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Everything posted by jmoss5723
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This makes me feel better. This gives me some hope.
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Possible head gasket failure on the Ski Wagon Maybe an intake manifold issue? Either way, its slurping coolant and blowing a cloud of white exhaust. I have so many other projects on my plate that this will have to go back to storage until spring. I'll figure it out then. Whatever it is, I'm pretty frustrated.
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Changed 2 ball joints on the 2002 OBW. What a terrible job that was! It did eliminate the vibration in the steering wheel from 50-65mph, though Fully stripped a wrecked 2005 Forester of all useful parts so that I can scrap the shell. Pulling the 4EAT by yourself in the rain with the car on a trailer and barely enough clearance to get it out is no trivial task!
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I replaced both ball joints on my wife's 2002 OBW last night and it was a horrible experience. Bolts seized into the knuckle, ball joints REALLY seized in to the knuckle, and the ball stud stuck in the control arms! It took me 5 hours to do the whole job. I was using a 6 foot cheater bar on the end of my pry bar to pop the the joint out of the knuckle! When my brother tried to replace the ball joint on his 98 RS, he ended up buying a junkyard knuckle with a good ball joint in it after he wrestled with his off and on for a week! I have one ball joint with a torn boot on my Forester which I'll have to attend to soon. I'm planning on doing both sides, just to be thorough. I'm hoping it won't be as bad as my experience last night. Please tell me that there is an easier way! My back is killing me from application of brute force.
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This is the kind of info that I came for. Thanks. I've decided that I'd like to try something simpler anyway. This just solidifies that idea. The new plan is to buy the 2000 and just replace it's bad auto trans with the auto trans from the 2003 then sell it for profit. I believe that it should work mechanically, but will the wiring be plug-n-play or close to it? Will the shift linkages hook up properly? The trans codes and gear ratios are below. Year: 2000 TY755VC1BA 1st: 3.545 2nd: 2.111 3rd: 1.448 4th: 1.088 5th: 0.780 Rev: 3.333 Final: 4.111 Year: 2003 TY755VC3AA 1st: 3.454 2nd: 2.062 3rd: 1.448 4th: 1.088 5th: 0.780 Rev: 3.333 Final: 4.111
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I have a good automatic transmission from a 2003 Forester X. There is a really clean 2000 Forester for sale nearby that needs a tranny. Could I buy the car and drop my trans in and go? If it is not plug and play, does anyone know what I would need to modify? New idea. Swap my reliable, lowish mileage engine and 5 speed tranny from 2004 SG into the 2000 SF. Junk the non-functional SF automatic transmission. Install the auto from the 2003 SG and the motor from the 2000 SF into the 2004 SG. Obviously I would need to swap pedal boxes, clutch cylinders, etc.,too. Then I would sell the 2004 SG and keep the really clean 2000 SF which now has a reliable motor and 5 speed trans. Am I insane?
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Welds look pretty good, but the unibody rails are looking a little soft
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I got the old transmission pulled last night in about 2 hours. I had to drop the (nearly non-existent) exhaust, and the sway bar. I was pleasantly surprised when I didn't break any crusty rusty bolts (thank you torches and PB Blaster). I'll need to upload some pics later, but I'm glad that I got to spend some time under there. The transmission mounts were destroyed. The only thing holding the transmission up there was habit. The rails of the unibody are looking pretty rough at the front. And the driver's side inner CV boot was totally gone. Oh and I solved my super sloppy shifter issue: If you follow the linkage down starting at the shift knob, the very first bolt that you would encounter was missing it's nut entirely and barely in the hole! By the way, RockAuto has EA81 transmission mounts for $5.87 each right now. Cheapest I could find locally was $32!
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Anybody have advice on this? It looks like the transmission swap is happening tomorrow.
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Sure! I'll take some pics later today. It was simple for me because mine had the seats originally, they had just been removed at some point. So I just had to find marks from where the old welds were cut and I knew that's where I needed to line it up to bolt it. The roll bar is OEM.
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Yesterday I put the car on the charger for a few hours, gave it a few hard cranks, and it fired right up I drove it home with a deafening roar coming form the loosely attached exhaust Y-pipe and I couldn't stop grinning. It is such a cool car. I just ordered exhaust manifold gaskets. One set for the Ski Wagon, one set for the BRAT, and another set for a spare. (Fel-Pro P/N MS91075). I'm planning on swapping the transmission next week, then I'll ge the exhaust sorted out. I have until then to find the new exhaust studs that I bought and then lost somewhere 2 years and one house ago...
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EA81 Exhaust Manifold Gasket Part Numbers?
jmoss5723 replied to jmoss5723's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Weird. If I search by part number on Rock Auto, those come right up saying that they fit basically every EA series Subaru. If I look for them by browsing parts that fit my (or basically any other) Subaru, they don't show up. Either way, they seem to be exactly what I need. Thanks for the help! -
Does anyone know a brand and part number for a good exhaust manifold gasket for the EA81 engine? The auto parts stores keep coming up with a Fel-Pro gasket that is just a little ring. I'm hoping for a metal one that extends to the flange and has holes for the exhaust studs. Can anyone tell me a brand and part number for this? Edit: Do the gaskets from EA82 turbo vehicles fit? If so, I've found what I need on RockAuto.
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How about for an Gen2 / EA81?
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Armed with this info, it seems like it should be fairly obvious which is which. Thanks for solid replies!
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The BRAT has been long overdue for a new exhaust. The current one is in very nice shape, but hangs really low since I lifted the car. The current exhaust is moving to the Ski Wagon, and I'm putting a new exhaust on the BRAT. I really like the sound of the current set up (1 7/8 or maybe 2 inch pipe all the way back with a Magnaflow muffler). It seems to perform fine and the sound is great - mild-mannered at idle and a little growly when I'm on the throttle. I'm wondering if I should just do the same configuration on the new exhaust, or if I should try something else. Anyone have opinions? I'm considering going a little louder...
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Good news, everyone! The Ski Wagon is about to see some progress! I've been storing the car while I free up funds (finish up my house project). The place I've been storing it just got sold, so the car is coming out to see daylight again. I figure that is motivation enough to make it at least driveable while I put together the rest of the cash to make it pretty. I need to swap in the 4spd D/R tranny, put an exhaust on it, and throw on a front bumper. That should be it for now. What I'm thinking I'll do is put the BRAT's exhaust on it since it is in great shape. Then I'll get a new exhaust made for the BRAT that will tuck up nicely. The current exhaust hangs so low since lifting the BRAT. The BRAT's bumper will also be moved over to the Ski Wagon and I'll finally get around to making the tube bumpers for the BRAT. Then I'll put in the tranny and we'll be good to go! The only questions on my mind right now are these: 1) Before I install it, should I be replacing any seals or anything on the new transmission as preventative maintenance? 2) How about bushings, etc. in the linkages while they're all disconnected? 3) Anything that I'm not thinking of?
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I have a D/R 5 speed and a D/R 4 speed out in the garage. Over the last couple years they have been moved a round a little bit and now I can't remember which is which. Neither has any linkages or anything to easily identify it to the uninitiated. What's the quickest way to tell?