jmoss5723

Dang. What is the wheelbase on that thing? It looks much smaller than I imagined, and that is definitely a good thing. I am certainly going to be interested in a kit for one of these in the future.

20 bucks a tire!? My tire guy charges $30 for all four! He takes the wheels of the car and the tires off of the wheels, installs and balances the new tires, and puts the wheels back on the car for a total of $30.

72 hours! I would have been locked up a long time ago... Have you thought about moving?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Brat-Drivers-side-Tail-light-/151723431025?fits=Make%3ASubaru%7CModel%3ABrat&hash=item23536bd471&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/82-86-Subaru-Brat-Left-Tail-light-/171837617704?hash=item280251f628&vxp=mtr

WTF kind of law if that? Is it your property or not? If someone doesn't have a garage, is it just flat-out illegal for them to fix their own car? I'd tell your neighbor and the city to get bent!

I have a few pairs of these lenses, but it sounds like I ought to keep them. If my BRAT ever gets hit in a parking lot, backed into, or vandalized, I'll be glad I have them!

Sounds pretty reasonable, and I had assumed that this was the case. Glad to hear that no one thinks anything strange is going on!

My sister-in-law was having a weird condition where her car would intermittently not start, so she brought it so me and I checked it out for her. Turned out to be an easy fix. The big wire on the starter was barely on! The nut was just hardly on the end of the stud. I tightened it down and it was all better. Simple. What I'm struggling to figure out is HOW it came loose. Any ideas?

The ski wagon has had very little use since i bought it =( but I have not noticed any issues yet. This summer was supposed to be the big push to finish up the exterior and get it basically finished, but I accidentally bought a house...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/mobile/dp/B0076KBPNI/ref=mobile_oh_details_?ie=UTF8&app-action=detail&asin=B0076KBPNI&clickstream-tag=your_order I bought this one a year ago to use with torque. Cheap as heck and I have no regrets yet. I'm sure the one you have there is just as good or better.

Use a grease specifically for brakes. They are designed to take high heat, the can has a little brush in it so that you don't get all greasy applying it, and it works well because it is for this specific application. I've used this exact stuff for years and it works great >> http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-ultra-disc-brake-caliper-lube-8-oz-24110/12027858-P Put it on the backs of the pads, the pad clips/guides, and the pins. While you're at it, you should buy some Anti-Seize.http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-8-oz-80078/7070021-P A container like this is practically a lifetime supply. If you put that on the threads of all of the bolts, next time you need to do a brake job, it won't turn into a BREAK job and you will be able to skip the PB blaster and the torch.

Use a bunch of PB Blaster ahead of the time on the bolts that attach the caliper bracket to the knuckle. Heck put it on all of the bolts. And probably heat the bolts up good with a torch. I broke bolts on each of the last 3 Subarus that I did brakes on. All in the same week, too I just use a plastic cup, a piece of vinyl tubing, and a buddy for my brake bleed kit. I've used reman calipers from Advance Auto before with good results. You should make certain that the caliper itself is stuck, though. I've only had 1 caliper seize on 7 new gen subarus. But I've had quite a few stuck guide pins in the caliper bracket. It is WAY cheaper to just replace the bracket and pins than the whole thing. Just make sure you only fix what's broken. In my experience, for general street use or commuting, brake fluid is brake fluid, so long as it is the right kind. You can make sure the e-brake is properly adjusted by turning the little adjuster do-hickies on the back side of the brakes.

Something else to check when all the usual obvious stuff is not the problem is the seal around the spark plug tube in the side of the valve cover. Sometimes that fails and lets oil get on the plug. Wet plug=No spark. Pull the rubber boot for the spark plug and check for oil.

If they have it for iPhone, get the Torque app and a Bluetooth OBDII scanner. I bought the cheapest one I could on amazon. I try never to buy chinese since I believe our economy is WAY too dependent upon them, but I was broke at the time... I've been thrilled with this set up so far.

I've had this happen twice. Once in my Forester and once in my brother's Impreza RS. Exactly as you've described it, except as time went on, it got worse and the cars would start bucking with the misfires. In both cases it was from oil leaking past the seals on the valve cover and into the spark plug tubes. Check the rubber boots for your spark plugs for oil.

I made some changes to the list. Everyone let me know what you think. Jono, is all of that documented in a thread somewhere? I'd love to read through it.

