jmoss5723

I removed the muffler from my Forester and got straight pipe welded in. It sounds awesome, but way quieter than I expected. It is completely unobtrusive while cruising around, but gives some growl when you get on the gas hard.

After a catastrophic chain of events set off by the failure of my A/C belt tensioner pulley on my Forester, I replaced timing belt and idlers, timing cover, A/C tensioner, accessory belts, and crank pulley. Then I reinstalled my rear sway bar, replaced a blown speaker, and fixed up my failing driver's window motor. It was a busy Sunday.

Does anyone have a clever idea on fixing my rad support? The cross bar itself is still solid, but the mounting locations for the bottom of the radiator are 100% gone. My radiator is currently resting on a bit of wiring harness and held in place by the rad hoses. Should I just weld on some new mounting tabs of some sort? (I'm a pretty crappy welder and my welder is crappy. We're a dream team!) Should I buy a new lower rad support from the JY and install it? Something else?

Timing kit went on no problem. All is well with the engine now. I do still need a new tensioner for the A/C belt, though. Some interesting bad news is that my radiator is basically just being held in by force of habit. The mounting points for the bottom of the radiator are completely rotted off the rad support. I'll have to come up with a clever solution to keep it reasonably in place.

Definitely jumped time. The passenger side cam pulley was off by like 3 teeth. I lined it all back up and started the engine and all seems to be fine. I'd say it was a seriously close call! New timing kit, timing covers, A/C tensioner, accessory belts, and crank pulley are going on this weekend.

It seems that that is what happened. It is all still in one piece, so I think I caught it early. It looks like it is intact. but I can hold the outer ring in place and turn the inner core inside of it.

That makes perfect sense. Now I feel silly.

I expect little to no difference. Maybe I'll get some placebo effect! Who cares if it actually is better if it feels better? No matter what, it will be in one piece, and that's better than what I've got now!

I found a Perrin pulley locally for $50. With the heavy oversized tires on my car, a little less rotating weight will probably be helpful. I'm hoping it might help my throttle response and eliminate the need to slip the clutch so much on uphill starts. If nothing else, it'll be pretty

I'm just going to put a breaker bar on the bolt, brace it against the floor, and blip the starter.

They definitely are. I just found a lightly used Perrin model locally for $50. Can't beat that!

I was considering putting in a lightweight pulley anyways, but decided to save the money since the budget is a little tight at the moment. If my pulley is toasted though, I'll certainly replace with a Perrin, Grimmspeed, etc.

2004 Forester XS (SOHC EJ251) Is my crank pulley shot? If so, how/why? Short story: I can hold the outer edge of the crank pulley in place, but the inner portion spins. Long Story: Today I was trying to remove my crank pulley in order to replace my timing belt. I have a chain tool similar to this one that I use to hold the pulley in place. With the outer edge of the pulley held in place, I began loosening the bolt that holds the pulley to the crankshaft. This is where the problems start. The outer portion of the pulley stays still, while the inner portion turns with the bolt. Just to double check what was happening, I pulled the driver's side timing cover and confirmed that I can turn the crankshaft while the outer edge of the pulley is held perfectly still. Longer Story: The other day My car suddenly started idling really rough while I was stopped at a light. It stalled itself out, but I got started and pulled to the side of the road. Running terribly and lacking in power BIG time. I popped the hood and saw that my A/C belt was shredded. The nut that holds the idler pulley to the bracket of the A/C belt tensioner was GONE. The belt forced the pulley into the timing cover, which cut a big hole in the cover and shredded the A/C belt. I suspect that the pulley also pushed on the timing belt and caused it to jump time which gave me the rough running and low power. I basically idled it the 2 blocks home and started to tear it down. That's when I discovered this odd behavior from the crank pulley. Any advice?

Brake pulsing never came back. I still have no idea what happened there. The car was sold a few months back to buy a minivan for my growing family. It was a bummer to have to sell it. It was probably the best subaru I've had yet. It's still rolling around though. I saw it on Sunday, a little dirty, but no worse for wear.

AH! I'm super pissed at myself now for not downloading an offline copy of the ski wagon page. You should get in touch with photobucket's customer service team and see about a free one-week trial or something. Then you can save copies of the threads and keep your $400.

Subaru switched from the old 2 piece to the new 1 piece tensioner mid year in 1998 models, right? Is there a way for me to know which style I need based on VIN or production date so that I can order parts for my timing belt change before I tear the car apart?

Thanks everyone! Sounds like it should be pretty trivial.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a good write up on a TB change for the EJ25D? I searched a bit and i couldn't come up with anything complete, just random individual tips and tricks. I've done a handful of SOHC belts, so I'm not exactly a novice, but I'd like to learn what I can before diving in.

How cool would it be if Subaru made a small pickup/ute based on the Ascent? Honda has had success with the Ridgeline, so why couldn't Subaru with an Ascent truck? The Baja failed pretty hard because it was just too weird and quirky, aesthetically. However, I think the Ascent is big enough and truck-shaped enough to pull it off. I don't need a "real" truck almost ever, but I make use of my BRAT's bed all the time. If I could have that same versatility in a vehicle, but with a few more seats (on the inside!) better than 75HP and modern safety equipment, I'd buy it in a minute. What do you guys think?

I have a bunch of used fun top parts. Latches, gaskets, glass, just about everything. If you send me a message with a picture of the exact part or parts that you need I can see if I have it.

I haven't' verified the dimensions of the offset on my wheels, but I'm not aware of these being offered in multiple offsets. So take a look at my pictures and see how the wheels fit. That's how yours will look.

That's the one! Definitely worth trying. I wouldn't mind an upgrade, but free replacement is better.

http://www.indysworld.com/subaru/gallery/wheels/wheels.html If you scroll down on that page, you'll see a picture of the lugs. I think that the issue is that the cone on the lug nuts is a different angle than most other lug nuts. I'm not an expert, but there are some around. I'd do some searching around and wait for more responses here if I were you.

http://imgur.com/a/qj2Mb

I'll bet that you have to have the receipt, which I almost certainly do not. I'm think that it might be time to upgrade! There is some nearly direct swap with a GM or Nissan alternator, right? Time to start searching...