jmoss5723

Ok I'll play nice. Here is a link to a sticky thread in the subaru retrofitting section of the forum: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/67098-please-read-ej-swap-write-up-ver-20-now-in-pdf-form/ I have not yet done an EJ swap, but I understand that this is like the Bible. Good luck!

Another option is something like this to replace my beat-up tailgate:

As a Pittsburgh sports fan, I can really support this black and yellow XV. Sweet car!

I'm not usually the guy to say this, but here goes: Search, search, search. EJ swaps are one of the most common topics on this site. Everything you would ever want to know has been answered 100 times. But the short answer is yes. Install engine with an adapter plate. Bolt transmission to engine. Drive car.

I think Scott means you can use the template that I gave you for the bottom of the strut topper and a stock top hat for the top of the topper and weld a piece of pipe in between. Layered like this from the top down: Unibody spare top hat Steel pipe cut to the right length for your lift height and at the appropriate 10 or 5 degree angle to correct camber Plate steel cut to the shape of the template Strut Correct me if I'm wrong.

I've been driving my BRAT for a while with either no spare tire or one that is too small stored under the hood. I'd like to get a 5th pug wheel to match the set I have and mount it somewhere instead of just leaving loose in the bed. So I'm looking for ideas and opinions. So far I'm thinking I'll make a swing out carrier of the bumper I'm building in the near future, but I want to hear opinions on all options: Rear swing out Rear swing down Front bumper mount (I don't think that my BRAT is big enough to pull off this look) Roof mount (My BRAT is a hard top) Bed mount somehow (I'd still like the bed to reasonable useable and I DO have jump seats installed) Something I'm not thinking of...?

I attached a PDF of the scan. Those are traced from a set of professionally manufactured lift spacers. I used these to make a few sets and they've turned out great each time. Some of the holes are obviously not traced perfectly, but with a tiny bit of measuring to make sure it was right, I had no problems. You could also make them out of cardboard or plywood first to make sure you've got it all right. It's a shame that we live in a world where this stuff has to be explicitly stated, but who knows what wacko might find this in a few years and screw himself up, so here is a quick disclaimer for you or anyone that uses this pattern: This is a guide ONLY. If it does not work out of you and you break your car or your body, I claim no responsibility. Use your brain and if you are not qualified to build a lift, either have someone else do it for you or have a professional inspect your work. New Gen Lift Pattern.pdf

Is there a machine shop around that you can go to? If you just need a few holes cut, they'll very likely do that for a couple of bucks. I don't know how far underage you are, but if you're still in high school and your school has a metal shop, you could probably ask the teacher do it or let you do it. That's how I got a lot of stuff done when I was younger and lacked certain tools.

I thought about this thread yesterday! Hopefully they come through. Has your agent been pestering the company for you? Having worked for big companies, I know how stuff like that can be super low on other people's priority lists. Sometimes if you annoy them enough, they'll do it just to shut you up

Drill press, hole saw, lube, and time. (Beer is optional, but recommended)

Welcome to the board! Nice Forester. I really like the looks of the front end on that generation.

As far as I can tell, a strut topper is a strut topper no matter who makes it, so long as they can weld and measure properly. Anyone's will probably do. Are you planning to fab the subframe drops yourself? If you're handy, I can send you scans of the plates for the top and bottom of the strut toppers and you can just cut some pipe (4.25" diameter in the front, 3.25" in the rear) to the right angle and weld it up. Edit: Keep in mind that I haven't bought and compared all the lifts that different guys are making. Based on pictures and what I've read, they are all the same basic design. I figure that they can't be THAT different.

Like AdventureSubaru said, they have camber bolts, so you don't have to on small lifts. It never hurts to, though, and with lifts that push the struts down more than 2ish inches below the subframes/crossmembers, you would probably need to. This would have a fairly small effect on the camber. I don't know what I was thinking here. This primarily affects your CV angles. I can say from my own experience, 1 3/8" of lift with no offset on my Forester was easy enough for the guys at the alignment shop to bring into spec.

How about the value of an EJ22 turbo from a 92 legacy with 108k miles?

Exactly! The car is very cool. The superiority complex is NOT.

Sounds like ill have to do some hunting around. If the problem doesn't present itself pretty readily, I'll just rewire it completely. I'd like to replace the light anyways. As most of us know, they're just about worthless. Thanks for the help!

Everything is definitely 23 spline on my car. So any 23 spline EA81 front axle it is. The plan is to inspect and rebuild if it isn't too worn. I just wanted to know which to get if it comes to the worst case scenario. I know the aftermarket axles are crap, so I'm going to try to get some rebuildable oem axles from a JY if possible. I might buy and rebuild one just to keep on the shelf as a spare either way. Thank you for the helpful, clear, and concise replies!

I tried to search for this and saw a bunch of conflicting info. Some people say EA81 and EA82 cars use the same axles. Some say they don't. I know there are different spline counts for some cars and differences between FWD and 4WD as well. Can someone who has a 5 speed dual range transmission swapped into their gen2 car help me out? I'm not looking for another thread full of speculations. Which CV axles do I use? I have one clicking like crazy on my BRAT and I need to swap it out, but since the trans swap was done before I bought the car, I don't know which axles it takes. I could also get just an outer joint, so if any axles are different enough not to work, but have the same outer DOJ, I could get one of those.

From one Pennsylvanian to another: Welcome!

Reading the comments on this from the perspective of non-subaru people was interesting. And as an American, it was equally interesting to have it from the perspective of another culture. I'm so used to looking at BRATs that the things that stuck out to them are so commonplace to me.

Thanks! Now I know.

Especially for a New England car!

The dome light in my BRAT will not turn off with the door jamb switch. The switch on the light assembly works great, but if I set it to turn on/off when the door opens/closes it has an issue. Door open = light on bright(ish) Door closed = light dim Same thing from either door. I tried waiting to see if there was a delay. If there is, it is a LONG delay. Anyone know what's going on?

What is the silver electrical component up against the back of the cab on the transmission tunnel in my BRAT? I have the interior semi-removed for a completely unrelated reason and now that I see this part, I'm curious as to what it is. Thanks! http://imgur.com/kip6uiV

I like the light blue. Maybe because its just a familiar sight under the hood? Looks like home, I guess.