They pop up on ebay from time to time and they can often be had here in the member classifieds. Post a Wanted Ad and see what you get! Otherwise, you will be stuck with what you can find at the JY or a part-out.

If this list becomes comprehensive enough, maybe it should be stickied somewhere. Seems like it could be a useful tool for people trying to get parts at a junkyard or through the member classifieds, right? I guess we'll see if it takes off first.

I have the opportunity to pick parts from a 93 Loyale that an acquaintance bought for parts to fix up his 88 wagon. Which parts will fit my 84 BRAT or 83 GL wagon? I'm thinking for either upgrades or spares. I have no experience whatsoever with gen3 cars, so I don't know at all what will work. I'll start a list and edit this post to add to it as I figure parts out. I'm starting with 2 categories: "Direct Fit" and "Modification Necessary." Direct Fit: Front hubs Wheels Rear brake assembly as a whole. Flywheel Seats Exhaust Y-Pipe Fuel Pump Fuses Globes Modification Necessary: Engine Transmission Spindle assembly minus axle and strut (have to use ea82 wheels after that since brakes are slightly bigger) Fuel injection system Direct fit means it just bolts up and works. It doesn't have to be the EXACT same part, per se, but it should require no modifications. Modification Necessary means just that. Something will have to be modified for the part to work. I'll list the modification if it is simple enough, otherwise, searching and reading will be required. Obviously anything is possible with enough time, skills, and money, so I'm going to try to keep the list reasonable. Any mods that require major surgery to the chassis, or are not already well-documented on the forum will not be included. If you think I've listed something wrongly, please let me know! I don't know much about this, which is why I asked the question in the first place. I'm just compiling it!

There are a few EJ22 motors on craigslist or available through junkyards in the Pittsburgh area for $2-300 right now.

Brake line update (sorry to derail the auto parts store debate!) I got both lines replaces with little incident. Everything came apart easily (because I just cut he old lines off and used a socket to remove the flair nuts near the calipers) and went together without incident. And only had to redo one flair because I forgot to put a nut on. Just one! Let me just say that the copper nickel lines are SO easy to work with. They flair nicely, bend nicely; I love them. I was going to do a write-up on this fix, but it is so simple that one is not needed. I'll take a few pics of my finished product when I bleed it all out and check for leaks tonight. If you see the pictures, it is all pretty self-explanatory.

Maybe this a stupid question, but how much brake fluid should I need to replace all the air in my brake system? I just replaced both rear hard lines after a blown line caused major leakage. I think I gulped air at the master cylinder, too. I figure I will bleed the master cylinder (which I hope I didn't score by pushing the pedal too deep...) then bleed the whole system out using the RF, LR, LF, RR sequence. So who knows how much fluid I'll probably need? I know I can return it if I buy too much, and that's what I'll do if No one chimes in, but i figured I throw it out there.

Genuine curiosity here since I have no experience with this kind of work: Any reason not to relocated the radiator to somewhere safer? I Imagine this thing will be going pretty slowly most of the time offroad and will be cooling the rad with the fans far more than with air moving through there while travelling at speed. Seems like you could keep it from getting plugged with mud or smashed/punctured by putting it somewhere else, without any real sacrifice to cooling.

I stumbled across this ancient dead thread and figured some new people might have good stories, so BUMP! Here is my ONLY stuck subaru story. I've been pretty close to stuck in mud and snow plenty of times, but this was the only time I was truly helpless. When I was a freshman in college, there was a ski resort about 15 minutes from campus and I went almost every day. Everyday on my way there I'd see a PennDOT hardhat left on a fence post by its owner and think, I should grab that. It's cool! But I always remembered just as I was passing it and would figure I'd get it next time. After about 10 days of this, enough was enough. I forgot on the way there but there was NO WAY I'd forget on the way back. I pulled my 97 OBW over onto a perfectly flat shoulder with a few inches of fresh snow on it, hopped out, crossed the road, and grabbed my prize. Go back in the car ready to drive off and found that the flat shoulder was really a 4 foot deep ditch filled with snow. I was sitting on the floor pans with all 4 wheels dangling and only about 6 inches from the road. This was also the day that my high school youth group from home drove up for their annual ski trip. Guess who got mocked by a 15 passenger van filled with teenagers as they pulled me out of the snow? At least I got the hard hat...

Dang that's cool. I wonder if anyone ever made a Ski Wagon matchbox-type car...