jmoss5723

For anyone curious, you CAN cram a size 34 battery in there, but you have to mount it a tiny bit crooked to keep it from rubbing on the timing chain cover. If you have a 4 cylinder, it'll fit no problem. A 34R (with reversed + and - posts) would be better because the standard 34 requires that you disconnect a little clip that holds the positive lead in place. The 34R would eliminate this need. I'll post a picture later to clear things up a bit. Long story short, with Walmart's Everstart Maxx I got more RC and 800CCA vs 640CCA for $3 less by getting the 34 instead of the 35. No brainer! The real dream would be to get a 34R/78 with the reversed posts and secondary side posts for accessories, too.

We didn't get a chance to mess with it further yesterday, but they are pristine 12pt bolts. They aren't mangled in any way (yet). I tried a 3 foot breaker and it felt like it was about to live up to it's name, if you know what I mean. In the process of putting everything back together that we took apart in bringing this car back to life (TB, radiator, etc.) so that we could try working on it after bringing it up to temp, we hit a snag which has delayed us a little bit. There is a T connector (P/N 11821AA450) in the vacuum hose about 4 inches before the PCV valve that was so brittle it just crumbled when I tried to disconnect the hose to change the PCV. After driving all over trying to find a similar fitting, we ended up having to order one at the dealer for $10. For the purpose of bringing the car up to temp to try to break the bolts loose on the VC, we're going to have to just put a cap on the PCV valve (or maybe thread a bolt into it's place if anyone knows the size and thread?) to eliminate the huge vacuum leak. We'll try this all again today.

All the others I've done are 6 point, but these are definitely 12. Must be replacement bolts?

Well now I feel like a jerk. I thought you were trying to be clever/rude. If you really thought I was a kid, I can see how getting Dad might be helpful. At this point in my life, I am the dad who comes to help!

I'm not looking for dumbass condescending remarks. I'm a grown man who does not need his elderly father's help to turn a bolt. I'm sure that I could easily apply enough force to snap the head off of the bolt, I'm looking for good ways to avoid doing so.

My brother just bought 1996 impreza outback with valve cover gaskets that are practically gushing. Someone has tightened those 12-sided bolts down WAY too tight. I've sprayed PB Blaster on them. I've tried hitting the wrench with a hammer. I sorta tried the torch, but there are so many hoses and wires that I'm afraid I'll burn something. Our next step is going to be to put the car back together and bring the engine up to operating temp, then try again with it hot. We should be able to get an impact gun on some of the bolts if we pull out the battery, washer bottle, and air intake. Does anyone have any other suggestions on how to get these bolts out without breaking something?

Does anyone know what is the biggest battery I can cram into my outback? Standard replacement seems to be the 35. It looks like a group size 34 will fit, but is anyone running something bigger? Obviously I could break out the tape measure and run around the store checking every battery, but if someone knows off-hand, it'll save me the trouble. Thanks! As a side note, I keep hearing good things about Walmart's Everstart Maxx as far as bang-for-your-buck goes. Anyone know how that would compare to the Duracell Platinum AGM batteries at Sam's club?

Does anyone know if the roof rack crossbars from a 90's Legacy Outback will fit on the factory side rails on a 96 Impreza Outback? The factory crossbars on the OBS are ridiculously tall and I'm afraid that they will look really silly with a roof basket installed. I'm hoping I can get the lower profile bars from a JY OBW.

Only doing a strut lift on a gen2 car is a BAD idea. It is impossible to get the camber even close to correct and the axles get smoked, too. I built and installed my lift in one day the second time around. (I had to do it twice because I didn't read enough before diving in the first time...) And if you have a welder, the steering shaft extension is trivial. 2x2 tubing 1/4" thick makes a pretty solid lift that is well documented and proven to stand up very well. The worst thing that I've heard is bent strut spacer blocks after REALLY hard wheeling. That's hardly catastrophic. Pre-made lifts are nice and lots of guys on the forum sell them, but if someone wants to make their own, it really is simple and safe if you have even the slightest fabrication experience.

