bar off of the donor than it was intalling it. Although I did have to adjust the top and bottoms of each bracket. I also used the old bars wrap around bushings, the ones that connect to the middle. Made the install a little tougher but now I have very tight bushings. If anyone is looking for a cheap $10 handling upgrade, this is it. Tonight, 5-lugs. Jay

DR. I would hope my comments sound familiar. I used the list you sent me to get my parts and used it to create the post. Just so you could rest your fingers. Jay

I just got the list and the parts. Might be putting them on the car Friday. The list might not make much sense until you actually look at a XT6 and look at an ea82. It seems that some people have had an easy time and others have had a difficult time doing the conversion. Although part numbers are supposedly the same, it sounds like it might be better to get all parts from the 4wd car. Rear: Rotor and Hub assembly Backing plate Lots of brake line. (I believe you should get two metal pieces and two soft pieces per side.) Calipers (Unless you already have rear discs). Front: The easy answer is everything from the tranny out. I didn't understand this until I looked at an XT6. Things are different. Axels (The hole in the hub is different, therefore different axle) Hubs Rotors Calipers Backing plate Lower suspension arm Steering Knuckle Strut (Might be obvious here but unless you already have air shocks you will need regular struts. My donor car had air, I had to find regular) Spring Brake line (Easier to just get it as it is threaded through the strut) Tie rod end Ball joint

The point?? Well, that will have to be answered later! Yes the RX D/R tranny has a different reduction ration ~1.2 and uses the 3.7 diff. I would really like to know if any of the trannies used the ~1.6 reduction w/ the 3.7 and the resulting speeds. I would also like to know the speeds for the 1.6 w/ 3.9 combination. If you don't want to "windup" the subie that far in low, I could use say a 2k rpm # instead but use the same # for Hi. Come on now, 10 minutes and it's done. Thanks, Jay

Get it from Snap-on. You can find cheaper but most are beveled in shape and won't fit down the hole. E-10 female torx socket. With the socket you will need a small extension for 1/4 drive. I tried to use this and stripped the heck out of the heads. Well, one stripped and the other sheared off. Q-man cleaned up the resulting mess. I am hesitant to try again. Jay

Bump.

I am after some speed/rpm numbers from an ea82 d/r. At 3000 rpm how fast are you going in 4 Hi: 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th At 3000 rpm how fast are you going in 4 Lo: 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Then I also need to know if you have a 3.7 or a 3.9 diff. Thanks, Jay

I just really like cruising through the Pike National Forest. If you go into the Forest and get to the small parking area for the tailhead to Devil's head, there are restrooms and a few tables. There might also be a grill or two, don't remember. From Castle Rock it will take about 30 minutes to get to the parking area. You can also enter the Forest in Monument. I got lost one time and came out there but I don't know how to get from there to the parking area. I could try to do a recon trip if anyone wanted to go from that direction. For those who aren't sure where Devil's head is, if you look West as you go South on 25 past Castle Rock, you will see a small mountain peaking up from behind the first ridge, that is it. On top is the last staffed fire lookout on the Front Range. If my information is correct, they don't close the Forest to cars until the first good snow so we would have some time. The trail is open year round, even up the stairs to the tower. It is only about 1.25 miles to the top. There are all kinds of fire roads to explore. If someone does some research, I am sure that there are 4x4 trails as they allow ATVs and motorcycles on a lot of the trails. Jay 720-201-7444 PS. Not the weekend of Oct 4 and 5.

Since the rear arm will fit, I think I will keep it since it has the bracket for a sway bar and my wagon was bracketless. Is the control arm the flat piece or the round one that goes on top of the flat one via two bolt that point to the ground? And another question.... Do I need to get the end of the Steering arm, the piece with the bolt or will mine work? I found a two wheel drive at another yard and got the struts today. I think that I have everything, might try this over the weekend. Thanks, Jay