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jmoss5723

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Everything posted by jmoss5723

  1. jmoss5723
    Dang. I didn't even realize Subaru made a 1.5L engine. That makes my Brat's 1.8L seem HUGE! Sorry I can't offer much in the way of help. I learned something today though!
  2. jmoss5723
    I've only got a 20 amp relay and a 15 amp fuse. It all works well. It is cost effective. My starter works fine and my ignition works fine, I just think the sum of the 30 year old parts and wiring can't deliver the power. Why throw a new starter at it if the starter works? (In your case the starter is free, but still.) No matter what, I've learned that keeping a few feet of stout wire in the glove box is a good idea. I can always jump straight from the battery to the starter if something goes fubar!
  3. jmoss5723
    Bummer. That spot was already drilled. I kinda figured pointing down would be better, but I went lazy on it...
  4. jmoss5723
    Same thing with installing the relay. Instead of all of the power necessary to start the car having to flow through the entire ignition circuit, just enough to trigger the relay has to. Once the relay is triggered the starter gets power straight from the battery. It skips all of the old contacts and ancient wiring. The relay was like $5 and I had a few feet of wire laying around.
  5. jmoss5723
    This sounds a LOT like what happened to me in my brat recently. My first post in the thread i linked is misleading. It was acting like it didn't have enough juice to start, but I was misdiagnosing the problem. It was basically just like what you're describing. The fix detailed in the thread worked perfectly. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147906-84-brat-intermittently-grounding-out/?do=findComment&comment=1244109
  6. jmoss5723
    Now I'm considering the POR-15 Bedliner, as well. Their rust treatment is obviously the Bee's Knees, maybe the bedliner is too?
  7. jmoss5723
    Was there actually something wrong with your fuseable links or did you just replace them as a trial-and-error approach?
  8. jmoss5723
    Here is the underside of the wheel well where the roll bar attaches. http://imgur.com/els5EXI Here is the mounting point for the main hoop right behind the cab. http://imgur.com/pva0Bei Sorry for links instead of images. I'm on my phone. EDIT: Here are the actual pictures. The bar mounts to the 4 smaller holes. One is on a hump for whatever reason, but the bar I have is double thickness near the other 3 holes to account for the height difference.
  9. jmoss5723
    Bed liner started coming up from day one. I put it on 3 years ago and it really started peeling this summer. I hardly even use the bed, too. I'm going to cut and weld on the wheel wells where they rusted. I'll POR-15 the shock towers before I put new metal on. I'm going to use aircraft stripper to take the bed to bare metal then POR the rusty spots. I'm also going to close in the sides of the shock tower where it leaves a gap and causes the rust on the wells.
  10. jmoss5723
    I have a honeycomb grill. No idea what it's worth. I'll text you a picture tomorrow.
  11. jmoss5723
    Has anyone tried the Iron Armor brand DIY bed liner from Harbor Freight? The stuff is cheap ($34 with a coupon), and has pretty good reviews everywhere that I have looked. Anyone try it in their Brat or other random application? Note: PLEASE do not tell me to get a professional liner installed. I'm a poor young dad with school bills and I can't justify the expense without at least trying the DIY first. I used one DIY before with miserable results, but I'm about 95% sure that was due to poor preparation. I am NOT getting a professional liner at this point unless one of you knows a place that does them for free.
  12. jmoss5723
    I'll try to get some shots tonight for you. I don't think there is really any extra reinforcing, but the bolts on top of the wheel well run right into the rear shock tower. I think the bulk of the strength of the setup comes from the main hoop behind the cab rather than the legs to the wheel wells. The bedliner was a DIY kit. I forget what brand, but I still have the leftover material around so I'll check what it was. I really think the problem with that liner was poor prep work. It is REALLY stuck on the sides, but peels right off of the floor. I'm going to strip it all out and put in the Iron Armor brand from Harbor Freight. It got remarkably good reviews everywhere that I looked and I can get more than enough to do the whole bed for $34 with a coupon.
  13. jmoss5723
    I've got one in the for sale forum...
  14. jmoss5723
    I have 2 thoughts: #1 If you have a vise, a sawzall, and a drill, you can pretty easily make your own 2 inch lift out of 1/4" thick 2x2 steel tubing. Anyone who can make a straight-ish cut and drill a hole, can build a 2 inch lift. There are pretty good instructions if you search around a bit. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146190-cheap-and-easy-2-lift/ Of course if you have a band saw and a drill press it makes it a little bit easier, but it can definitely be done without. If you want to go taller than 2 inches, I don't think I'd recommend just slapping some blocks in, but a 2 inch lift like I've described is tried and true. Save your money for something else. #2 Buying stuff is a little bit easier. Just my opinion, but like they say, opinions are like ***holes. Everyone has one and they all stink.
  15. jmoss5723
    I happened to take these pictures yesterday as the "Before" shots for a new bedliner and some rust repair. Probably not perfect, but not bad. Helpful at all?
  16. jmoss5723
  17. jmoss5723
    The obvious choice is breakfast food for dinner!
  18. jmoss5723
    Here are my new rockers, too. I have to do a little grinding and body filler to smooth it out, but all the metal is there again.
  19. jmoss5723
    The shift linkage is put back together. With all the parts this time, too! I installed a relay into my ignition circuit. The problem that I thought was an intermittent grounding was actually just too much resistance in the old circuitry. I wired a relay that the ignition activates so that power goes directly to the starter instead of through the whole ignition circuit. Starts every time now. I also started tearing into the bed a little bit. I'm removing all of the peeling DIY bedliner and redoing it. I have to address a little bit of rust, too Here is what I'm starting with:
  20. jmoss5723
    Works perfectly now! And it was very easy. Thanks everyone for the helpful replies!
  21. jmoss5723
    Figured it out. basically I'm just setting up the relay so that the ignition activates the relay which sends power straight from the battery to start the car, instead of the power running through the whole ignition circuit to start the car. Right? So I need a new fused 12v wire to power the relay. I'm hooking it all up today. I'll report back once its working.
  22. jmoss5723
    Is the "fused 12v" the positive from the battery that already runs to the starter? Or a new fused 12v that I need to run? If its new, what amp fuse?
  23. jmoss5723
    Can you narrow down what size "fattish" is? I tested it and I'm pretty sure this relay is the solution. I just want to make sure I hook it up right.
  24. jmoss5723
    Unless someone did something really weird, the brakes are probably from an EA82 turbo vehicle.
  25. jmoss5723
    Narrow edge to the back.
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