gizmonix

okay. I definitely did the fly wheel but not sure about the clutch cable. thanks for the tip! (I'm severely ignorant with many car things)

The car was found abandoned and had obviously been lived in for a bit with an empty gas tank. I feel like the person drove it until out of gas, lived in it a bit, and then left it. Maybe they had a similar key; I definitely wouldn't be too shocked but still feels oddly random. As for the tires/wear, nothing I noticed to be off. Car has 260k+ miles on it and has been well... used. I bought a couple of new tires within the past two years too and seem about right. I only drive about 300 miles per month on average and ~20,000 miles feels like spoob mileage for the clutch but I guess it's not unheard of. The clutch was always a bit loose feeling, even after being replaced.

Thanks peeps =)

I have a 91 Loyale with over 260k miles on it. About 5 or 6 years ago, I put in a new clutch and fly wheel. Last year, my car was stolen and was recovered about 6 weeks later. I still haven't figured out how they got the car to start. The dash wasn't ripped up, doesn't look hot wired. I have my keys. When I got the car back, the dashboard 4WD light was engaged and never turned off. It didn't drive like the 4WD was engaged but would make a knocking sound with the front axle at times. This past weekend, my clutch went out and the shop says it'll be like $900 to replace. Is there a logical reason for my clutch to go out so fast? Could it be related to how the car was stolen? I super weirded out with the idea of dropping nearly $1k to replace a clutch when it's gonna go out again because of some underlying cause. Anyone have any thoughts on what to consider or suggest to the mechanic? I'm a bit confused and lost and bummed. I love this car...

That sounds like a good idea! I will check that. Thank you for the suggestion! =)

Hello, Ever since a friend replaced the heater core in my 91 Loyale, my car has developed many gremlins. The current problem is my driver side control panel for the electric windows. I cannot roll down, or up, any of the windows in my car from the main hub. I don't see the fuse in the normal fuse box, so I wasn't sure if there was somewhere else I should look. Or maybe it's just a wire slipped to freedom. I dunno. The other 3 windows do go down n up with their individual relays, but my Master Control Switch hub no longer works, which also means I cannot roll down my own window. How should I trouble shoot this? Thank you!! =)

I have tomorrow off from school, so I'll take a break from studying for my two midterms next week and give this a look. =) I will report back after I have either solved the problem or made things worse! =) Thanks for all of the input thus far though! I am not good with cars and am rather intimidated by them as I really don't want to break things any further. I have no job and no money to replace the car, so I am careful with that I do with it. I really wish my high school offered some kind of mechanics/auto class. I think they should be required for everyone and if I ever have a kid, I'm gonna make sure that they learn about cars before buying one.

will give it a look this weekend! thank you =)

I'm confused (and not mechanically inclined, so that is likely why), but air does blow out. So I want to say that the hose is hooked up, because it blows out when I turn it on. The problem is that it blows out of the wrong place when I switch to "defrost" versus "heater." Both the Heater setting and the Defrost setting make it blow out of the regular heater dash board vents. Could this simply a toggle switch in the dash control panel? Or does this have to do with the hoses that you speak of? I just feel like it would be something different, like a relay switch or something that isn't getting activated or something. I dunno... :/

Hello! I have a 1991 Subaru Loyale with the push button 4WD. This past winter I had my friend replace my heater core as my old one had been dead and bypassed for a couple of years. When I got the car back, while the heat works, when I turn on the Defrost option, the air does not pass through the proper defrost vents near the windshield and instead just comes out of the front of dash vents. I am assuming that when my friend put things back together, he simply fucked that part up. How hard is this to fix? Do I have to take apart the whole dash again? Is it a simple toggle switch I can access easily? Thank you!

so i put in new bulbs and the running lights still don't work. i have checked the fuse and it seems fine too. is there a different fuse than the main one on the dash? i've taken out my stereo and removed the dash underneath the steering wheel. it is a mess of wires. all look clean though and i am not seeing anything noticeable, but that doesn't mean that it isn't there. anyone have any helpful tips or advice on how to solve the tail lights issue? brakes work fine, the bulbs are replaced, and the main fuse is good too. :/

yes, the running tail lights; the brakes work fine. i know the hatch you are referring to and can access three of the lighting clusters. If dual-filament means that it can do both the running lights and the brakes in one bulb, therefore allowing the brakes to still work but the running look out, then i bet you are right. i will try this out tomorrow! thanks!!

this exact thing is happening to my car. i have a standard transmission. in addition to this problem, last night i was flagged down and informed that my tail lights were no longer working as well. my heater core went out last winter and i had a friend bypass the heater core so that i would no longer have a floor covered with coolant. maybe something is loose in the dash that shorted out my tail lights and is messing with my 4WD? i'm a n00b with car repair, but this car was gifted to me, so i am doing my best to learn a bit. i'll check the wiring under the shifter and also check the wiring in the dash tomorrow. does anyone have a wiring guide pdf? also, i bought new tail lights today just in case the tail lights were simply blown (my headlights blew a day apart from each other last winter too), but i can't see how to replace them without removing the entire assembly. the blinker, reverse, and brake lights all have easy twist-to-remove-from-the-inside ports, but the running lights don't seem to have this. am i missing something?