DIY 2" lift couldn't be easier. There are lots of threads about it. If you have a sawzall and a drill press, you can make one. A steering shaft extension IS needed, but that's easy.

Awesome!

That's why Dad decided to just go for it. The mechanic is like 25 years old and just starting out so maybe his price is low to start generating some business. I've seen some pretty decent work that he's done, talked to him for a while in a parking lot once, and he is a friend of a friend. Seems like a smart and honest guy and his price is awesome. I just sent a DB file request to your email. Thanks!

Thanks for the good responses, everyone! As fate would have it, my dad decided that this was a good opportunity to try out the new local independent Subaru mechanic. So I don't get to take a crack at it this time. This guy is doing it today for $370 including fluid and filter. I was going to do it, but my brother has his new (very used) $400 Impreza torn apart in my parents' garage and Dad needs the Outback back ASAP. On one hand, I was looking forward to the learning experience because with 10 Subarus in the family this will not likely be the last time that this needs to be done. On the other hand, I'm way too busy as it is with a fixer-upper house, a new baby, and car stuff of my own and I don't totally mind catching a break here.

Does anyone know where I can find a write-up or video to walk me through removing a 4EAT from a 2003 Outback wagon? I've searched quite a bit, but I haven't come up with anything yet. Ordinarily, I'd just crawl under there and figure it out, but I need to have as quick of a turnaround as possible, so I'm looking to do a little homework and get it right the first time around.

I was planning on using a floor jack. I do have a chain hoist in the ceiling in my dad's garage that I could use, though. Do you think that is the better route to go? If clearance is going to be an issue with the jack, I can always put the car up higher. I have some big stout timbers that are about 6x8x24 that I can put under jack stands to get even higher. I'd do it like in my crappy little diagram below, where the 'A' is the jack stand and the boxes are 2 timbers side-by-side. A [ ][ ]

I was thinking I'd pull the back wheels onto ramps and jack the front until it was level. I would think things could definitely get wonky with the axles pulled and the front wheels on ramps.

Really high like 8inch ramps, or higher than that?

Does anyone know where I can find a walk-through/how-to write up for removal and replacement of the transmission? I tried to search for one, but I've had no luck. I'm inclined to think that I crawl under there and just figure it out, but I think I ought to do a little homework first.

I'd like to hear more about that for my wife's OBW. Can you link me to the thread?

Looks like its going to be the JY transmission. Went and looked at the craigslist car and it looks like it hasn't been super well cared for and the tranny was looking a little wet. Thanks for the input, everyone!

Well I'd get the tranny, tires, and whatever spares I can pull off for $500, then scrap the car for $200. That's $300 for all of that instead of $375 for just a tranny. And there is still the possibility of getting a nicer shell than the car we have now which is starting to get pretty crusty... It isn't a totally black and white decision. I'm debating with myself still.

I'm still considering gambling it. I might actually swap the motor fromteh current car into the one that would be the donor. If it is straight and less rusty than what we've got. The other option is $375 for a tranny from a 2002 at the JY with a 60 day warranty.

Is the problem with internal or external seals? In other words, could I tell by looking if this thing is leaking?

I'm looking at replacing the automatic transmission in my dad's 2003 outback wagon because of growling front differential bearings. A 2001 outback wagon with 200,000 miles popped up locally for $500 with a broken timing belt. Would it be stupid to buy it and use the tranny as the donor then scrap the rest? In the short term it is by far the cheapest option, but I'm wondering how much life to expect from a 200k mile 4eat transmission. All advice is welcome! Thank you.

When winching, I'd probably unplug and draw only from the battery, so there's no concern there for fuse popping. I'm just wondering if I'm leaving a potential for weird stuff to happen when I have a power source (the second battery) where the circuit was only designed to have a power draw.